Brake booster removal bolt from H**l
10-05-2013, 12:46 PM
#1
Brake booster removal bolt from H**l
The top outboard bolt on the booster firewall is a tough nut.
I've read all the tips to get at it. But with the body off and high on a dolly, IP removed, steering col. removed, clutch rod removed and using a 2 ft extension plus swivel and deep 9/16 socket,,, it still is a pain to get at. Nut is near eye level on the body dolly and I can barely see it and getting a socket on it is not easy. Can't imagine being able to do it without removing all the above.
Plus the nuts are interferance nuts so they fight you all the way to the end.
When replacing the booster, I'm thinking of welding a nut onto a deep socket, welding the socket onto a flex extension shaft, then screwing that assy back in and leaving it there just in case the booster needs to come out again. Any thoughts on this?
I've read all the tips to get at it. But with the body off and high on a dolly, IP removed, steering col. removed, clutch rod removed and using a 2 ft extension plus swivel and deep 9/16 socket,,, it still is a pain to get at. Nut is near eye level on the body dolly and I can barely see it and getting a socket on it is not easy. Can't imagine being able to do it without removing all the above.
Plus the nuts are interferance nuts so they fight you all the way to the end.
When replacing the booster, I'm thinking of welding a nut onto a deep socket, welding the socket onto a flex extension shaft, then screwing that assy back in and leaving it there just in case the booster needs to come out again. Any thoughts on this?
10-05-2013, 01:30 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Yes its BAD! but not that bad! I think your problem is Vette is on body dolly. I took me years for fighting underdash problems before I finally realized, the seats remove easily enough by taking 4 bolts out! Remove seats, get in car on back with feet in strorage area WIN!
10-05-2013, 01:54 PM
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi Steve,
It sounds like you've had a great time!
With all the parts you have removed I'm surprised access is still so difficult.
Your solution seems o.k.; if you do it you know you'll never need to get at the nut again.
It's all in fun!
Regards,
Alan
It sounds like you've had a great time!
With all the parts you have removed I'm surprised access is still so difficult.
Your solution seems o.k.; if you do it you know you'll never need to get at the nut again.
It's all in fun!
Regards,
Alan
10-05-2013, 02:57 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Not trying to be a smart #ss, but I don't understand why this is such a hard job for so many. I've had many far harder jobs to get through. It took me about 5 minutes to remove my booster and I didn't remove my seat or steering column. I put studs in from the inside so it I could just slide the hydroboost on and install the nuts to hold it.
10-05-2013, 03:02 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Not trying to be a smart #ss, but I don't understand why this is such a hard job for so many. I've had many far harder jobs to get through. It took me about 5 minutes to remove my booster and I didn't remove my seat or steering column. I put studs in from the inside so it I could just slide the hydroboost on and install the nuts to hold it.
Same here, but mine's an automatic. Are the stick cars that much harder?
10-05-2013, 03:55 PM
#7
Seat are out. I've taken all the stuff out as per original post. Believe me when I say that it is much easier to do with the body up in the air- you don't have to lay on your back.
Problem is that with a 4 spd, there is a clutch rod and bulky switches right in the road of an extension. The rod is easy to get out since it is a body off. But the clutch switch is in the way and some other brackets. I probably should have taken out the cast piece and it's bracket as well. It may have been a tad easier.
You guys that are saying this is an easy job must be working on an auto tranny. The the clutch pedal, clutch switch and clutch rod isn't in the way. But I would still remove the IP since it is held in by only the trim screws.
With the body on a dolly, it is easy to take off the steering column and clutch rod.
BTW, the booster is ok, but I had to do all this because I needed to get the firewall off since the glue joint and rivets on the A piller let go causing the passenger side of the fender to drop and a big 1 inch gap at the top of the door and fender. The drivers side was starting to go that way as well. For these cars, there is dick-all holding that front clip on. I think I'll put a small bolt between the firewall and the top of the A pillar on each sides when it goes back together. The bolt will be hidden.
Steve L.
73 since new
Problem is that with a 4 spd, there is a clutch rod and bulky switches right in the road of an extension. The rod is easy to get out since it is a body off. But the clutch switch is in the way and some other brackets. I probably should have taken out the cast piece and it's bracket as well. It may have been a tad easier.
You guys that are saying this is an easy job must be working on an auto tranny. The the clutch pedal, clutch switch and clutch rod isn't in the way. But I would still remove the IP since it is held in by only the trim screws.
With the body on a dolly, it is easy to take off the steering column and clutch rod.
BTW, the booster is ok, but I had to do all this because I needed to get the firewall off since the glue joint and rivets on the A piller let go causing the passenger side of the fender to drop and a big 1 inch gap at the top of the door and fender. The drivers side was starting to go that way as well. For these cars, there is dick-all holding that front clip on. I think I'll put a small bolt between the firewall and the top of the A pillar on each sides when it goes back together. The bolt will be hidden.
Steve L.
73 since new