69bones

What can I look for on my 1969 to confirm that it was originally a 350/350? The engine has been swapped out. I see the plate reporting 350hp on the console but those can be replaced easily. The transmission is an m22 and the rear end is 3:70.

LeMans Pete

Hey Bones,

Of course the engine is what makes the L46 what it is. Look for a 6000 redline tachometer.

No L46s were paired with the M22. You can verify this yourself, the partial VIN is stamped on the transmission.

Easy Mike

Factory documentation would be the best source. Any chance the PO has any of the paperwork?

Alan 71

Hi 69,
I believe transistor ignition was available on the optional 350 hp engine.
Any sign of the pulse amplifier or it's mounting holes on the front side of the driver's-side apron?
That might give an indication of what the car's original engine was.
Regards,
Alan

restoman1

If the axle is original (and you'll have to check the date code and suffix), it started life as an L46 with an M21. Are you sure the transmission is an M22? Like Pete said, check the transmission suffix and partial VIN.

By the way, what's your VIN?

Ed

69bones

Sounds like I am going to have to get under there and get some more information.

The tach shows yellow at 5500 and red at 6000.

I don't know for a fact that the transmission is a m22. The PO gave me a folder full of receipts but nothing from before 2000. He said it was an m22 but now I am questioning that as a fact the whole way around.

I will have to look up where a pulse amplifier would have been mounted to check.

It sounds like I should do a sweep for all the numbers I can collect the next time I have it up on jacks. Maybe in a day or two from now I will have time. What other number am I scraping for? Trans, rear end, axle (=driveshaft, correct?)

194679s728xxx

And thanks for the replies!

LeMans Pete

The pulse amplifier can be tricky to locate. It would be on the driver's side front nose. Sometimes you can see it if you open the hood and look down the front of it, to the left of the headlight.

The location was not always exact.

69bones

Thanks Pete! I'll look fort that too when I am collecting info.

LeMans Pete

The simplest way to verify that the amplifier is there is to look in your front left wheel well. You should see three nuts that will be holding the amplifier in place. I just thought of this, much easier than placing your eyes on the amplifier, especially if you do not know what you are looking for.

restoman1

Bones, don't get your hopes up on the K66 (transistor ignition). While finding reminants of it could possibly validate the car as being an original L46 (although over the years it could have been added), not finding it wouldn't INVALIDATE it! Only 5,702 people opted for K66 in 1969, (approx 15 percent), so having a car with it will be slim. If you don't have it, don't fret, the car could still be an L46. You have the correct tach, so that's a good start. The transmission and axle codes will probably clinch the deal.

Ed

69bones

I don't see that hardware or holes from it being there before. Looks like that option wasn't ordered

restoman1

I didn't think you'd find it, but like I said, don't fret.

To check the axle code, jack up the rear of the car and put it on jack stands. (Make sure you chock the front tires so the car doesn't move on you.) Once you've verified the car is safe to crawl under, get under there and look at the bottom of the differential housing, between the spring retainer plate and the camber strut rod bracket. You'll need to be directly under the housing, looking up to see the code. HERE'S AN EXAMPLE of what you should be looking for. You may have to clean it up a bit to see it, but once you have all the numbers/letters showing, write it down and let us know what you find.

The Muncie code and partial VIN will be on the passenger side of the transmission and may be difficult to see. You may have to clean it off as well. HERE'S AN EXAMPLE on where to look (in the picture, the partial VIN is in the red rectangle and the date code is just in front of that, but it may not be exactly like that on your transmission). Again, write it all down and let us know what you find.

Ed

Solid LT1

Look at engine block above oil filter mount, your looking for 010/020 casting ID to signify high nickle/tin 4 bolt main block. If Vette is early build won't have this feature.

7t9l82

the first and easiest place i look is the harmonic balancer. if its the 8 inch like the LT-1 and L-82 i start looking for other signs to verify it.


sorry didn't see the original engine is missing.

restoman1

No, unfortunately that's an old wives tale. The 10 and 20 indicate the last two digits of the casting number. Either 3970010 or 3970020. And the OP doesn't have his original engine.

Ed

Mike Ward

Don't waste your breath. Some people just won't let go of an old myth no matter how much proof is out there.

69bones

Hey guys - this is how I read what I see - P9K10B on the transmission. And the serial number does match the VIN

On the axle I see - 0J237 W8E1. Not so sure about my reading so picks are attached.

This was the best I could do quickly at this late hour - if these aren't legible I will need to do more cleaning.

69bones

While we are in the numbers matching mode I included the block stamps as well in case anyone can identify the origin of that too. On the rear is 3970010 and on the front it looks like VI130TBG. Thanks in advance!

63mako

Engine stamp. V= Flint, 11= Nov, 30 = day, TBG= 1971 350 255HP conventional cab, a/t,
This is a 1971 255 HP 4 bbl 350 truck engine built in Flint Michigan on Nov 30 1970 for a pickup with automatic transmission.

69bones

Thanks mako! I bought the car knowing that was definitely not original and quit looking at the rest of the numbers. It's interesting that the block at least came from a vehicle manufactured close to the same time as the Vette. Does that make it likely to be a four bolt main? Not to rage a debate over the value or lack thereof for an engine pushing around 400hp. . I read recently that bigger trucks were the recipients of four bolt mains. Just curious about what else I could know about it now that you decoded that fact.

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm says it could be a two or a four.