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Old 04-22-2013, 09:46 AM
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Planbmatt1
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Default turbo kit help

Well after making her mechanically perfect i decided I want to turbo my 76 stingray. It has an l42 with a 3 speed automatic. Now Ive done a turbo kit install on my vr6 jetta but I'm sure this is going to be totally different. I will be only puting out 6 pounds of boost. So my questions are what am I going to have to replace with running this boost level?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Race-...beacaf&vxp=mtr

that is the kit. Now before you flame on ebay stuff first ebay does not make parts so saying ebay kits suck is wrong. I bought my vr6 turbo kit from a company on ebay and everything is perfect still. So after seeing that what should I replace in this kit besides turbo and what is missing to work on carb set up. Never did a carb turbo install. Thanks
Old 04-22-2013, 10:14 AM
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SuperBuickGuy
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at 6 psi? not a lot needs to be change beside adding some kind of ignition retard tied to boost level. The biggest issues always will be cast pistons and lack of ARP bolts on the rods - but you can safely run that level as long as you are hyper-vigilant about eliminating pinging

Of course, it brings up another question.... where are you planning on putting the turbo and the intercooler.... honestly, I've been looking in my engine compartment for a space for such fun stuff and haven't come up with a solution

hmmmm.... in reading the description.... it's missing several things. How does it suggest connecting to your exhaust? I don't see any flanges for running from the cross-over to the turbo (I presume that's what they expect you to do, run a pipe from your cross-over to the turbo). Why does it need a fuel-pressure regulator? your motor is carb'd and you need a carb hat or carb box to connect the supply into the motor.

also - running a carb with a turbo is PITA, it can be done, but it requires doctorate level of tuning ability to get it to run right. With your Jetta build, they simply turned up the pressure to allow more fuel. With a carb, that doesn't work - you need to change the jetting, etc to get it to work..... all of which is why people tend to use blowers under carbs on C3s

that said.... do a lot of research before you pull the trigger - that 700 kit could easily become a 5000 kit with upgrades and such (especially if you go with fuel injection - which IMO would be the first step to turbo-charging your 'vette).

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 04-22-2013 at 10:21 AM.
Old 04-22-2013, 10:25 AM
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Planbmatt1
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i figured tuning wouldn't be such a big deal at 6 psi of boost. It just something for fun and to enjoy. And at 6 psi heat is not a restrictor so i would not use ic. So if i bought that kit and this http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-Hybrid...090627&vxp=mtr

i would have an extra turbo as back up. Also have the down pipe and flange. Would i then be set? or do carb engines take anything weird. Just wondering cause when i turbo ed my vr6. Every kit came with a bov but it would go extremely rich with a bov cause it was a maf. So you had to reroute the bov or get a dv.

Last edited by Planbmatt1; 04-22-2013 at 10:56 AM.
Old 04-22-2013, 10:55 AM
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cv67
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Run a single
Old 04-22-2013, 10:58 AM
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Planbmatt1
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Run a single
ok so what's your opinion about if that would be all the parts I need for this setup up single at 6psi. Thanks
Old 04-22-2013, 01:00 PM
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SuperBuickGuy
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
i figured tuning wouldn't be such a big deal at 6 psi of boost. It just something for fun and to enjoy. And at 6 psi heat is not a restrictor so i would not use ic. So if i bought that kit and this http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-Hybrid...090627&vxp=mtr

i would have an extra turbo as back up. Also have the down pipe and flange. Would i then be set? or do carb engines take anything weird. Just wondering cause when i turbo ed my vr6. Every kit came with a bov but it would go extremely rich with a bov cause it was a maf. So you had to reroute the bov or get a dv.
I have two those turbos sitting on a shelf waiting for a home... it's a lot of typing to detail how to set up a carb for any kind of blow-through boost - the biggest issue is this; the float and the needle valve rely on atmospheric pressure to properly open and close, at 6 psi, you're putting 6 lbs of air on top of the float - not to mention the leaks you'll create through the throttle shaft (vacuum leaks) which make tuning a nightmare.

I had heat problems at 5 psi on one of my cars - but still, it's something you can deal with by retarding time. Of course, the more timing you pull out, the less hp you make.

That said, with a turbo - or any boosted car, you can use nitrous oxide to cool the charge at specific boost pressures - so you don't absolutely have to have an intercooler in front of the radiator.

And that turbo would be marginal at 350 cubic inches, the exhaust inlet is tiny (like 1 3/4") going up to a t3/t4 hybrid would be better. To give you an idea of how tiny.... I have two of them on the CTS V-6 in my fiat spider (238 ci)
Old 04-22-2013, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
I have two those turbos sitting on a shelf waiting for a home... it's a lot of typing to detail how to set up a carb for any kind of blow-through boost - the biggest issue is this; the float and the needle valve rely on atmospheric pressure to properly open and close, at 6 psi, you're putting 6 lbs of air on top of the float - not to mention the leaks you'll create through the throttle shaft (vacuum leaks) which make tuning a nightmare.

I had heat problems at 5 psi on one of my cars - but still, it's something you can deal with by retarding time. Of course, the more timing you pull out, the less hp you make.

That said, with a turbo - or any boosted car, you can use nitrous oxide to cool the charge at specific boost pressures - so you don't absolutely have to have an intercooler in front of the radiator.

And that turbo would be marginal at 350 cubic inches, the exhaust inlet is tiny (like 1 3/4") going up to a t3/t4 hybrid would be better. To give you an idea of how tiny.... I have two of them on the CTS V-6 in my fiat spider (238 ci)
So would a blow through carb be easier to tune for the boost?

also what do you men by 1 3/4 inlet. Im seeing that its a 2" inlet and 2.5" inlet on downpipe. And it is a t3/t4 hybrid. Am i missing something?
Old 04-22-2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
the float and the needle valve rely on atmospheric pressure to properly open and close, at 6 psi,
Actually no. The float couldn't care less how much atmospheric pressure is on top. It cares only about liquid level. Whether there is flow or not when the valve is open depends on the differential in pressure between the bowl and the fuel pump output. This could easily be overcome by adding a high pressure pump, but this would induce all sorts of side problems.

My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
Old 04-22-2013, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Actually no. The float couldn't care less how much atmospheric pressure is on top. It cares only about liquid level. Whether there is flow or not when the valve is open depends on the differential in pressure between the bowl and the fuel pump output. This could easily be overcome by adding a high pressure pump, but this would induce all sorts of side problems.

My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
what would you suggest? If i say for rough wanted 250-300hp just enough to give a good jerk when cruising around.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Actually no. The float couldn't care less how much atmospheric pressure is on top. It cares only about liquid level. Whether there is flow or not when the valve is open depends on the differential in pressure between the bowl and the fuel pump output. This could easily be overcome by adding a high pressure pump, but this would induce all sorts of side problems.

My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
you're wrong... try again

air pressure keeps the float down (pulling the needle off the seat) - thus keeping the fluid flowing when it should be shut off
Old 04-22-2013, 02:07 PM
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what happened to you just driving it and having your VW if you want to go fast?

anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.

You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html

P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage

Last edited by qwank; 04-22-2013 at 02:09 PM.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:09 PM
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A pressure regulator with a boost port is needed to maintain your 5-6 psi of fuel pressure and the as the boost starts building the regulator will allow 1 lbs of fuel pressure to every 1lbs of boost pressure.
A blow tru carb I think would avoid most of your issues with leaks, tuning and drivability but you're looking at @$500+ for most blow tru carbs!
Old 04-22-2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
what happened to you just driving it and having your VW if you want to go fast?

anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.

You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html

P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
well what happened is that saturday night. I did some races. On the 3rd pass i ending up having a knocking noise which i found out is the timing chains and stripped the speedo gear in tranny so moved rev limiter to 5200. Which means i wont race it anymore. Ill drive it till its done and buy a 4 banger with 30+mpg. Ill want a little kick with the vette. I think what made that happened it i was boosting a dd. Not smartest. But now I have 2 cars.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:15 PM
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Planbmatt1
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Originally Posted by qwank
what happened to you just driving it and having your VW if you want to go fast?

anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.

You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html

P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
I was gonna swap a 350 small block that was rated at 330hp. Whats the difference in the zz4? Which it basically drop in and fit factory mounts etc. Or what else will I need to buy. Thanks!
Old 04-22-2013, 02:19 PM
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The ZZ4 has a forged crank, a roller cam and aluminum heads.

Nothing wrong with boosting a DD, I'm driving a boosted Cavalier to work everyday

Last edited by qwank; 04-22-2013 at 02:22 PM.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
The ZZ4 has forged internals, a roller cam and aluminum heads.

Nothing wrong with boosting a DD, I'm driving a boosted Cavalier to work everyday
haha depends on the driver i use boost way to much for 60 minutes of driving everyday. So with the zz4. Will it just drop in and i can use the distributor, air filter, water pump, and pulleys from stock engine?

also an 11 second honda civic hatchback blew something bad that night too. So i didnt feel awful. Also it was no ricer. He had a plain paint job no stickers just fast as hell lol.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:23 PM
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most smallblock GM crate engines will just bolt right in

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Old 04-22-2013, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
haha depends on the driver So with the zz4. Will it just drop in and i can use the distributor, air filter, water pump, and pulleys from stock engine?
yes. theres also a version of the engine that comes with an intake, distributor, carb, water pump etc. that would probably be better for you. you can't use the water pump though, the corvette one is different
Old 04-22-2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
most smallblock GM crate engines will just bolt right in
Alright sweet. Great to hear. Engine swap would be much less of a headache then a turbo. I have never pulled an engine before. Do you guys recommend a book to read about swapping out small blocks or even how to pull one?
Old 04-22-2013, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
yes. theres also a version of the engine that comes with an intake, distributor, carb, water pump etc. that would probably be better for you. you can't use the water pump though, the corvette one is different
so your saying if i ordered the complete version of the zz4 then i cant use the water pump it comes with, I would have to use one off old engine?

Edit: Ok i see it comes with a long water pump and i would need to get a short one. Got that figured out.

Basically all i need now is something to teach me how to swap an engine. I really want to do it on my own. I have 2 cars. It could take me a month to do the swap for all I care. I just want to do it incase anything breaks I know how to fix it, and so when i pop my hood I can say I did this **** myself :P I would also get an engine crane so I can pull it myself.

Last edited by Planbmatt1; 04-22-2013 at 02:53 PM.


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