Replace Engine Mount C3
07-20-2013, 10:00 PM
#1
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Replace Engine Mount C3
Can I replace the left engine mount on my '81 C3 without major moves to the engine and suspension. Have aftermarket headers. Looks hard to get at the engine bolts!
Eric
Eric
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franklinmint (12-03-2020)
07-21-2013, 12:29 AM
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Done that but seems I might need to fabricate a short box spanner to get into the angle and short space to undo the 2 top engine bolts. The chassis is in the way and the space around the bolt head is too small for a socket or ring spanner. Any suggestions re tools?
07-21-2013, 01:03 AM
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I just did mine, pulled the alt & p/s pump out of the way, got to the top front bolt from the top, kinda where the p/s pump used to be, the rear one I got from the bottom. Was able to get them with a reg shallow socket, but in the past I have had to grind a socket making it super thin to get down over the bolt. I did both and the trans mount, I took the trans mount loose first so the motor would rock over when lifted with a jack to make the swap easier.
07-21-2013, 01:23 AM
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That all makes good sense and confirms my fears. Got the easy bits from underneath so now to grow the thick skin over the knuckles and get on with the hard bits. Thanks. Eric
07-22-2013, 10:11 AM
#7
Team Owner
It is not a big deal if you have a hoist, but it can also be done with a floor jack.
You put a slight lift on the side of the engine in question to take the bind off the long fore and aft bolt through the bottom of the motor mount.
Take that bolt out and continue to lift that side of the motor as high as it can until it starts to lift the car. That generally gives you enough room to get to the three motor mount bolts on the side of the block.
I went from stock to Energy Suspension poly locking and they lasted for years, but my glowing headers finally melted them and the driver side broke, but stayed together. I went to solid motor mounts
You put a slight lift on the side of the engine in question to take the bind off the long fore and aft bolt through the bottom of the motor mount.
Take that bolt out and continue to lift that side of the motor as high as it can until it starts to lift the car. That generally gives you enough room to get to the three motor mount bolts on the side of the block.
I went from stock to Energy Suspension poly locking and they lasted for years, but my glowing headers finally melted them and the driver side broke, but stayed together. I went to solid motor mounts
07-23-2013, 07:51 AM
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Thanks for the help. Done it OK. Jacked the engine and removed everything. Got at the 3 engine bolts from underneath with socket extensions and universal. Removed the 2 front plugs in case they were threatened. Tied back the P/Steer and Alt. Loose refit of Engine bolts. Fiddle to line up long bolt! Then tightened all. No short cuts refitting the P/Steer. All good now. Thanks guys. Eric