turbo kit help
#1
turbo kit help
Well after making her mechanically perfect i decided I want to turbo my 76 stingray. It has an l42 with a 3 speed automatic. Now Ive done a turbo kit install on my vr6 jetta but I'm sure this is going to be totally different. I will be only puting out 6 pounds of boost. So my questions are what am I going to have to replace with running this boost level?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Race-...beacaf&vxp=mtr
that is the kit. Now before you flame on ebay stuff first ebay does not make parts so saying ebay kits suck is wrong. I bought my vr6 turbo kit from a company on ebay and everything is perfect still. So after seeing that what should I replace in this kit besides turbo and what is missing to work on carb set up. Never did a carb turbo install. Thanks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Race-...beacaf&vxp=mtr
that is the kit. Now before you flame on ebay stuff first ebay does not make parts so saying ebay kits suck is wrong. I bought my vr6 turbo kit from a company on ebay and everything is perfect still. So after seeing that what should I replace in this kit besides turbo and what is missing to work on carb set up. Never did a carb turbo install. Thanks
#2
Melting Slicks
at 6 psi? not a lot needs to be change beside adding some kind of ignition retard tied to boost level. The biggest issues always will be cast pistons and lack of ARP bolts on the rods - but you can safely run that level as long as you are hyper-vigilant about eliminating pinging
Of course, it brings up another question.... where are you planning on putting the turbo and the intercooler.... honestly, I've been looking in my engine compartment for a space for such fun stuff and haven't come up with a solution
hmmmm.... in reading the description.... it's missing several things. How does it suggest connecting to your exhaust? I don't see any flanges for running from the cross-over to the turbo (I presume that's what they expect you to do, run a pipe from your cross-over to the turbo). Why does it need a fuel-pressure regulator? your motor is carb'd and you need a carb hat or carb box to connect the supply into the motor.
also - running a carb with a turbo is PITA, it can be done, but it requires doctorate level of tuning ability to get it to run right. With your Jetta build, they simply turned up the pressure to allow more fuel. With a carb, that doesn't work - you need to change the jetting, etc to get it to work..... all of which is why people tend to use blowers under carbs on C3s
that said.... do a lot of research before you pull the trigger - that 700 kit could easily become a 5000 kit with upgrades and such (especially if you go with fuel injection - which IMO would be the first step to turbo-charging your 'vette).
Of course, it brings up another question.... where are you planning on putting the turbo and the intercooler.... honestly, I've been looking in my engine compartment for a space for such fun stuff and haven't come up with a solution
hmmmm.... in reading the description.... it's missing several things. How does it suggest connecting to your exhaust? I don't see any flanges for running from the cross-over to the turbo (I presume that's what they expect you to do, run a pipe from your cross-over to the turbo). Why does it need a fuel-pressure regulator? your motor is carb'd and you need a carb hat or carb box to connect the supply into the motor.
also - running a carb with a turbo is PITA, it can be done, but it requires doctorate level of tuning ability to get it to run right. With your Jetta build, they simply turned up the pressure to allow more fuel. With a carb, that doesn't work - you need to change the jetting, etc to get it to work..... all of which is why people tend to use blowers under carbs on C3s
that said.... do a lot of research before you pull the trigger - that 700 kit could easily become a 5000 kit with upgrades and such (especially if you go with fuel injection - which IMO would be the first step to turbo-charging your 'vette).
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 04-22-2013 at 10:21 AM.
#3
i figured tuning wouldn't be such a big deal at 6 psi of boost. It just something for fun and to enjoy. And at 6 psi heat is not a restrictor so i would not use ic. So if i bought that kit and this http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-Hybrid...090627&vxp=mtr
i would have an extra turbo as back up. Also have the down pipe and flange. Would i then be set? or do carb engines take anything weird. Just wondering cause when i turbo ed my vr6. Every kit came with a bov but it would go extremely rich with a bov cause it was a maf. So you had to reroute the bov or get a dv.
i would have an extra turbo as back up. Also have the down pipe and flange. Would i then be set? or do carb engines take anything weird. Just wondering cause when i turbo ed my vr6. Every kit came with a bov but it would go extremely rich with a bov cause it was a maf. So you had to reroute the bov or get a dv.
Last edited by Planbmatt1; 04-22-2013 at 10:56 AM.
#4
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Run a single
#6
Melting Slicks
i figured tuning wouldn't be such a big deal at 6 psi of boost. It just something for fun and to enjoy. And at 6 psi heat is not a restrictor so i would not use ic. So if i bought that kit and this http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-Hybrid...090627&vxp=mtr
i would have an extra turbo as back up. Also have the down pipe and flange. Would i then be set? or do carb engines take anything weird. Just wondering cause when i turbo ed my vr6. Every kit came with a bov but it would go extremely rich with a bov cause it was a maf. So you had to reroute the bov or get a dv.
i would have an extra turbo as back up. Also have the down pipe and flange. Would i then be set? or do carb engines take anything weird. Just wondering cause when i turbo ed my vr6. Every kit came with a bov but it would go extremely rich with a bov cause it was a maf. So you had to reroute the bov or get a dv.
I had heat problems at 5 psi on one of my cars - but still, it's something you can deal with by retarding time. Of course, the more timing you pull out, the less hp you make.
That said, with a turbo - or any boosted car, you can use nitrous oxide to cool the charge at specific boost pressures - so you don't absolutely have to have an intercooler in front of the radiator.
And that turbo would be marginal at 350 cubic inches, the exhaust inlet is tiny (like 1 3/4") going up to a t3/t4 hybrid would be better. To give you an idea of how tiny.... I have two of them on the CTS V-6 in my fiat spider (238 ci)
#7
I have two those turbos sitting on a shelf waiting for a home... it's a lot of typing to detail how to set up a carb for any kind of blow-through boost - the biggest issue is this; the float and the needle valve rely on atmospheric pressure to properly open and close, at 6 psi, you're putting 6 lbs of air on top of the float - not to mention the leaks you'll create through the throttle shaft (vacuum leaks) which make tuning a nightmare.
I had heat problems at 5 psi on one of my cars - but still, it's something you can deal with by retarding time. Of course, the more timing you pull out, the less hp you make.
That said, with a turbo - or any boosted car, you can use nitrous oxide to cool the charge at specific boost pressures - so you don't absolutely have to have an intercooler in front of the radiator.
And that turbo would be marginal at 350 cubic inches, the exhaust inlet is tiny (like 1 3/4") going up to a t3/t4 hybrid would be better. To give you an idea of how tiny.... I have two of them on the CTS V-6 in my fiat spider (238 ci)
I had heat problems at 5 psi on one of my cars - but still, it's something you can deal with by retarding time. Of course, the more timing you pull out, the less hp you make.
That said, with a turbo - or any boosted car, you can use nitrous oxide to cool the charge at specific boost pressures - so you don't absolutely have to have an intercooler in front of the radiator.
And that turbo would be marginal at 350 cubic inches, the exhaust inlet is tiny (like 1 3/4") going up to a t3/t4 hybrid would be better. To give you an idea of how tiny.... I have two of them on the CTS V-6 in my fiat spider (238 ci)
also what do you men by 1 3/4 inlet. Im seeing that its a 2" inlet and 2.5" inlet on downpipe. And it is a t3/t4 hybrid. Am i missing something?
#8
My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
#9
Actually no. The float couldn't care less how much atmospheric pressure is on top. It cares only about liquid level. Whether there is flow or not when the valve is open depends on the differential in pressure between the bowl and the fuel pump output. This could easily be overcome by adding a high pressure pump, but this would induce all sorts of side problems.
My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
#10
Melting Slicks
Actually no. The float couldn't care less how much atmospheric pressure is on top. It cares only about liquid level. Whether there is flow or not when the valve is open depends on the differential in pressure between the bowl and the fuel pump output. This could easily be overcome by adding a high pressure pump, but this would induce all sorts of side problems.
My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
My crystal ball sees many tears in the OP's future if he proceeds with this project. Much easier and cheaper ways of making power with an L48 than a turbo.
air pressure keeps the float down (pulling the needle off the seat) - thus keeping the fluid flowing when it should be shut off
#11
Le Mans Master
what happened to you just driving it and having your VW if you want to go fast?
anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.
You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.
You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
Last edited by qwank; 04-22-2013 at 02:09 PM.
#12
Safety Car
A pressure regulator with a boost port is needed to maintain your 5-6 psi of fuel pressure and the as the boost starts building the regulator will allow 1 lbs of fuel pressure to every 1lbs of boost pressure.
A blow tru carb I think would avoid most of your issues with leaks, tuning and drivability but you're looking at @$500+ for most blow tru carbs!
A blow tru carb I think would avoid most of your issues with leaks, tuning and drivability but you're looking at @$500+ for most blow tru carbs!
#13
what happened to you just driving it and having your VW if you want to go fast?
anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.
You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.
You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
#14
what happened to you just driving it and having your VW if you want to go fast?
anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.
You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
anyways, I would get rid of the ricer mentality and just put in a ZZ4. you'll get your same HP goal with less money and aggrivation.
You'll need a new engine after that turbo blows the stock one up anyways
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
P.S. thoe Chinese Ebay turbos are garbage
#15
Le Mans Master
The ZZ4 has a forged crank, a roller cam and aluminum heads.
Nothing wrong with boosting a DD, I'm driving a boosted Cavalier to work everyday
Nothing wrong with boosting a DD, I'm driving a boosted Cavalier to work everyday
Last edited by qwank; 04-22-2013 at 02:22 PM.
#16
also an 11 second honda civic hatchback blew something bad that night too. So i didnt feel awful. Also it was no ricer. He had a plain paint job no stickers just fast as hell lol.
#17
Le Mans Master
most smallblock GM crate engines will just bolt right in
#18
Le Mans Master
yes. theres also a version of the engine that comes with an intake, distributor, carb, water pump etc. that would probably be better for you. you can't use the water pump though, the corvette one is different
#19
Alright sweet. Great to hear. Engine swap would be much less of a headache then a turbo. I have never pulled an engine before. Do you guys recommend a book to read about swapping out small blocks or even how to pull one?
#20
Edit: Ok i see it comes with a long water pump and i would need to get a short one. Got that figured out.
Basically all i need now is something to teach me how to swap an engine. I really want to do it on my own. I have 2 cars. It could take me a month to do the swap for all I care. I just want to do it incase anything breaks I know how to fix it, and so when i pop my hood I can say I did this **** myself :P I would also get an engine crane so I can pull it myself.
Last edited by Planbmatt1; 04-22-2013 at 02:53 PM.