Raydon 3000

I'm buying a 1970 convertable. Any advice on what to check out before buying. :confused:


[Modified by Raydon 3000, 2:15 PM 6/23/2002]

BlueL36

Do a topic search in archives using keyword "buying." Lots of good information.

1970 Dave

http://www.1970corvetteregistry.org/


might be some help as well-good luck and welcome to the FORUM :)

SEMPER FI--1970 Dave

mrvette

RUST RUST RUST, first place is around windshield, vin tag area,...any brown stains means rotted out windshield bow/a pillars, even birdcage steel...check inside kick panels....he won't let you check and you see rust on vin tag...just walk away....
rust on frame, need lift for this one...front of rear tires, thaat crossmember, and the frame rails themselves at that complicated joint....look close, poke with screwdriver....
check for bent frame up front, look for rust stains around bottom of radiator support....
that boomerang looking front cross member also...
check really good for accident damage...

after that, IF you find a good birdcage and frame, if the body panels line up fairly well, and look decent....well the rest is easy....interiors can be done for about 1200 bux in material costs....roughly....

GENE

Juliet

Good luck! And please consider sending the information about that car to the '70 registry. :)

Here's the Buy&Price page with the MUST READ tech inspection article by Corvette Fever Magazine!
http://www.annapolis.net/members/jul...Buy&Price.html

Also, are you looking for an original car? Or a hot rod? Original engine or a project car? Rust is definately the enemy. Good Luck - start asking questions there are a bunch of us fellow '70 owners here. :) Also, if you want any specifics regarding VIN and trim tag date lining up etc, drop me an e-mail. Juliet@annapolis.net

bigvette1

MrVette hit is right on! Rust is a show stopper as far as I am concerned. Know what kind of cost and labor changing a frame, radiator frame, windshield frames is?

Other than that paint and interior are high on the list. You can spend $7500 on good paint and interior. If they are good, the mechanics are the easy part to work on at far less cost. Good luck and hope the car pans out.

80vette

I have heard many people say 70 is a good and bad year.
Good because the production #'s that year are low.
Bad because the reason the #'s are low is because of a strike.
Lot's of early cars with 69 parts.
Lot's of later cars with 71 parts.

There are good ones out there you just need to educate yourself so you know what you are looking at

Wilson6t7

I used to have a 1970. First thing to do is open the hood and check the inside of the fenders to ensure the bonding strips are intact, this indicates it is highly unlikely it has been hit. Check the front grills under the bumper. 1970 is the only year that there were no external philips screws (2) to secure the bottom of the grill to the valance. 1970 used studs and nuts. If u see screws it has been hit as it was pretty near impossible to find replacements. Check out the windshield frame for rust. Also check alignment of doors, another sign of collision damage. Check the carpet in the luggage area for moisture. The 2 astrovents in the rear deck have rubber tubes for drainage and over time they rot and break. Moisture can wreck the floor. Check under the carpet in the footwells for moisture. Corvettes are glass these parts arent. Check fibreoptics not a big deal just a pain to fix as they are a long plastic strand. Dont get excited if the wiper panel doesnt go down properly quite often they have a vacuum leak. Try every mechanical and electrical function. U want to know whats screwed before u take it home. Ditto for instruments. Check rear section of frame just ahead of rear wheel for rust. Get the car in the air and have a real close look. Frame rot is not to be taken lightly. I wont go into drivetrain, usual inspection. Check top fit and inspect frame. Good luck, I am looking for a shark "roller" to drop something nasty into.

:cheers: :chevy

gearheadz

How is this bad? Low #s are low #s regardless of why. Simple supply & demand logic. If you're inferring the strike affected quality, it occured in calendar year '69 resulting in a late start of the '70 production year/run after it was settled.

Mark

Juliet

There was also a strike during April 1970 when no cars were produced. Here's the production schedule (based on 278 cars in the registry and other data). http://corvetteforum.net/c3/1970registry/BuildDays.html Don put this together. :) Hmmm, we've got almost 400 cars now I guess I should update it. ;) But I agree, lower production (for whatever reason) I look at as a good thing in terms of rarity / value / supply & demand. :seeya ~Juliet

Kevin Mason

First and foremost, get a car with a good body and suspension. Engines and interiors are relatively cheap compared with Vette bodywork.

Unless you have a lot of experience and enjoy restoring cars, buy a car in the best shape that you can afford. Stay away from a basket case that "I can rebuild." You will never get back what you put into it, especially if you factor in your time.

Read this Forum, there are a lot of people here ready to help, and a lot of threads covering this exact topic.