bruisedknuckles

Hello, I'm about to install a new ignition switch. 1977 Automatic Transmission w/Tilt. Dropped the steering column, removed dimmer and ignition switch. Followed Jim Shea's paper, but a couple of things I don't understand and was hoping someone could help clear up.

1. "In order to correctly install the ignition switch it is necessary for you to place the column lock cylinder in the Off Unlock position."

I assume you do this by placing the key in the ignition (battery disconnected) and moving it all the way counter clockwise? (Ignition switch is removed at this point)

2. My new ignition switch says the lock cylinder needs to be in the accessory position, now I'm not sure if it should be in the accessory or off unlock position.

Thanks all.

DUB

The AC/delco ignition switches I install have a green pin in them. This pin is centering the switch...so when I install it back onto the column..WITH THE KEY OUT OF THE COLUMN...it is correctly positioned. The I connect power and check to see if I need to make any fine adjustments...ONCE I REMOVE the green pin.

If your switch does NOT have a pin in to to center it. You can install it like they said...then check it.

OR...

You can slide the switch back and forth using a small screwdriver...to simulate the action of the bent rod that moves the switch and feel it out...so to speak. Slide the switch back and forth and you will feel and can determine the "clicks" in the switch and the direction it is going due to when you manually move it by hand and find the CRANK area of the switch...it will be under slight tension and spring loaded...so when you reduce effort...the switch will come back on its own. JUST LIKE when you turn your key to CRANK...it comes back on its own. On the opposite end ( all the way) is accessory...and ONE click back is OFF....and the position when the key is removed from the column.

DUB

Jim Shea

With your 1977 steering column you have a release lever next to your ignition key and lock cylinder that you must trip in order to be able to rotate your key from OFF to the OFF-LOCK postion. This is the set-point for the steering column. So rotate your ignition key from RUN to OFF. DO NOT TRIP the release lever. Your ignition key will stop and your steering column is now in the OFF position.

You now want the ignition switch in that same OFF position. Use a small dowl or pin to move the slider in the ignition switch through its full travel. You will feel detents as you move the slider. At one extreme you will feel a spring return. This will be the START position with the spring trying to move the slider to the RUN position. Go to the other extreme. That would be ACCESSORY. Now move from the ACCESSORY detent to the OFF-LOCK detent and one more detent to the OFF position. You now have both the steering column and the ignition switch in the OFF positions.

Carefully attach the ignition switch to the ignition rod and attach the switch to the column jacket. Push lightly down on the switch to just take the slack out of the system. Tighten the studs to lock your switch in place. Your ignition switch and your steering column are now both synchronized at the OFF position.

Jim

bruisedknuckles

Thanks Dub & Jim,

Installed the new switch, still have no ignition. I am thoroughly lost and don't know where to look any more, engine just won't turn over.

Brand new starter, new battery, cables look good, cleaned ground connections (starter to frame, battery to frame), have a little over 12V going to the starter.

Interestingly enough, before I changed the ignition switch, everytime I tried to start the car, I could here the starter click and then all panels and instruments would go dead.

After I installed the new switch, there is absolutely no click but the instrument are powered.

Is there a slight chance that it was in fact the ignition switch and it has not been adjusted properly? The accessory, off, on positions all work correctly and the I feel the spring back when I try to start the car.

Any help would be appreciated.

Best,

-D

my 76 ray

It sounds to me like the ignition swich isn't adjusted properly OR maybe the neutral safety switch isn't allowing current to pass to the solenoid. Make sure the shift lever is in Park.

Sorry to tell you this but it sounds like your ignition switch was working the whole time. When you turn the ignition to START it cuts power to everything that isn't necessary so it can give all the power to the starter. The solenoid clicks when there is power going to the starter but not enough amps to turn it.

Sometimes new batteries are bad. You also could have internally corroded battery cables or corrosion on the inside of the battery terminals.

L71Ragtop

I'm going through the same on my 69...
I had to longate the mounting holes in the switch to get the ignition to pull far enough to work

bruisedknuckles

L71, going to adjust the switch this weekend, hopefully that does it.

@my 76 - understand that power is cut to everything that's not necessary, but the interesting thing here is that once the ignition springs out of the start position, there is no power at all.

my 76 ray

It might be springing back some but not enough to get into the RUN position.

bruisedknuckles

OK, so I adjusted the ignition switch. Started up fine. Kept it idling for about 15 minutes. Shut it down and tested it about 4-5 times with no issues. (Wipers will not go off!).

Then took it around the block, 2 minute drive, stopped it and it died again, no start since!

Jim Shea

This may not be of any help as to your problem but I just want to be clear on the subject of synchronizing your steering column to the ignition switch. The gate in the steering column was designed as the point between the IGNITION OFF and THE IGNITION OFF & THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED positions. The ignition switch has a detent designed into it that also seperates the IGNITION OFF position from the IGN OFF & STRG WHEEL LOCKED position. You want to place the steering column and the ignition switch in those same positions when installing the ignition switch.

I am not saying that placing the ignition switch and the steering column both in the ACCESSORY positions and then tightening the switch in place won't get the job done. However, the place between OFF and OFF-LOCK was where they were designed to be synchronized.
Jim