350 block and 327 crank build ?
#1
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350 block and 327 crank build ?
Hello all,
I've got a .030 over 4 bolt 350 #3970010 block, coded V1201TBF on the pad.
I'm pretty sure it has a 327 or a 307 cast crank in it casting #3941174D-1, also stamped 020 over 020 on the forward counterweight.
1423 marked 4 valve relief flat top pistons stamped 30 on top.
3932441 heads.
not sure of the cam as it has that puny 327 harmonic balancer I'm having trouble getting off.
Cylinders have no ridge at the top and everything looks good so far,
I have no idea why they destroked this thing.
I bought it for the block for hundred bucks way way back, just got around to checking it all out with the thought of building it up to replace the motor in the 80 corvette,
my question is, Is this thing worth building up over the winter for a quick replacement of the original motor (1980 L48) or should I throw money at the L48 to get the horse power and torque up higher?
My plan would be to change out all the bearings and rings, just basically freshen it up,
Low Budget is the goal
I've got a .030 over 4 bolt 350 #3970010 block, coded V1201TBF on the pad.
I'm pretty sure it has a 327 or a 307 cast crank in it casting #3941174D-1, also stamped 020 over 020 on the forward counterweight.
1423 marked 4 valve relief flat top pistons stamped 30 on top.
3932441 heads.
not sure of the cam as it has that puny 327 harmonic balancer I'm having trouble getting off.
Cylinders have no ridge at the top and everything looks good so far,
I have no idea why they destroked this thing.
I bought it for the block for hundred bucks way way back, just got around to checking it all out with the thought of building it up to replace the motor in the 80 corvette,
my question is, Is this thing worth building up over the winter for a quick replacement of the original motor (1980 L48) or should I throw money at the L48 to get the horse power and torque up higher?
My plan would be to change out all the bearings and rings, just basically freshen it up,
Low Budget is the goal
#2
Safety Car
Can you tell by the casting line if its forged or not? I'm pretty sure 350 and 327 have the same bore but there is an early small journal 327 crank and the late larger journal crank.
#3
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it's thin so it's a cast crank, large journal, same 4.00 bore but a shorter stroke
short block is all put together, just dont know why they went with that combination or why they took it out.
short block is all put together, just dont know why they went with that combination or why they took it out.
#4
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So, basically.....it's a large journal, 327 small block. What's wrong with that, if you don't mind having 23 less cubic inches? If you're looking to do it on the cheap, then yeah, sure, go for it. Nothing wrong with a 327, some people prefer 'em over a 350. I'm not one of them, though, I say, the more displacement, the better. Have you looked at getting a stroker crank and making a 383? You can do it for pretty short money, nowadays.
Scott
Scott
#5
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I agree with scotty ,consider a 383 rotating assembly using the best block.383 rotating assemblies start at $600 and up at competition products.you could rebuild the l48 using new pistons and bearings.
#6
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I guess first things first. I'll take it to the machine shop and they can tell me if its even any good without having to throw a ton of money at it in machine work.
The L48 runs pretty well with only 63,000 miles so maybe just run whatcha brung and put a cam and aluminum top end.
Depending on if it needs machining at all My 17 year old kid wants to have a stab at rebuilding it so it may be his project. Now talk about low budget!!! Maybe just use it as a puzzle for a while.
The L48 runs pretty well with only 63,000 miles so maybe just run whatcha brung and put a cam and aluminum top end.
Depending on if it needs machining at all My 17 year old kid wants to have a stab at rebuilding it so it may be his project. Now talk about low budget!!! Maybe just use it as a puzzle for a while.
#7
Melting Slicks
I "destroked" a 350 to a 327 for my 72 Chevy pickup and LOVE it. Since you have all the parts there I would run with it!
#8
Drifting
Depends on what your end game is and how much you want (or don't want) to spend.
While the 327 was/is a great little motor, it IS a little motor.
If you are looking for bullet-proof reliability on the cheap, this isn't a bad way to go. However, if you want any kind of performance from a C3, a base 327 build isn't going to do it.
It will be a nice cruiser and run like a Timex watch but don't expect to win anything at the stop-light drags.
Just sayin'
While the 327 was/is a great little motor, it IS a little motor.
If you are looking for bullet-proof reliability on the cheap, this isn't a bad way to go. However, if you want any kind of performance from a C3, a base 327 build isn't going to do it.
It will be a nice cruiser and run like a Timex watch but don't expect to win anything at the stop-light drags.
Just sayin'
#10
Melting Slicks
As i was once told "The words "cheap" and "Corvette" do not exist in the same context." It's all relative... to the depth of your pockets.
#13
Le Mans Master
Reasonably expensive + smart = reliable and fast 'Vette.
All forged + aftermarket block + etc. = never gets built.
You can have all three - if you're smart and know what you're doing. A good engine in the chassis and running is way better than an "amazing" engine that sits on the stand or only exists in your stack of Summit catalogs...
Dump the 327 crank - someone will want it, but there's no replacement for displacement, period. Besides - by the time you pay a shop to turn it, you're pretty close to the price of a quality aftermarket cast 383 crank.
Cast-crank 383 with Vortec heads around $3,500...that's a lot of cheap, reliable and fast
You're on the right track to start - step one is to get the block 'fluxed and pressure-tested and see what the bores will clean up at.
All forged + aftermarket block + etc. = never gets built.
You can have all three - if you're smart and know what you're doing. A good engine in the chassis and running is way better than an "amazing" engine that sits on the stand or only exists in your stack of Summit catalogs...
Dump the 327 crank - someone will want it, but there's no replacement for displacement, period. Besides - by the time you pay a shop to turn it, you're pretty close to the price of a quality aftermarket cast 383 crank.
Cast-crank 383 with Vortec heads around $3,500...that's a lot of cheap, reliable and fast
You're on the right track to start - step one is to get the block 'fluxed and pressure-tested and see what the bores will clean up at.
Last edited by billla; 11-02-2013 at 02:22 PM.