Getting a little more power out of my engine
#1
Instructor
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Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Langhorne PA
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Getting a little more power out of my engine
Engine set up and modifications:
Stock intake
Stock distributor
Stock Carburetor
Long tube headers straight 3 inch pipe back to magnalow muffler
Dart iron heads better stock replacement heads with better flow
1968 350HP cam with 1.5 roller rockers springs and valves to match
new lifters and rods
New stock crank
flat top pistons 10.1:1 compression
High flow oil and fuel pump
advanced timing 12
Wanted to see if there was anything else i could do to the engine to get some more power and life out of it without changing the intake distributor carb or removing the computer. dont mind modding the carb or having work done to it but dont want to completely remove and replace it.
Thanks
Andrew
Stock intake
Stock distributor
Stock Carburetor
Long tube headers straight 3 inch pipe back to magnalow muffler
Dart iron heads better stock replacement heads with better flow
1968 350HP cam with 1.5 roller rockers springs and valves to match
new lifters and rods
New stock crank
flat top pistons 10.1:1 compression
High flow oil and fuel pump
advanced timing 12
Wanted to see if there was anything else i could do to the engine to get some more power and life out of it without changing the intake distributor carb or removing the computer. dont mind modding the carb or having work done to it but dont want to completely remove and replace it.
Thanks
Andrew
#3
Custom tune the distributor. Look at Lars' papers.
You want to start at maybe an initial timing lead of 12 to 14 degrees, plus mechanical advance of an extra 20 to 24 degrees, starting a few hundred RPM above idle, and all in at about 2800 RPM. Your total mechanical advance should be 34 to 38 degrees at that point.
Find a vacuum canister that adds another 15-16 degrees.
Then get an air/fuel gauge to calibrate your carb. The Qjet is very adjustable. Again, look at Lars' papers. Cliff Ruggles' and also Doug Roe's books on the Qjet are great.
You want to end up with an idle of maybe 14.5 to one, cruise at 14.5, and a heavy/wide open throttle of 12 to one.
Then get a good 4 wheel alignment.
Done, done and done.
You want to start at maybe an initial timing lead of 12 to 14 degrees, plus mechanical advance of an extra 20 to 24 degrees, starting a few hundred RPM above idle, and all in at about 2800 RPM. Your total mechanical advance should be 34 to 38 degrees at that point.
Find a vacuum canister that adds another 15-16 degrees.
Then get an air/fuel gauge to calibrate your carb. The Qjet is very adjustable. Again, look at Lars' papers. Cliff Ruggles' and also Doug Roe's books on the Qjet are great.
You want to end up with an idle of maybe 14.5 to one, cruise at 14.5, and a heavy/wide open throttle of 12 to one.
Then get a good 4 wheel alignment.
Done, done and done.
#4
Racer
I think the engine mods should have made a big differance over the stock 624 smog heads. The distrib and carb are your bottle neck IMO.. Nothing wrong the qjet carb except it is computer controled in conjuction with the distrb. No way to tune these devils with the fred flintstone ecm. I removed all the computer controled eqipment and installed equipment pre 1980 for a engine I can now adjust and tune to what the engine needs. New carb and dizzy and you'll have a better running engine. But if stock is manditory the tuning is just not going to give you many options. Hope my opinions help.
#5
Le Mans Master
I agree computer control of the distributor and carb may be the bottleneck.
The cam may be holding you back being an older style grind. You could go with higher lift and/or roller cam kit (with matching valve train components) to match the flow of the DART heads.
The cam may be holding you back being an older style grind. You could go with higher lift and/or roller cam kit (with matching valve train components) to match the flow of the DART heads.