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Wrist Pin Removal/Connecting Rod Honing

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Old 07-06-2013, 10:49 AM
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nikolay827
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Default Wrist Pin Removal/Connecting Rod Honing

I recently removed the piston pins from my connecting rods, and they look really good, in fact you can see the factory hone marks, I was wondering if I need to get them honed again or if I can use them as they are right now?

(I didn't use a press to remove the pins, I made a weird contraption http://thedivideandconquer.com/wrist-pin-remover/)

My concern is that honing removes metal, and therefore the clamp-force on the pin will be smaller.

Ideas?
Old 07-06-2013, 11:23 AM
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oldalaskaman
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take them to someone who knows what they are doing
Old 07-06-2013, 12:31 PM
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7t9l82
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:01 PM
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'75
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I see no reason to hone them unless you are going to floating wrist pins.
Old 07-06-2013, 03:28 PM
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hugie82
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You should have a shop do it with the correct equipment but if you are Hell bent on doing it, here's the trick!

Place the wrist pins in the freezer.
Make a stopper in the piston so the wrist pin will be centered on the rod.
Heat the small end of the rod to around 4-500* and the wrist pin should just about fall in.
Let it all cool slowly. Do Not quench in water!!!
Old 07-06-2013, 09:59 PM
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bashcraft
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Originally Posted by nikolay827
I recently removed the piston pins from my connecting rods, and they look really good, in fact you can see the factory hone marks, I was wondering if I need to get them honed again or if I can use them as they are right now?

(I didn't use a press to remove the pins, I made a weird contraption http://thedivideandconquer.com/wrist-pin-remover/)

My concern is that honing removes metal, and therefore the clamp-force on the pin will be smaller.

Ideas?
This is a joke, right?
Old 07-06-2013, 10:41 PM
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lionelhutz
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You use the small end as is.
Old 07-06-2013, 11:52 PM
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nikolay827
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
This is a joke, right?
What do you mean?

This is my first time rebuilding an engine and I realize my question may seem quite stupid to some people that do know what they're doing, however there isn't a whole lot of information about this sort of thing online. If I may point out, while answering a question with another question can sometimes be very thought provoking and informative sometimes it's just a waste of time to both parties.

I'd prefer (personally), if at all possible, when I ask a seemingly stupid question of someone, and they take the time to answer, they just tell me I'm an idiot (if they so desire, it doesn't bother me) and explain to me why that's the case, otherwise what's the point of me asking or someone answering.

But hey, no hard feelings, after all it's just words on a screen.

Everyone else I very much appreciate your input!
Old 07-07-2013, 12:13 AM
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noonie
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Easiest just to take it to an automotive machine shop.
If you feel you can duplicate the procedure, here is a short video.

Old 07-07-2013, 12:26 AM
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7t9l82
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i would not suggest even attempting this if it is your first rebuild, the rod has a front and back the piston has a certain direction it needs to be oriented, the pin has to sit in a specific spot. you need to learn a lot more before you attempt a rebuild, not trying to be mean but you are going to waste a lot of money and maybe some parts that can't be replaced, matching number block etc.
Old 07-07-2013, 07:07 AM
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JimT
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Several tips that may help you....
Note original locations of rods, pistons, alignment etc and mark them.
Have an accurate/worthy set of digital calipers..
Understand the recommended tolerances for bearings, bushings.
A rebuild is not brain surgery but does require knowledge of the engine and its assembly.
Good luck

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