Front end rebuild for 1975 Vette
#1
Front end rebuild for 1975 Vette
I just ordered a rebuild kit from Full Throttle Corvette. Not really looking forward to doing this but the steering is loose and the tires are wearing badly on the outer edge - the driver side tire looks like a slick on the outside edge about going about 2 inches in. Totally ruined the front tires (when I got the car the tires were good but the guy never drove the car, I drive it every day). What I am looking for is any advice to proceed with this rebuild to make it go as smoothly as possible. Any links to articles or photos would be appreciated. Never have done this before but I'm sure removing parts that have probably been on here since 1975 is not going to be fun. Here is a link to what I am buying: http://www.fullthrottlecorvette.com/...it_p_1547.html
it includes
Our 1963 - 1982 Corvette Complete Front Suspension Rebuild Kit Includes The Following:
Upper and Lower Ball Joints with Hardware
Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends with Hardware
Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings
Sway Bar End Link Kit
Idler Arm with Hardware
Upper and Lower Control Arm Bumpers
Tie Rod Tubes
Once again, any suggestions or ideas to make this go smoothly would be appreciated.
it includes
Our 1963 - 1982 Corvette Complete Front Suspension Rebuild Kit Includes The Following:
Upper and Lower Ball Joints with Hardware
Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends with Hardware
Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings
Sway Bar End Link Kit
Idler Arm with Hardware
Upper and Lower Control Arm Bumpers
Tie Rod Tubes
Once again, any suggestions or ideas to make this go smoothly would be appreciated.
#2
Burning Brakes
I just got done with the front of my 82. You did right with the new tie rod tubes. Mine were trashed. No special tools needed to remove the parts. It is way easier with the radiator shroud removed. Also I had to loosen the power steering pump to vet at the drivers rear lower control arm bolt. To remove springs, use the jack method and pop the upper joint before lowering it. Google it or watch it on YouTube. To put them back I used the spring compressor through the upper shock hole and a ratchet strap to pull the spring into the lower control arm. A bit scary, but take your time and triple check. I only used a pickle fork on the idler arm and inner tie rods. They can be hard to hit at. The rest of the joints will pop off with a few good whacks on the spindle next to them. You will want to use a bushing press. Its a clamp device that makes the bushing install simple. Getting old bushings out is quite a chore. I used an air chisel and it still was not easy. Start soaking your bolts now and it will be easier. Good luck!
#4
Melting Slicks
if you've ever done a GM front suspension - this is just like every single one of those.
A couple things:
1) check the steering box for play - if it has too much, watch the willcox video on adjusting it and follow their instructions.
2) replace the rag joint at minimum, put a borgeson joint in instead for better road feel and control
3) get the upper a-arm brace that ties the upper control arms together
4) consider new springs as well, they're really cheap and are a wear item (50 bucks a pair cheap from Summit)
5) consider new shocks as well - a lot of times tires would have been saved if the shocks were replaced
okay, so that's 5 couple suggestions - I subscribe to the Douglas Adams 5 book trilogy so I'm a bit off to begin with
A couple things:
1) check the steering box for play - if it has too much, watch the willcox video on adjusting it and follow their instructions.
2) replace the rag joint at minimum, put a borgeson joint in instead for better road feel and control
3) get the upper a-arm brace that ties the upper control arms together
4) consider new springs as well, they're really cheap and are a wear item (50 bucks a pair cheap from Summit)
5) consider new shocks as well - a lot of times tires would have been saved if the shocks were replaced
okay, so that's 5 couple suggestions - I subscribe to the Douglas Adams 5 book trilogy so I'm a bit off to begin with
#5
I actually put new shocks on it a few weeks back, which seem to make it worse instead of better. The shocks on the front were bad, the ones on the back merely resembled shocks but were completely shot. This car has suffered from a lot of neglect, surprisingly runs really well (after fixing several vacuum leaks and getting new plugs and wires/cap). Trying to take one thing at a time, should be done in about 5 years.
Will check into that steering box.
Will check into that steering box.
#6
Melting Slicks
the worst part about doing a front end rebuild is the trailing arm bushings.
once you finish the front, you'll really notice how bad the rear bushings are... then you'll replace them too
and honestly, that's the point I'd probably stop for a DD. I'd leave the stock control arm alone (replace the rubber, maybe if they're toast), the rear joints, the rear diff (unless there's more than 1/8" of movement in and out from the differential)
you will be blown away by how good the car drives when you're done.... totally worth it IMO
once you finish the front, you'll really notice how bad the rear bushings are... then you'll replace them too
and honestly, that's the point I'd probably stop for a DD. I'd leave the stock control arm alone (replace the rubber, maybe if they're toast), the rear joints, the rear diff (unless there's more than 1/8" of movement in and out from the differential)
you will be blown away by how good the car drives when you're done.... totally worth it IMO