7T3C3TTZ07

I removed the Stingray script side emblems (as well as all other trim) for a trip to the paint shop. The Stingray emblems are in good shape. One of the four pins was broken off long ago but the pin may be redundant with the adhesive. I plan to clean these up and reinstall them. There was a stringy black adhesive on the back of the emblems that easily came off with mineral spirits. The adhesive reminded me of weatherstrip adhesive. I notice that modern replacements have what looks like a foam adhesive die cut to match the script. Lacking the die cut foam adhesive, what would be the best way to duplicate the GM adhesive? I was thinking of using some black RTV Form-a-Gasket. The 3M weatherstrip may also work. Any ideas or experiences? Thanks.

Alan 71

Hi7.....,
Originally there was the black die cut adhesive you may be seeing remnants of.
I believe there were no speed nuts used on 69-72 cars.
But, you could certainly use a couple on each script.
Regards,
Alan

rafalc

When I bought my '70 those emblems were not being held in place by anything. I guess previous owner didnt use anything after the paint job and they stayed in place just fine. I did get some speed nuts so they will go on soon.

redwhitekat

I just put l82 emblems on my 74 could not find double sided tape so used a clear general glue from a parts store looks good no mess when u put it on u have to hold it in place for about 5 min so it grabs after that its on there really good

DC3

If I am remembering correctly, many moons ago on this forum someone posted the part number for a 3M double sided tape that was specifically for emblem reattachment. I have used 3M black weatherstrip adhesive on other cars in the past with good results.

DC

Paul L

Just use black GOOP on the inside surfaces of the studs.

resdoggie

I used a few dabs of plain old clear silicone years ago. Still intact to this day.

7T3C3TTZ07

As a matter of fact, I only found one speed nut. The other pins appeared to never have had them installed. Lots of options. Thanks everyone.

Korevette

From my recollection those emblem 'stud's were secured by what the body shop industry called 'barrel nuts' They had nothing to do with a nut that would thread onto the stud but a 'sleeve' that was inserted into a drilled hole in the body then inserted to accomodate the stud as it was shoved into the sleeve. There were 'grip tips' that would prevent the emblem from working it's self away from the body.

We used many adhesives to secure emblems. I avoided the 'black goop' on the back of the emblem as for most cases it still looked like 'black goop' when the emblem was in place. The thin script of 'Cutlass' looked like hell.

We used 3M double sided adhesive tape and cut out around or in between the emblem letters. Very time consuming. 3M had a thinner clear tape to secure the emblem but it was quite thin to try to cut around.

I would suggest to go to what the AIM manual called for and duplicate.

Good luck.

johnnyjaws

use double sided foam tape buy gm put it on and slowly cut it out with a razor

sajclayton

I used a double sided tape from the home improvement store that is used to hold floor laminate down where 2 edges but together. I just stuck it to the emblem and use an exacto kinfe to trim to shape. I then stuck it to the car after pulling off the backing. It has been holding for over a year now with no problems

7T1vette

Whatever you use, it should be safe for the paint surface and it should also provide a 'cushion' so that the emblem does not vibrate against the paint and cause abrasion. You need to be able to remove that emblem and adhesive without damage to the paint.

I would highly recommend that you install at least 2 of the speed nuts on emblem pins to retain it securely. You don't need to tighten them too much...just enough to keep it snugged down. Those pins aren't very strong, anyway.

When I refurbished those 'script' side emblems, I found it IMPOSSIBLE to repaint them as the originals were (only the "background" section painted black). So, I chemically stripped the emblems, sprayed satin-black paint on all of it, then used an X-acto knife to peel off the semi-hardened paint from just the top surface of the lettering. They look a bit different than the originals....but I actually like them better!

jackwabbit703

i did the unthinkable when i had trouble putting the stingray emblem. i crazy glued it and it is still on their like tick on a deer.

jr73

just a testimony to the strength of silicone sealant. We use it in the machine shop where I work to seal the covers on fluid filled drive cases then tighten the bolts, and it takes a hammer and flange spreader to get those covers back off again a few years later.

resdoggie

Glad I used it sparingly.

c69vete

The thing about the script emblems is they usually trap dirt and wax and get really hard to clean around.
A thin "washer" cut from a piece of proper sized vacuum tube slid over the studs, and then speed nuts or a short length of vacuum tube over the studs once installed, allows for quick removal for clean-ups and keeps paint damage to a minimun.

Picceldo

Those studs are not meant to hold the emblem on the car. They are locating pins to ensure correct placement. They are held on with emblem adhesive.

Lakeside49

I was reading this timely post with interest because I bought an original NOS nose emblem from a guy whose dad worked at the supplier that originally made them in Michigan for the '82. He had an entire box of 50 of them - but they had not yet been fitted with 3M tape so as usual, guys here have it dialed in.
But, respectfully I couldn't help notice that a couple of the "resourceful" solutions are probably going to end up back here as bona fide "Bubba's Bible" posts by their next care-takers... pass the the chisel, please.
Just say'n