ESU

I agree, your fortunate its throwing a code, start with that. However, you seem to have a no spark and a no fuel issue if I read it correct? Start with codes, then pick fuel or spark and move forward from there. If its the fuel pump remember to replace with an 85 pump for a little more psi.

ESU

Looking to replace the end links and also the sway bar bushings. Anyone know the size /diameter of the front bar? I do not have a rear bar.

Drawmain

Front bar on mine is 1.125"

ESU

thank you, do you have a rear bar?

Drawmain

No rear bar on mine, sorry.

dseales

I have spark. It will start if you spray carb cleaner in the throttle bodies. It has at least 10psi at the first throttle body. It didn't show any codes when I read them. I have 12 volts to the hot side of the injectors, but they will not spray. The fuel pump is priming for 2 sec but no fuel at injectors.

corvettenorway

pull the injectors and change the small filters !

74 LS4-454

Doing some restructure on the "sticky", will take me a little while, hopefully the results will be easier to understand.
Thanks.....Tom

nashville68bird

SSRoadster, I just noticed a comment you had here that could explain all my engine starting issues. The original -700 transmission failed on me a few months ago at 80K miles. I took it to a local shop that does very good work on transmissions, though they had no experience working on a 1982 Collector. Instead of rebuilding the original -700, I agreed to allow him to replace it with a refurbed TB350. That transmission only lasted three or four drives before failing. He took it back and "repaired and tweaked it". As I drove it home from the shop the distributor cap and rotor failed (broke in to pieces) and hasn't run since. Could it be that the TB350 transmission is completely incompatible with the Crossfire and original ECM?

ESU

Not too sure about compatibility but exchanging a 4 speed tranny for a 3 speed tranny doesn't seem like a good move. ECM was simple on the 82s but may have had a transmission function although I don't see how a transmission could affect the dist cap and rotor? Find someone who can work on 700r4s, ask around on this forum, someone might have a guy near you or look into Bow Tie Overdrives.

nashville68bird

SSRoadster mentioned in his Crossfire Sticky: "The 700R4 has a torque converter lock-up solenoid. When these go bad the symptoms are the same as a flaw in the ignition or fuel delivery. The idle can be rough and the car could be almost impossible to drive. The ECM does not show a code until it fails completely." If the tranny was replaced with a TB350, how could the repairman hook up the Lock-Up Solenoid?

74 LS4-454

IMO, what type of experience does the trans shop need on an 82 Collector???
Any good trans shop should be able to rebuild the 700r4, as they were used for quite a few years before the 4L60E & 4L80E replaced that trans. I would have found a different shop. But that is my opinion.

I wouldn't say that the TH350 is incompatible with the CFI, as the TC is controlled by the ECM, not the trans itself. You need to consult another trans shop or one of the many known trans rebuilders around the country for the correct advice with your swap.

About your distributor cap and rotor falling into pieces, that has nothing to do with the trans swap. More than likely it has to do with wear and tear due to old age, or very inferior parts, etc....
I would replace your distributor parts, and also pull the ignition module while you are in there....you can have the module tested at your local auto store if you like. Upon reinstallation of the module, refer to the "sticky" and make sure you clean the existing area and coat the bottom of the module with the thermal compound before installing.
Buy a good quality cap and rotor and make sure to check all of the distributor wires in and around the distributor to make sure you have good secure connections. Also make sure you check your coil wires, as the stock coil wires are very thin and they can break very easily and leave you stranded...(ask me how I know....).
Remember engines vibrate and vibration may cause attachments and connections to vibrate loose and cause a short down the road. That is why it is always good to perform PM's on a periotic basis to make sure everything remains secure.

Take your time, follow the "sticky" and you should be restarted in no time......
Another thought, if you don't know or haven't done a complete tune-up over the years, now would be a good time to replace the spark plugs, spark plug wires if needed, fuel filter, etc....
Keep us posted, you will be back on the road soon.....

Tom

ESU

Anyone ever look into the Renegade manifold designed by the guys over at the Crossfire forum? I followed the progress for a while but when released even though the hp increase was pretty good, something in the neighborhood of 30 rwhp, the price was excessive IMO. Anyway, had it save on my watchlist in EBAY for a while hoping to maybe squirrel away a few extra bux or a good sale but $550 was still way too much. Now I noticed they jumped to $675 ( Summit Racing), Holy crap,,,, guess I'll never know now how my 82 would have liked it,,,,,,

GUSTO14

Corvette Renegade Performance Intake Manifold, Crossfire Injection, 1982 & 1984
Part #25-324816-1
Sale Price: $517.74 ea

image courtesy of Eckler's Corvette
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...-and-1984.html

Good luck... GUSTO

K.Redliner

Installed a Renegade intake on my 82 last year. Seat of pants dyno thinks it added some power. Can say that it will now rev up past 4500 easier, found that out the first time I laid into it after installation. The engine has 117000 miles on it so I don't really push the crap out of it. When you look at the size of the intake ports compared to the stock one, the Renegade will help it breath better.

Buccaneer

Hey Guys, someone posted in another thread that they waited until black Friday at Eckler's and received 20% off, which would be a good deal IMO. Maybe wait for that sale if you really want a manifold.

Redliner, thank you for your support. Put it on a dyno and see the results. 30hp is the average gain to the rear wheels, some had a few less and some a few more. It's all about the repair of the motor and how you have it setup to optimize the output. You should really feel it in mid and high end. Good luck.

K.Redliner

Your welcome. You guys did the bushings for me years ago. Bought the manifold and did the upgrade when I quit taking it to AACA shows in the DPC class. Between getting the fuel pressure up with the pump upgrade and now the manifold, it is a whole different car. The first time that it actually wanted to rev beyond 4500 showed that it was worth the work. Someday will be heads and a roller cam, but that is when I rebuild it.

ESU

BUccaneer, you guys did my bushings also,,,, Ive tried to get the big discounts but no matter whats offered on the Renegade when you punch in the code a message pops up that on this item they only give 10%.

ESU

My 82 has always had a high idle and a long idle issue ever since I bought it. Start it up and it revs at like 1500-1800 for several minutes. Way back when I changed a temp sensor on the manifold hoping it would read better and it only slightly improved. The last few days I have been working on a project to re-install the original Delco ETR radio. When I first bought the car it had an aftermarket radio but the guy gave me the original. I just sent it out to be rebuilt and also had an aux jack installed. Anyway after finally getting that done this week I noticed it is taking forever if ever to idle down even though the temps here are in the 90s. Now, just to mention, I blew the gauge fuse during the radio work and had to replace it. I thought maybe I blew the ecm fuse also but checked that today and that was fine. I really don't want to rebalance the throttle bodies again,,,, any thoughts?

MattsC3

My 82 idle about 1500 rom until temp gauge reads about 100degrees. Then it drops to about 900-1000 until completely warmed up then its right at 600 rpm. The only time mine has ever seen 1800 rpm cold is right after I replaced the IAC motors in the throttle bodies. I would start with them. I would replace and clean the seats in the TB. Rock auto has delco IAC cheapest I could find in a pair. Mine was slow coming to Idle at a stop. Its drops right down now. I would also check your Throttle position sensor voltage. Should be 5.25 volts. If I remember correctly. (its in the thread
here somewhere) At the very least pull the IAC on both TB's and clean them to see what happens. After you clean or replace you will need to let the ecm relearn. Drive over 40 mph for a min. of 10 minutes. Best of luck.