Fendermb4

Hey Everyone,
I have a 1968 427/390 that I got with a commercially rebuilt carb that was stamped right but was apparently a bit of a frankenstein.

I picked up a 69 Q-Jet on ebay for a 350 and had Lars rebuild it.

The car runs awesome now, but I have to manually move my choke when the car is warm.

The rod that connects the carb to the choke doesn't fit. The choke cover also doesn't seem to fit under the carb, but it could just be tight.

I was wondering if anyone can give me a hint on how I can hook this up so it will work right? Is it a tight fit? Do I just need a different rod?

Below is the carb with the choke removed and the choke rod hanging off. See the hook that goes into the choke is facing the wrong way?

Alan 71

Hi FB4,
I can only see a q-mark, no picture.
There are various configurations of choke coils, choke coil covers, choke rods, and carb choke linkage.
Do you believe you now how the correct one of each for your intake and carburetor combination?
Regards,
Alan

Fendermb4

I was hoping I'd be able to use the stock configuration, since I have a stock 68 intake and choke and a 69 SB carb. If I knew it was going to be a problem, I would have bought a different carb. I didn't realize it was a variable to consider.

The choke rod I got is listed for 68 and 69 427, so I figured the configurations between the carbs must be pretty close.

Looking at a choke rod for a 350, that doesn't look like it would work either.

Oops, looks like my picture was messed up. Here it is again:

Alan 71

Hi fb,
I'm out of my league with 427 motors.
I did look at Dr. Rebuild and he lists 2 different rods for 68 and 69 390hp engines. I'm obviously not sure if that's causing your problem or not.
There also appears to be 2 different coils, ....one coils clock-wise, and the other counter clock-wise, ....I would think this affects how the choke works but I'm not sure how to tell which one you need.
Sorry!
Regards,
Alan

restoman1

The 68 327/300, 327/350, 427/390; the 69-70 350/300 and 350/350; and the 69 427/390 used the same basic choke assembly.

For Rochester equipped cars (see the list above), the bi-metal coil "raises" the rod as the engine warms up ("lowers" the rod when it's cold).

For any car equipped with a Holley carb (the rest of the 68-69 engines not on the above list), it's just the opposite. The bi-metal coil "lowers" the rod as the engine warms up ("raises" the rod when it's cold).

However, the choke rods themselves are different between small block and big block and Rochester and Holley, so you may have the wrong one. Not a big deal since they can be bent, but if you're "showing" the car, you'll need to get the right one.

By the way, the cover just snaps on but again, you may have to "adjust" it.

Here's the assembly on my 69 427/390...

Ed

Fendermb4

Thanks restoman, thats very helpful! I'm just gonna bend this thing.

What is that long vacuum barb for? What kind of vacuum source should be connected to that?

Its not, by chance, for ATX only, is it? My previous carb didn't have it. My new carb is an ATX one.

restoman1

It's actually the signal source for the AIR pump diverter valve, but I don't have the smog setup on the car so I've used it for the distributor vacuum. It's full vacuum instead of ported which gives better performance.

Ed

SIXTYTWO

Does anyone have the correct GM part numbers for the 1968 choke parts?
1. Choke coil
2. Choke rod
3. Choke cover

vettebuyer6369

Lets start a new thread asking your question rather than tacking it onto an unrelated thread from 8 years ago.