glarior

80 vette' LS1, lower springs in the front and 18x8 wheels. Daily driver with 1 open road race and 1 track day every year. Right now the car is scary darty especially changing lanes. The car brakes straight except at high speeds. The steering wheel does not turn back to straight after making a left or right turn... you have to manually turn the wheel back.

What should the alignment specs be for the above setup? Every shop I have talked to don't know what the hell they are talking about. There was one shop that did but their guy left that shop.

Current specs in degrees

Front Left
Camber: -0.6
Caster: 3
Toe: 0.31
SAI: 7.8

Front Right
Camber: -0.6
Caster: 2.8
Toe: 0.29
SAI: 7.7

Rear Left
Camber: -0.3
Toe: 0.11

Rear Right
Camber: -1.1
Toe: 0.08

77C34SPD

Just had my 77 done at a local dealership. Her are the before and after specs for 77-78. I did go over the procedture with the tech before hand to verify the correct way for rear alignment. Car goes down the road perfect

MelWff

Download the document from this site and pick the spec closest to your intended usage of the car.

http://www.vbandp.com/View-document-...ent-Specs.html

zwede

If the steering wheel does not return to center with 3 dgr caster you have a problem. It has to be binding somewhere.

Front camber/caster looks OK. Toe-in looks excessive.

I'd put -0.8 camber on the rear.

gcusmano74

Yes. I agree with zwede. And make sure the left side measurements are equal to the right side, as close as possible.

glarior

Could be possible on binding. I have the steeroids setup and it binded in the past but I fixed that when on jack stands. I will investigate that more.

Thanks everyone for the information and links. I have something to work towards now and will find someone who can adjust it like I want it.

TheSkunkWorks

As for alignment specs, VBP's are as good a baseline as any from which to start for a particular purpose, but the RR specs aren't necessarily going to prove optimum for a given car on a given track on a given day without going to the trouble of additional tuning.

That said, if you're going to run one alignment setup for both the street and tracking, I'd stick within advanced street specs, tho if you tend towards very much spirited driving away from the track you can certainly get away with a bit more static camber; how much can only be determined by keeping a close eye on tire wear.

And, FWIW, you are aware that there are more geometry tweaks other than basic static alignment, no?