drwet

Okay. The manual trans swap is well underway. Pedals are in. Z-bar is in. Pretty much finished topside for now. Started working on getting the auto trans out today.

Turns out the slip yoke I have for the TKO 600 requires the u-joint to be pressed in. That's not a big problem, except the original slip yoke is a strap style and its hard enough to get the driveshaft out when you can unbolt the driveshaft from the slip yoke.

So, two questions. Is it a big deal to install the driveshaft with the slip yoke attached? And does anyone know of a source for a strap style slip yoke for the TKO with a 1330 u-joint? (Found a strap style slip yoke on eBay but it takes a 1350 u-joint.)

gve

Keisler has them

Joe0121

When I first saw this I was wondering why bother and just buy one that has a manual. Then I went on craigslist and auto trader. Did they even make C3's with manuals? My goodness finding a C3 with a clutch for less than $50K is like finding the fountain of youth.

Where did your source your manual?

drwet

I've been collecting the parts for the swap for a couple of years. Got the pedals on eBay. Had the bellhousing kicking around. Bought a new CenterForce clutch. Bought a new Tremec TKO 600 from Modern Driveline. There are lots of sources for the trans if you buy new. I picked Modern Driveline because I met the owner at the Car Craft Summer Nationals in St Paul a couple of years ago and he was willing to share a bunch of useful info with me.

iokepakai

Dennys Driveshaft...Has the slip yoke with straps....

drwet

I've got the transmission in place and it has become clear that the General used a strap style slip yoke for a very good reason. The only way to install the driveshaft with a press in style slip yoke would be to install the transmission before the engine, or to drop the differential. Strap style slip yokes are only available for 1310 u-joints and 1350 u-joints. (The driveshaft uses 1330 u-joints.) I could use the 1310 slip yoke and get a conversion u-joint (1310-1330) but I'm concerned the 1310 u-joint might not be strong enough. A couple of guys on this forum have expressed the opinion that the 1310 is actually the stronger of the two u-joints. Anyone have any data to back that up? As for the 1350 yoke, there doesn't appear to be a 1350-1330 conversion u-joint available and I'm not sure the 1350 will fit in the trans tunnel anyway. So what has everyone else who has installed a Tremec TKO 600 or 500 done for a slip yoke?

Solid LT1

The 1310 joints lived behind the L-88 Vette.......

Kiesler has the 1310 bolt yoke. I think I have seen Hurst or someone has a 1330 bolt yoke but, from the looks of it you will have clearance problems with the seat belt reinforcements as it is offset to the rear. I intend to stupidly try the 1310 behind my 500+HP LS3 conversion. The output on the Tremec is same as Ford C6 transmission, I think the 1330 yoke was used by a mid 60's Lincon as I recall.

Tomi72

I have 1350 sized yoke from Mark Williams behind my TKO 600. I had no problem finding the 1350/1330 conversion joint through my local speed shop, I think the joint was from Precision. Summit racing seem to have few other available: http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...350-conversion

It is a tight fit with the bigger yoke, I ended up grinding the tunnel a bit to make room for it.

drwet

Thank you for that information. That's exactly what I needed to hear.
I just spent an hour with a buddy who works in a local parts store and he finally came up with a number for the 1350-1330 conversion joint. I didn't think to try Summit

You must have a fiberglass floor pan. Mine is metal in the '79 so I can modify mine with a hammer. How much clearance did you need?

Tomi72

Very little clearancing was actually needed, I'd say just 1/8" more room on a big coin sized spot. The yoke was touching the tunnel only when accelerating hard and the engine twisted a bit towards the passenger side. I do have fiberglass floors, if the steel floors are the same shape just a few taps with hammer would achieve the same clearance.