C3 - OEM , coil , solid?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
C3 - OEM , coil , solid?
So my saggy old 77' still has the original suspension.. even the shocks.
time to dust it off and upgrade.
It seems for about $1400 I can either:
1) Completely rebuild the OEM suspension with newer/better Poly and Stage 1 bits.
2) Convert over to a modern coilover system (some fab. required)
3) Convert over to a solid rear axle (lots of welding required)
It all costs about the same. Which option will best eliminate the rear-end wag that makes you think the car is going to fling itself off of a corner? (I assume a better cruising ride will come with all 3 options)
time to dust it off and upgrade.
It seems for about $1400 I can either:
1) Completely rebuild the OEM suspension with newer/better Poly and Stage 1 bits.
2) Convert over to a modern coilover system (some fab. required)
3) Convert over to a solid rear axle (lots of welding required)
It all costs about the same. Which option will best eliminate the rear-end wag that makes you think the car is going to fling itself off of a corner? (I assume a better cruising ride will come with all 3 options)
#2
Drifting
So this is just the rear only?
If so what I am doing ti mine is going to a fiberglass monospring, bilstein shocks, and adjustable strut rods. The rest will be OEM style bushings and such.
What issues are you having? Is this a oversteer feeling?
My car had some crazy oversteer. I installed a larger front sway bar and new tires/wheels.
If so what I am doing ti mine is going to a fiberglass monospring, bilstein shocks, and adjustable strut rods. The rest will be OEM style bushings and such.
What issues are you having? Is this a oversteer feeling?
My car had some crazy oversteer. I installed a larger front sway bar and new tires/wheels.
Last edited by Marlin; 09-24-2013 at 03:50 PM.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I will need to do both the fronts and rear. The whole car rides too low as stuff is warn out. As for exact issues, I wouldn't call it oversteer exactly... I can usually deal with that. More like the whole car teeter-totters from side to side even in low speed corner exit.
Its all just old... even the tires are dried and cracking. As I said, it just needs refreshed.
I'm really asking now as to avoid humiliation later... I don't want to spend all that money and then have someone on here say, "You dummy, for the same $$$ you could have done x,y,z and its soo much better!"
You know.. do my homework up front.
#4
Le Mans Master
Just an over all refreshing of the suspension and tires would address all that.
I did all new bushings up front, ball joints, springs and shocks. Also installed a Rack and Pinion and it came with new tie rods and such.
For the rear I went coil overs and spherical strut rods. T Arms were already rebuilt.
I did all new bushings up front, ball joints, springs and shocks. Also installed a Rack and Pinion and it came with new tie rods and such.
For the rear I went coil overs and spherical strut rods. T Arms were already rebuilt.
#5
Drifting
Hi,
I will need to do both the fronts and rear. The whole car rides too low as stuff is warn out. As for exact issues, I wouldn't call it oversteer exactly... I can usually deal with that. More like the whole car teeter-totters from side to side even in low speed corner exit.
Its all just old... even the tires are dried and cracking. As I said, it just needs refreshed.
I'm really asking now as to avoid humiliation later... I don't want to spend all that money and then have someone on here say, "You dummy, for the same $$$ you could have done x,y,z and its soo much better!"
You know.. do my homework up front.
I will need to do both the fronts and rear. The whole car rides too low as stuff is warn out. As for exact issues, I wouldn't call it oversteer exactly... I can usually deal with that. More like the whole car teeter-totters from side to side even in low speed corner exit.
Its all just old... even the tires are dried and cracking. As I said, it just needs refreshed.
I'm really asking now as to avoid humiliation later... I don't want to spend all that money and then have someone on here say, "You dummy, for the same $$$ you could have done x,y,z and its soo much better!"
You know.. do my homework up front.
Do you want OEM style ride, little upgrade, or full on road racer feel?
For me I want something between little upgrade and full racer. This is what i am in the process of doing.
The Rear:
Fiberglass monospring(360 VBP), bilstein shocks, and adjustable strut rods. Bushings will all be OEM style rubber. No sway bar, will look into that again once the entire front end is done.
The Front:
Replace upper control arms with aftermarket for better aligmnet. New OEM style Ball joints and rubber control arm bushings. Poly bushings on the sway bar. And a rack and pinion is already on(you can use the updated gear box to update the steering system without going to rack). I also put on a 1 1/8 front sway bar. And bilstein shocks to match the rear.
I don't like Poly control arm bushings for street cars. I put them on my first car and I liked them enough but they will make it ride much harder.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the feedback.
Maybe the stage 1 kit I saw is the way to go then. It was a lot of OEM replacement, but had the fiberglass spring, KYB shocks/struts and slightly stiffer front coils.
Maybe the stage 1 kit I saw is the way to go then. It was a lot of OEM replacement, but had the fiberglass spring, KYB shocks/struts and slightly stiffer front coils.
#7
Team Owner
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Why not put new shocks on it and drive it for a while before deciding whether you need to spend another $1500? When was the last time you had an alignment? The rear wag you mention sounds like camber. You don't need $1500 to correct that.
Last edited by Easy Mike; 09-26-2013 at 03:39 PM.
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter