Should I purchase\ install a 327 suggestions?
03-18-2013, 01:48 PM
#1
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Should I purchase\ install a 327 suggestions?
I have a 1979 that might get a 327 installed, here are the following specs about the engine. This is one 1969(69) 327 motor with a 2 bolt main, has Aluminum Edelbrock Performer Intake, Chrome valve covers, Aluminum GM Performance Heads with 57 CC chamber, new cam with 480 lift, 230 duration, 10:1 flat top piston, All new seals, bearings, oil Here are the numbers on the back of the block:
12
GM
3956618
B269
386
371
H35
Front of motor: V0306FC
So what do you guys think the hp numbers are looking for around 375-400 should I purchase the block?
12
GM
3956618
B269
386
371
H35
Front of motor: V0306FC
So what do you guys think the hp numbers are looking for around 375-400 should I purchase the block?
03-18-2013, 03:49 PM
#2
Is that duration advertised or at .050? I dont think you will see those numbers.
03-18-2013, 04:46 PM
#6
03-18-2013, 04:52 PM
#7
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yes i have but am looking for something under 1500 i have found a couple local like a 355 and a forged 406 but jeggs and summit racing have good deals but are a little out of my price range.
03-18-2013, 05:55 PM
#8
Race Director
Everybody wants 400 HP for $1500. Reality is you get 200 HP for $1500. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet. This has a 36 month 100,000 mile warrantee.
I will say it again Cheap, Durable, Fast. Pick 2.
I will say it again Cheap, Durable, Fast. Pick 2.
03-18-2013, 06:59 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
03-18-2013, 11:00 PM
#11
If you really want that much power, it would be easier (and more "streetable") with a larger engine. You would really have to wind a 327 pretty tight to do that. Or supercharge it.
What's your budget?
Speed costs money. How fast do you wanna go?
What's your budget?
Speed costs money. How fast do you wanna go?
03-19-2013, 05:25 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
I would like to add that I do not know what Heads are on the Engine but if they are good heads and you can get a screaming deal on it with the heads then you can use the heads on another build and either sell the short block to recoup some funds or keep it as a last ditch engine if you should need one.
Now saying that the Small Displacement Engines can be built well but they need to Rev to do that. Many years ago that was Ok as there was Gas at the pump that would allow one to run up to 12.0 Compression and spin them to 85OO or so RPM. But those days of 100 Plus Octain fuel is Long Gone. Now all we have is Junk Gas. But if your pocket can handle it you can run Alcohol.
So due to these reasons Cubic Inches is the way to go. And not nearly as expensive as you might think. So if you are going to build a motor I would highly recommend building a 377 or a 383. Great TQ and HP and very streetable depending like everything else on how you set it up.
Heck just awhile back I had to rebuild my Suburban Engine and after it was tore down the crank like normal needed to be turned but to do so is not cheap like it was in the past. So I looked at crank kits and for the heck of it I looked at some of the cranks used for a 383 and guess what there was only about a $70.00 difference in price. Same with some good Rods of which was only about $50.00 or so more. Plus the cost of a 400 Flex plate. I used a 350 Balancer. The deal on the 350 Balancer is I would rather modify it and balance the rotating assembly due to less weight on the nose of the crank shaft. But that is just my deal lol. So in the end it only cost me about $200.00 or so more to build a 383 than it would have cost me to build a 350CI.
Many people do not realize just how good they have it now as far as Engine builds and prices. Yes many things have gone way up but also some things have gone down due to being mass produced.
When I read years ago of Stroker Crank Shafts being produced it simply amazed me. As in those days if you wished to stroke an engine you would have to weld up the journals the amount needed and then grind it at the desired offset for the stoke you wish to have but there were limits on doing so as you still had to worry about the oil passages in the crank shaft. And to Balance the crank shaft was another time using ordeal of using Mallory Metal to do so. Doing this was very labor intensive. Not to even mention the work that had to be done on heads to make them flow decent numbers where as now you can purchase heads right out of the box that would have equaled some of the best heads back then or even better with O work.
Back in 1995 I helped with this little 705 CI BBC of which was brand new and Ground Breaking at the time. My job was fitting the Rotating assembly and correct push rod length to achieve correct rocker arm geometry of which the push rods had to be scratch built as nobody made push rods even close to the right length which were very long due to the extremely high deck. And it is street driven. But ran 219MPH at the Salt Flats with A/C On. http://www.vintageair.com/video_choices.htm
Now saying that the Small Displacement Engines can be built well but they need to Rev to do that. Many years ago that was Ok as there was Gas at the pump that would allow one to run up to 12.0 Compression and spin them to 85OO or so RPM. But those days of 100 Plus Octain fuel is Long Gone. Now all we have is Junk Gas. But if your pocket can handle it you can run Alcohol.
So due to these reasons Cubic Inches is the way to go. And not nearly as expensive as you might think. So if you are going to build a motor I would highly recommend building a 377 or a 383. Great TQ and HP and very streetable depending like everything else on how you set it up.
Heck just awhile back I had to rebuild my Suburban Engine and after it was tore down the crank like normal needed to be turned but to do so is not cheap like it was in the past. So I looked at crank kits and for the heck of it I looked at some of the cranks used for a 383 and guess what there was only about a $70.00 difference in price. Same with some good Rods of which was only about $50.00 or so more. Plus the cost of a 400 Flex plate. I used a 350 Balancer. The deal on the 350 Balancer is I would rather modify it and balance the rotating assembly due to less weight on the nose of the crank shaft. But that is just my deal lol. So in the end it only cost me about $200.00 or so more to build a 383 than it would have cost me to build a 350CI.
Many people do not realize just how good they have it now as far as Engine builds and prices. Yes many things have gone way up but also some things have gone down due to being mass produced.
When I read years ago of Stroker Crank Shafts being produced it simply amazed me. As in those days if you wished to stroke an engine you would have to weld up the journals the amount needed and then grind it at the desired offset for the stoke you wish to have but there were limits on doing so as you still had to worry about the oil passages in the crank shaft. And to Balance the crank shaft was another time using ordeal of using Mallory Metal to do so. Doing this was very labor intensive. Not to even mention the work that had to be done on heads to make them flow decent numbers where as now you can purchase heads right out of the box that would have equaled some of the best heads back then or even better with O work.
Back in 1995 I helped with this little 705 CI BBC of which was brand new and Ground Breaking at the time. My job was fitting the Rotating assembly and correct push rod length to achieve correct rocker arm geometry of which the push rods had to be scratch built as nobody made push rods even close to the right length which were very long due to the extremely high deck. And it is street driven. But ran 219MPH at the Salt Flats with A/C On.
http://www.vintageair.com/video_choices.htm
Last edited by SHAKERATTLEROLL; 03-19-2013 at 05:42 AM.