DUB

I take it you are putting on the larger bore throttle bodies...correct? IF SO...then.... NO....the ECM does not need any changes internally. The 'trick' will be is getting the balancing as close as possible due to you can not use a manometer on the larger bore throttle bodies...due to the ported vacuum port is now plugged off....or all that I have installed have been pulled off.

DUB

hugie82

Most people will adjust the pressure regulator to match the injector if there's any idle or drivability issues.

Aldo_45030

Sounds like a challenge i know there is a procedure out there if i get them installed i will give it a shot.
What if you bump up the injectors ecm mods required then?
I have another ecm from a 95 gmc truck 350 i think. If i were to switch to this ecm will the car be able to be driven while i save up funds for all the tuning stuff?

DUB

I believe that some people used a newer ECM...but I can not confirm this...and I have not done it. the processing speed may be faster with anew ECM...but how much faster does it really need to be to make a noticeable difference...versus all the time and money invested.

Going with bigger injectors ...to me...is kinda pointless.....because you are still dealing with 350 cubic inches of motor. Allowing more air in with the larger throttle bodies is fine...but slamming more fuel down the engines throat is another and this is where it can be tricky. It is a balancing act...or you may have smooth idle running issues due to loading up on fuel....but driving it down the street...it is fine.

Then you are still dealing with how good the motor is now in regards to compression and percentage of blow-by, etc.

DUB

Aldo_45030

My thoughts as well, it is a zz4 long block so I know
It's better than original just at what cost.
Guess I just answered myself gosh I hate being cheap and broke...

UOTE=DUB;1587817569]I believe that some people used a newer ECM...but I can not confirm this...and I have not done it. the processing speed may be faster with anew ECM...but how much faster does it really need to be to make a noticeable difference...versus all the time and money invested.

Going with bigger injectors ...to me...is kinda pointless.....because you are still dealing with 350 cubic inches of motor. Allowing more air in with the larger throttle bodies is fine...but slamming more fuel down the engines throat is another and this is where it can be tricky. It is a balancing act...or you may have smooth idle running issues due to loading up on fuel....but driving it down the street...it is fine.

Then you are still dealing with how good the motor is now in regards to compression and percentage of blow-by, etc.

DUB[/QUOTE]

74 LS4-454

It's hard to believe that we are at almost 21,000 views since March 2013.
Many thanks to all that view, and hopefully find the info posted helpful for the 82 CFI.

Don't forget if you have any suggestions or additions, just let me know.
Always trying to add the THREADS that pertain stricky to the 82 & 84 CFI, so that all CFI owners can benefit in one way or another. That particular SECTION has expanded the most. You may want to check that SECTION first before you do a SEARCH to possibly save some time.

It just seems that there are more 82 owners out there now than ever before, with the exception of the actual year 1982.
And that is a good thing....... Tom

Ricky-Bobby

Did you get her running OK? Our 1982 CE would not idle, new fuel pump solved that..........

ESU

For you guys looking into the 85 fuel pump, as stated the crossfire likes a bit more pressure than the stock pump can put out. More pressure equals a better spray pattern at the injectors. Check out Dynamic Crossfire Solutions, they are a listed vendor in the beginnig of this thread. To get the best benefit from this swap you need to do a few things:
1. Rebuild the 2 injector towers. The kits are cheap and its not hard to do, some o-rings, gaskets and washers. If youre going to up the fuel pressure, must make sure the system can handle it.
2. from Dynamic Crossfire pick up 2 things: 1st is a curved tool that enables you to get under the injector tower and actually adjust the fp. However to do this, when you rebuild the towers you must pop the cap that covers adjustment fitting, no big deal. Also pick up their in-line fuel guage, it includes the properly bent tubing and fits between the towers, this way as you bump up the fp you can read exactly how hi you are bringing it, I have mine at 14. The kit even comes with a choice of color fittings, either red or blue anodized.
Complete detailed instructions with photos are available from Dynamic. Also changing out the fuel pump on C3s is a breeze, comes out right through the fill neck spot. Hope this helps.

Drawmain

Just pulled this from the DCS website:

It's unfortunate, but it happens. Nothing is available on the site anymore. As an owner of a Renegade, I'll say go get one if you can, it makes a noticeable difference.

ESU

WOW! That sux, those guys were great, their products were top notch and their work excellent. Used them to re-bush my TBs also. I wonder if they have any stock left? Really wanted a renegade too.

Drawmain

Ecklers and Summit have the Renegade. It's a great intake.

Brack c

Ive tried to do a search but have come up empty. Im going to put headers on my 82 . Do i just need to buy the kit to weld the A.I.R. tubes to it and also weld a fitting for the O2 sensor .....any thing else that i need to know for this project ??

Drawmain

A lot of people will run off the main AIR tube and drill a hole in the collector, and weld in a tube to connect the main AIR tube to, circumventing the small tubes in each header pipe altogether, this is what was suggested by my header manufacturer (Summit brand). If you have to have the AIR tubes as stock, Headman offers headers with the tubes installed in each tube, but they cost more. If you are having a hole drilled for an O2 anyway, why not just get both drilled and a tube welded in the collectors to run the main AIR tubes while you are at it? As long as it is before the O2 you should be fine. I left my O2 in the stock location and used a heated O2 with no issues, I deleted the AIR system, however.

Brack c

Im going with Hookers and side pipes . I imagine its going to be a little tricky . But i like the idea of just one main tube to each side.

Drawmain

I don't know the laws in your area, but if you are going with Hooker sidepipes, why not just eliminate the AIR system altogether? It won't throw codes or decrease performance, and you wouldn't have to worry about welding tubes of any kind into your headers, just one O2 sensor bung into the passenger side collector.

Aldo_45030

if i were to bore some spare bodies out can someone advise me as to what tolerance the bore will need to be for proper butterfly plate fit?

My plan at this point is to measure the current bores and plates and use the same relationship move up in size. I figured i would ask anyway just in case there is something i am missing.

Lakeside49

I am just adding this to our `82 Sticky for posterity. It took some searching to find. Enjoy!

http://testdrivejunkie.com/1982-chev...te-test-drive/

Also, if you haven't already seen this walk-around by a master salesperson, you'll enjoy:



Dave

shok

Thanks I enjoyed both videos. We've come very far when it comes to 1/4 mile times, they were happy with it running a 16 which for some reason surprised me a bit. I guess if a prior model was two secs slower then they should be happy.

Brack c

OK guys , tried searching here till my eyes got crossed .
I just picked up a set of Hooker Super Comp headers / sidepipes and will be putting them on my 82 . My question is where exactly do I need to / where do most people weld the bung / coupling for the O2 sensor ?

Thanks in advance ,
Brack

bartrek

Does anyone know where I can get the curved tool or something similar that enables you to get under the injector tower and actually adjust the fuel pressure like the one Dynamic Crossfire Solutions used to sell?

I changed to the '85 fuel pump, changed the fuel filter and added a FP gauge between the TBs.

How do I get the new pump to run more than 2 seconds after I turn the key on - to get fuel back through the lines & to the TBs?