HELP!!! Dewitt's radiator install going south!!!
10-02-2013, 02:57 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
HELP!!! Dewitt's radiator install going south!!!
I purchased a Dewitt's radiator with the fan kit. It's taken me 4 days to install it, along with a water pump. First time doing a radiator and water pump explains most of my troubles I experienced.
I finally got it all together, I thought I got the wiring right, I started filling the radiator with distilled water and coolant.
I cranked the motor. It dropped a little and I filled it some more. I ended up putting about 2 and a half Gal. of coolant, and about 2 gal. of distilled water.
I let the motor run, but the temp gauge climbed pretty quick to 220 and showed no sign of slowing down. The electric fans didn't cut on either, so I shut it down.
I unhooked the heater hose on the top of the intake manifold and coolant came out, so I am guessing there's water circulating in the block?
The "iffy" parts about my fan motor wiring are the black ground wires from the motors... Not sure if it's a good ground. ...and the orange wire that goes to the ignition, I hooked into the ignition control wire on the fuse panel...so I was unclear about that. The diagram says orange to ignition...so i am sure I got that wrong.
Any help it GREATLY appreciated!!
last night, near completion..
I finally got it all together, I thought I got the wiring right, I started filling the radiator with distilled water and coolant.
I cranked the motor. It dropped a little and I filled it some more. I ended up putting about 2 and a half Gal. of coolant, and about 2 gal. of distilled water.
I let the motor run, but the temp gauge climbed pretty quick to 220 and showed no sign of slowing down. The electric fans didn't cut on either, so I shut it down.
I unhooked the heater hose on the top of the intake manifold and coolant came out, so I am guessing there's water circulating in the block?
The "iffy" parts about my fan motor wiring are the black ground wires from the motors... Not sure if it's a good ground. ...and the orange wire that goes to the ignition, I hooked into the ignition control wire on the fuse panel...so I was unclear about that. The diagram says orange to ignition...so i am sure I got that wrong.
Any help it GREATLY appreciated!!
last night, near completion..
Last edited by SGTCrowley; 10-02-2013 at 03:05 AM.
10-02-2013, 05:13 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
I'm about to undertake the same , but with just the fan install. do you have a test lite or a volt ohm meter? where did you install the temp sensor? to check your ground with test lite; install alligator clip on big terminal of alternator, probe end to your ground. if lite comes on ground is good. to test positive, key on, alligator clip on negative stud of alternator, then probe wire. lite should come on. which brings me back to my question, where did the temp sensor get installed? Dewitt says to install it into the thermostadt housing, but my housing doesn't have a port and yours is alreading being used. so I guess we all need help here.
10-02-2013, 05:31 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
i just changed mine to a champion 3 row and only took about 3 hours, but i stayed with the clutch fan. the wiring shouldn't be that bad. does your alternator put out enough to run that fan?
10-02-2013, 07:44 AM
#6
Just a reminder...don't forget to replace the rubber seal(s) on the top and sides of your radiator and condensor. Most of the time they have dry rotted and fallen off so most people don't know they where there or missing.
These help to keep the pressure and flow in the correct direction.
Kevin
These help to keep the pressure and flow in the correct direction.
Kevin
10-02-2013, 10:21 AM
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
I did a write up on this when I did mine...hope it helps! 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...pals-pics.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...pals-pics.html
10-02-2013, 10:24 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
10-02-2013, 10:33 AM
#9
Advanced
Thread Starter
I'm about to undertake the same , but with just the fan install. do you have a test lite or a volt ohm meter? where did you install the temp sensor? to check your ground with test lite; install alligator clip on big terminal of alternator, probe end to your ground. if lite comes on ground is good. to test positive, key on, alligator clip on negative stud of alternator, then probe wire. lite should come on. which brings me back to my question, where did the temp sensor get installed? Dewitt says to install it into the thermostadt housing, but my housing doesn't have a port and yours is alreading being used. so I guess we all need help here.
I was completely freaking out at this point. Then I realized it was just the hose clamp above the sensor. LOL!! That's how this install has been going!!
...but, yeah, I need to buy a volt meter...For Sure!!
10-02-2013, 12:48 PM
#10
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Is your thermostat opening?
10-02-2013, 01:22 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
10-02-2013, 02:24 PM
#12
Racer
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The way mine is wired, the wire going to the temperature sensor in the radiator completes the ground when the thermostatic switch trips. If the radiator is not grounded, the fans won't run. Make sure you run a ground from the radiator to the frame or some other grounded structure.
Langg
Langg
10-02-2013, 05:10 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
I would attack this in three steps,
1> get it cooling with all the fluid, no thermostat, wired directly to power (no sensor). this will ensure coolant is flowing and pump is pumping the right direction. bring it up to temp or as high as it will go without a stat.
2> once that works introduce the thermostat again ensuring flow at temp. stat is installed in the correct direction isnt it?
3> then wire with sensor. You already know the flow and stat are working and wont chase your tail with those. any issues you find will be sensor related.
1> get it cooling with all the fluid, no thermostat, wired directly to power (no sensor). this will ensure coolant is flowing and pump is pumping the right direction. bring it up to temp or as high as it will go without a stat.
2> once that works introduce the thermostat again ensuring flow at temp. stat is installed in the correct direction isnt it?
3> then wire with sensor. You already know the flow and stat are working and wont chase your tail with those. any issues you find will be sensor related.
Last edited by jnealg; 10-02-2013 at 05:12 PM.
10-02-2013, 06:48 PM
#14
Former Vendor
It sounds like the only issue here is the fans are not coming on and you don't need the engine running to test this out.
1. Make sure the power wire is run to the battery or battery starter post.
2. Make sure the fuses are not blown
3. The ignition wire should be run to a wire that goes hot when the ignition is turned on. (the wiper motor is a good option) This way the fans won't continue to run when you turn the key to off.
4. The rad/fan kit was supplied with a ground strap, make sure that it is connected to a good ground.
With all that checked, turn the key to ignition, then take the sensor wire off the switch and touch it to ground. if the fans come on, everything is wired correctly. If not, start over.
1. Make sure the power wire is run to the battery or battery starter post.
2. Make sure the fuses are not blown
3. The ignition wire should be run to a wire that goes hot when the ignition is turned on. (the wiper motor is a good option) This way the fans won't continue to run when you turn the key to off.
4. The rad/fan kit was supplied with a ground strap, make sure that it is connected to a good ground.
With all that checked, turn the key to ignition, then take the sensor wire off the switch and touch it to ground. if the fans come on, everything is wired correctly. If not, start over.
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; 10-02-2013 at 06:50 PM.
10-02-2013, 07:05 PM
#15
Pro
I purchased a Dewitt's radiator with the fan kit. It's taken me 4 days to install it, along with a water pump. First time doing a radiator and water pump explains most of my troubles I experienced.
I finally got it all together, I thought I got the wiring right, I started filling the radiator with distilled water and coolant.
I cranked the motor. It dropped a little and I filled it some more. I ended up putting about 2 and a half Gal. of coolant, and about 2 gal. of distilled water.
I let the motor run, but the temp gauge climbed pretty quick to 220 and showed no sign of slowing down. The electric fans didn't cut on either, so I shut it down.
I unhooked the heater hose on the top of the intake manifold and coolant came out, so I am guessing there's water circulating in the block?
The "iffy" parts about my fan motor wiring are the black ground wires from the motors... Not sure if it's a good ground. ...and the orange wire that goes to the ignition, I hooked into the ignition control wire on the fuse panel...so I was unclear about that. The diagram says orange to ignition...so i am sure I got that wrong.
Any help it GREATLY appreciated!!
last night, near completion..
I finally got it all together, I thought I got the wiring right, I started filling the radiator with distilled water and coolant.
I cranked the motor. It dropped a little and I filled it some more. I ended up putting about 2 and a half Gal. of coolant, and about 2 gal. of distilled water.
I let the motor run, but the temp gauge climbed pretty quick to 220 and showed no sign of slowing down. The electric fans didn't cut on either, so I shut it down.
I unhooked the heater hose on the top of the intake manifold and coolant came out, so I am guessing there's water circulating in the block?
The "iffy" parts about my fan motor wiring are the black ground wires from the motors... Not sure if it's a good ground. ...and the orange wire that goes to the ignition, I hooked into the ignition control wire on the fuse panel...so I was unclear about that. The diagram says orange to ignition...so i am sure I got that wrong.
Any help it GREATLY appreciated!!
last night, near completion..
Okay, first we need to determine whether your thermostat is opening. When your engine reaches 200 degrees, does the top radiator hose feel hot? If so that means your thermostat is opening as intended.
If the thermostat does not open (hose not hot) then the hot coolant won't get to the sending unit that is mounted in the rad to trigger the fans and the coolant will only stay in the engine block and never circulate to the rad properly.
Secondly, do you have the grey wires hooked up to the temperature sending unit mounted in the rad just under the upper rad hose? The sending unit should trigger the fans on at about 195 degrees.
As you mentioned do you have the black wires from the fans grounded properly? I grounded mine to the lower rad mount with a stainless bolt.
The orange wires are only a 12V trigger which energize the relays based on current running to them when the engine is running, they are not high current. So basically any 12v power that is on when the key is on. Wiper circuit, engine circuit, etc.
I connected mine to the brown power wire that runs to the distributor which is only powered on when the ignition is on.
For the two yellow power wires, I connected them directly to a separate fused power connection running directly off my battery (due to the high current draw when the fans are running).
Hope some of this information helps.
10-03-2013, 08:40 AM
#16
Advanced
Thread Starter
It sounds like the only issue here is the fans are not coming on and you don't need the engine running to test this out.
1. Make sure the power wire is run to the battery or battery starter post.
2. Make sure the fuses are not blown
3. The ignition wire should be run to a wire that goes hot when the ignition is turned on. (the wiper motor is a good option) This way the fans won't continue to run when you turn the key to off.
4. The rad/fan kit was supplied with a ground strap, make sure that it is connected to a good ground.
With all that checked, turn the key to ignition, then take the sensor wire off the switch and touch it to ground. if the fans come on, everything is wired correctly. If not, start over.
1. Make sure the power wire is run to the battery or battery starter post.
2. Make sure the fuses are not blown
3. The ignition wire should be run to a wire that goes hot when the ignition is turned on. (the wiper motor is a good option) This way the fans won't continue to run when you turn the key to off.
4. The rad/fan kit was supplied with a ground strap, make sure that it is connected to a good ground.
With all that checked, turn the key to ignition, then take the sensor wire off the switch and touch it to ground. if the fans come on, everything is wired correctly. If not, start over.
The real test will be next summer, here in Phoenix! I'll keep you posted!
10-03-2013, 08:44 AM
#17
Advanced
Thread Starter
I have my Dewitts with the dual spal fans in without any problem and they are working great.
Okay, first we need to determine whether your thermostat is opening. When your engine reaches 200 degrees, does the top radiator hose feel hot? If so that means your thermostat is opening as intended.
If the thermostat does not open (hose not hot) then the hot coolant won't get to the sending unit that is mounted in the rad to trigger the fans and the coolant will only stay in the engine block and never circulate to the rad properly.
Secondly, do you have the grey wires hooked up to the temperature sending unit mounted in the rad just under the upper rad hose? The sending unit should trigger the fans on at about 195 degrees.
As you mentioned do you have the black wires from the fans grounded properly? I grounded mine to the lower rad mount with a stainless bolt.
The orange wires are only a 12V trigger which energize the relays based on current running to them when the engine is running, they are not high current. So basically any 12v power that is on when the key is on. Wiper circuit, engine circuit, etc.
I connected mine to the brown power wire that runs to the distributor which is only powered on when the ignition is on.
For the two yellow power wires, I connected them directly to a separate fused power connection running directly off my battery (due to the high current draw when the fans are running).
Hope some of this information helps.
Okay, first we need to determine whether your thermostat is opening. When your engine reaches 200 degrees, does the top radiator hose feel hot? If so that means your thermostat is opening as intended.
If the thermostat does not open (hose not hot) then the hot coolant won't get to the sending unit that is mounted in the rad to trigger the fans and the coolant will only stay in the engine block and never circulate to the rad properly.
Secondly, do you have the grey wires hooked up to the temperature sending unit mounted in the rad just under the upper rad hose? The sending unit should trigger the fans on at about 195 degrees.
As you mentioned do you have the black wires from the fans grounded properly? I grounded mine to the lower rad mount with a stainless bolt.
The orange wires are only a 12V trigger which energize the relays based on current running to them when the engine is running, they are not high current. So basically any 12v power that is on when the key is on. Wiper circuit, engine circuit, etc.
I connected mine to the brown power wire that runs to the distributor which is only powered on when the ignition is on.
For the two yellow power wires, I connected them directly to a separate fused power connection running directly off my battery (due to the high current draw when the fans are running).
Hope some of this information helps.
10-03-2013, 08:48 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
