mac79vette

Thank you very much for the information. Where did you get the bracket? This is a really nice set up and looks really good.

C6DuffMan

It's actually a Ford coil bracket. BUT, Some C2's and C3's use an actually filter bracket in this location. I've been meaning to source one.

Thanks for the compliments.

SR70-454

Going thru some similar issues and am considering going with a Holley or Edelbrock pump. Stock one has always performed fine however I really like the looks of the after market pumps. My problem is I cannot find any models with the return line outlet. Does anyone know of any? I noticed Redman76 said he had to go with a vented gas cap, is that the only issue? if not what other problems can I expect if I eliminate the return line?

PeteZO6

If you have a fuel pump without a return line, there is a GM filter with the return line

This is a stock '69 filter positioned lower than stock to accommodate the fuel line for a Holley double pumper. Hand bent stainless tubing. Easy with a cheap parts store tubing bender.


Pete

Mike Ward

Choose one:

- shiny bling pump that can only be seen with the hood open

- reliable operation with no worries about vapour lock

Installing a vented cap will not cure or prevent vapour lock.

cv67

Heard of many of those glass filters breaking mine never did (this was almost 20 yrs ago). What did happen was it sprouted leaks very easily

Those things are fire hazards period get rid of it.

Killingsworth 73

I did!

AboveTheLogic

I have rubber line running from my mechanical fuel pump up to the carb with a glass filter in between, and this thread is freaking me out.

aussiejohn

ATL,

I'm glad it's freaking you out, perhaps this will spur you to replace the pump-to-carb line with a one piece steel one as designed by the engineers at GM all those years ago. By all means consider putting a GM STEEL in-line filter in the line, but for your own peace of mind, and your safety, replace that potential death trap ASAP.

No offense intended, as a PO may have put the rubber line there, but it's now up to you to make it safe.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

noonie

You can also use a return style regulator near the carb. Added benefit is it controls your fuel pressure much better than the stock setup.
The whole idea of the return line both oem and with the regulator in respects to eliminating vapor lock is to keep the fuel moving and cool.

AboveTheLogic

No, it was me

It is fixed now, though:

aussiejohn

ATL,

What you did is better than it was, but you still have two rubber lines between the pump and the carb, plus what looks like an in-line fuel pressure gauge at the carb inlet. There are many Forum members who believe that the only rubber in your fuel line should be two short pieces, one at the tank and the S one at the feed side of the pump. Plus the by-pass from the pump to the return line.

And I have read stories here of those cheap FPGs breaking, for whatever reason, and spraying fuel everywhere. I see you have an electric fan, which blows downward, but airflow through the engine compartment will blow fuel back towards the distributor, from where the sparks emanate.

Please seek the advice of someone like Lars as well as other Forum members, I believe that it is in your best interests to once more change your pump-to-carb fuel line.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

lars

Due to the number of engine fires I've seen caused by rubber lines on the pressure side of the system, I never build any engine with any rubber sections under pressure. Stock carbs/systems are easy: Just order the stock GM steel line from any of the 'Vette vendors. This makes it safe and reliable. If you have an aftermarket carb and/or aftermarket fuel pump, you have to fabricate your own steel lines and your own return system. Here are some systems I've built to accommodate aftermarket carbs, just to give you an idea of what you can easily do with basic hand tools in your garage:

420-cube 530-horse small block with return-style regulator mounted mid-manifold to assure no vapor lock during street use. All lines are stainless, and all connections from the pump to the carb are hard-line threaded connections:


407-cube 500-horse small block with a return regulator mounted at the rear of the carb and all hard-line connections:




463 Pontiac using a simple non-regulated bleed-orifice return line and all hard-line plumbing:


For instructions on building systems, just e-mail me for my "How to Build a Fuel Line" tech paper.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com

AboveTheLogic

First I want to say, thanks for the advice. I really do appreciate it. Forums like this make me feel like I'm not going at this restoration alone. I'm a hobbyist, not a pro.

I'm not 100% happy with the rubber lines. I emailed Lars for the tech paper, it sounds like it would be better for me to place the fuel filter between the pump and tank somewhere. That would make it easier to reduce the points of failure between the pump and the carb.

The gauge is a Jeg's gauge connected to a Holley fuel rail through a 90 degree adapter, here is a picture I just took for you:



I'm all for making it better. I look forward to seeing an email reply from Lars so I can read that tech paper.

AboveTheLogic

I read the paper that lars sent me, I don't think I'm far off. I have a tube cutter and flaring tools. I need to get some line, ends, and an inline filter that I can screw into and I should be able to improve upon this on my own.

What's the consensus on the Jeg's gauge that I posted a picture of. Is it a hazard?

lars

No. You can break the glass, and there is no connection between fuel pressure and the glass/dial area: The pressure is on the other side of a metallic bellows, so the bellows would have to rupture along with the glass - not a likely scenario.

Lars

Planbmatt1

can anyone provide a link to the kit the lets you replace all lines with steel lines? If everything is stock. Ill want to do this.

lars

There is no "kit." It's just a fuel line. Hard fuel lines are carried by every Corvette restoration parts supplier in the "engine fuel" section of their catalogs. You can shop for Paragon Corvette, Long Island Corvette, Eckler's, Mid-America, Zip, Corvette Central, or any of your other favorite suppliers - they all carry them.

Lars

Brcmpbl

If it is just the pump to carb line you're looking to do (and that's the one being discussed in this thread, as well as the one that is most commonly replaced with rubber), this is what you need for your 1976:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G

I'd go ahead and replace these while you're at it:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G

Killingsworth 73

Lars, I need you to build me one of those beasts!!! Those engines are beautiful!!