You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Corvetteforum.com today!
After driving car, gas in filter bubbles till filter emptys. Filter glass isn't hot.no gas leaks. New mech. Pump, new 600 edelbrock carb. Any ideas?
Idea #1, get rid of that potential fire hazard, the glass filter. They break, spraying gasoline in the engine compartment where heat and sparks are waiting to turn your car into a melted lump. You probably have rubber hoses between the fuel pump and filter, and from the filter to the carb. All this stuff is under pressure and should be replaced with a metal filter and hard lines.
You don't say if the car runs badly when the filter fills with bubbles, if so, you probably have another problem, but first get rid of the fire hazard.
Car runs fine while driving, or ideling no bubbles.starts with air bubbles after turning off. Embarrassing at times cranking engine till it fills with gas.will redo filter with steel filter but would like to fix first.
Dummy me! Motor is all stock. What and where is the heat riser? Purpose of? Can it be eliminated if I have one? Thanks for the help.found where heat riser is. Maybe mine is stuck shut. Dont drive in winter, can I wire it open to solve my problem?
Last edited by Wayne78SAvette; 08-22-2013 at 09:19 PM.
I tried the wooden spacer route, and it is not plug and play. After I added the 1/2" spacer that I got from Jeg's or Summit, the car ran terribly. I backed out of the driveway, then immediately pulled it back in the garage and took it off. There is probably some associated carb adjustments to making this work, but I am just learning the art of carb tuning.
My problem was resolved with a combination of two solutions. I had bought some thermal sleeving for the hard fuel line from the pump to the rubber linethat connects to the banjo fitting on the carb (with a clear plastic in-line fuel filter). The second thing that completely solved the problem was replacing the fuel filter, which was providing near zero fuel pressure at idle, but worked OK at higher RPMs.
I have not had an issue since. I took great pains to make sure the fuel line from the pump to the carb was not in contact with the engine at any point in its travels.
I use a clear plastic Purolator filter on my 383, have for over 11 years. I am always reading about using the clear filters, plastic or glass, put you at greater risk of fire.
Does anyone have any real proof of this? Not 'My buddies second cousin had his Corvette burn up because of the clear filter'. It would seem to me that a large Company, such as Purolator, would be aware of problems with this type of fuel filter, due to lawsuits, and would stop manufacturing them.
Cite court cases. I don't think that owners or insurance companies would sit on their hands if they could prove this to be true.
Location: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
Sounds to me your carb is bleeding down into the intake.
Has the carb been rebuilt ? New ?
Personally, i would do away with ANY potential future leak of gasoline in the engine compartment (read- glass fuel filter)
You can buy billet aluminum in line filters for ~$40.
GM always used steel tubing for pressurized fuel lines. They felt that rubber hoses were an unacceptable risk.
If you moniter your fuel lines regularly, you will likely be able to fix any leaks before they cause a problem.
Remember, many people never open the hoods to their own cars. Ever. Strange as it may seem to us.
Thanks to all for there info. Will change some things, fuel filter which filter is new. Carb is new (not rebuilt) mech. Who installed carb had put in line pressure guage but said nothing about low fuel pressure. Will change line from pump to carb.