Vette Magazine-All About Oil Article-March 2014
01-11-2014, 09:33 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Vette Magazine-All About Oil Article-March 2014
Below is a VERY comprehensive article about everything you would want to know about oils from the March 2014 Vette Magazine. Some very interesting points:
1. There is seems to have emerged an new category of oils other than Group 1-5, called Group III+base stock oils. I assume that is almost all the US marketed "Full synthetic" that are not True Group IV PAO synthetics that includes most Mobil 1 (except Mobil 1 5W-50, OW-40 European Formula, and OW-50 Racing), Penzoil, Castrol Syntec, Shell, etc.
2. Oil additives of any kind are NOT recommended being added to oils
3. For older vettes, Mobil recommends 15W-50 for its higher ZDDP levels-I have used it for years in my 78 L-82. For Corvettes with no cats or track only vettes, Mobil recommends Mobil 1 0W-50 racing. Mobil 15W-50 is also recommend for owners who want to put their cars on a track, not track only, as well as for C4-C7 vettes that are street driven and wish to take their cars onto the track (draining whatever oil is in the car before going on the track and replacing with Mobil 1 15W-50 for the track day), surprisingly. Brad Penn is mentioned as well as Driven Racing Oils
4. Diesel oil should NOT be used in corvettes.
5. Racing only oils should be changed at 500 mile intervals
6. Mineral oils should be used for engine (cam) breaking in for both flat tappet AND roller cammed engines. Apparently roller cammed retro fit engines according to the article require break in as well.
7. "High quality synthetic or semi synthetic blend oil should always be used in your corvette."
8. "It doesn't matter if your ride used conventional oil until now; switching to synthetics won't cause any problems"
9. "today's synthetic oil technology makes it vastly superior to mineral oil, period"
10. Lastly for the oil Sticky on this forum and specifically to Billa who graciously and tirelessly put together the thread, Mobil 1 15W-50 which has 1,200/1,300 PPM Phosphorous/Zinc AND is still API certified because this weight of oil 15W-50 is EXEMPT from the lower level ZDDP needed to be API certified.
I have used Mobil 1 15W-50 for years in my L-82 flat tappet cammed engine and Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula (1,000 PPM ZDDP) in all my other modern cars including my 10 Z06 (not Mobil 1 5W-30 specified by GM). Mobil 1 OW-40 was the factory fill for european delivered Z06's.
The article is a little difficult to read and is intended to help clarify the confusion surrounding oil technology and its use in all vettes. Just one article and point of view. I am NOT advocating the use of MOBIL 1 only, just for clarification. I just happen to use it since it offers many benefits for what I am looking for at a very reasonable price. Hope that helps.
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1. There is seems to have emerged an new category of oils other than Group 1-5, called Group III+base stock oils. I assume that is almost all the US marketed "Full synthetic" that are not True Group IV PAO synthetics that includes most Mobil 1 (except Mobil 1 5W-50, OW-40 European Formula, and OW-50 Racing), Penzoil, Castrol Syntec, Shell, etc.
2. Oil additives of any kind are NOT recommended being added to oils
3. For older vettes, Mobil recommends 15W-50 for its higher ZDDP levels-I have used it for years in my 78 L-82. For Corvettes with no cats or track only vettes, Mobil recommends Mobil 1 0W-50 racing. Mobil 15W-50 is also recommend for owners who want to put their cars on a track, not track only, as well as for C4-C7 vettes that are street driven and wish to take their cars onto the track (draining whatever oil is in the car before going on the track and replacing with Mobil 1 15W-50 for the track day), surprisingly. Brad Penn is mentioned as well as Driven Racing Oils
4. Diesel oil should NOT be used in corvettes.
5. Racing only oils should be changed at 500 mile intervals
6. Mineral oils should be used for engine (cam) breaking in for both flat tappet AND roller cammed engines. Apparently roller cammed retro fit engines according to the article require break in as well.
7. "High quality synthetic or semi synthetic blend oil should always be used in your corvette."
8. "It doesn't matter if your ride used conventional oil until now; switching to synthetics won't cause any problems"
9. "today's synthetic oil technology makes it vastly superior to mineral oil, period"
10. Lastly for the oil Sticky on this forum and specifically to Billa who graciously and tirelessly put together the thread, Mobil 1 15W-50 which has 1,200/1,300 PPM Phosphorous/Zinc AND is still API certified because this weight of oil 15W-50 is EXEMPT from the lower level ZDDP needed to be API certified.
I have used Mobil 1 15W-50 for years in my L-82 flat tappet cammed engine and Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula (1,000 PPM ZDDP) in all my other modern cars including my 10 Z06 (not Mobil 1 5W-30 specified by GM). Mobil 1 OW-40 was the factory fill for european delivered Z06's.
The article is a little difficult to read and is intended to help clarify the confusion surrounding oil technology and its use in all vettes. Just one article and point of view. I am NOT advocating the use of MOBIL 1 only, just for clarification. I just happen to use it since it offers many benefits for what I am looking for at a very reasonable price. Hope that helps.
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Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-12-2014 at 08:58 PM.
01-11-2014, 12:01 PM
#4
Race Director
High viscosity oils have issues of their own. 90% of wear occurs at startup. At startup a thinner oil get to where it needs to be almost immediately. Higher viscosity moves slow when colder and will take considerably longer to flow to all the areas in the engine. This is even more important in cars that sit for extended periods. I remember back in the day you would start your car when it was cold and had set for a while you would have valvetrain rattle happening for a while at startup until the oil got to where it needed to be. This is when the wear is occurring. A 0W-40 and a 15-W 40 will be the same viscosity at operating temperature.
Your point #1 is true. Amsoil and Royal Purple are the only two true synthetics (Group IV basestocks) available that I know of until recently. Now The MOBIL 1 0W-40 European formula is available at Wal-Mart auto-zone and many other suppliers. It is the least expensive TRUE full synthetic (Group IV) I have seen, has over 1000 PPM ZDDP and is all most corvettes will ever need. If you can run this and still see over 10 PSI oil pressure per 1000 RMP (90% will see over 20 PSI at idle, twice what you actually need)it has several advantages and won't break the bank. The corvette endurance racing or autocross events I would also recommend a 0W-50 - 15W-50 true synthetic as the higher the oil temp the less the viscocity and extended high rpm will heat it up. Good post and info!!
Your point #1 is true. Amsoil and Royal Purple are the only two true synthetics (Group IV basestocks) available that I know of until recently. Now The MOBIL 1 0W-40 European formula is available at Wal-Mart auto-zone and many other suppliers. It is the least expensive TRUE full synthetic (Group IV) I have seen, has over 1000 PPM ZDDP and is all most corvettes will ever need. If you can run this and still see over 10 PSI oil pressure per 1000 RMP (90% will see over 20 PSI at idle, twice what you actually need)it has several advantages and won't break the bank. The corvette endurance racing or autocross events I would also recommend a 0W-50 - 15W-50 true synthetic as the higher the oil temp the less the viscocity and extended high rpm will heat it up. Good post and info!!
Last edited by 63mako; 01-11-2014 at 12:07 PM.
01-11-2014, 03:38 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
High viscosity oils have issues of their own. 90% of wear occurs at startup. At startup a thinner oil get to where it needs to be almost immediately. Higher viscosity moves slow when colder and will take considerably longer to flow to all the areas in the engine. This is even more important in cars that sit for extended periods. I remember back in the day you would start your car when it was cold and had set for a while you would have valvetrain rattle happening for a while at startup until the oil got to where it needed to be. This is when the wear is occurring. A 0W-40 and a 15-W 40 will be the same viscosity at operating temperature.
Your point #1 is true. Amsoil and Royal Purple are the only two true synthetics (Group IV basestocks) available that I know of until recently. Now The MOBIL 1 0W-40 European formula is available at Wal-Mart auto-zone and many other suppliers. It is the least expensive TRUE full synthetic (Group IV) I have seen, has over 1000 PPM ZDDP and is all most corvettes will ever need. If you can run this and still see over 10 PSI oil pressure per 1000 RMP (90% will see over 20 PSI at idle, twice what you actually need)it has several advantages and won't break the bank. The corvette endurance racing or autocross events I would also recommend a 0W-50 - 15W-50 true synthetic as the higher the oil temp the less the viscocity and extended high rpm will heat it up. Good post and info!!
Your point #1 is true. Amsoil and Royal Purple are the only two true synthetics (Group IV basestocks) available that I know of until recently. Now The MOBIL 1 0W-40 European formula is available at Wal-Mart auto-zone and many other suppliers. It is the least expensive TRUE full synthetic (Group IV) I have seen, has over 1000 PPM ZDDP and is all most corvettes will ever need. If you can run this and still see over 10 PSI oil pressure per 1000 RMP (90% will see over 20 PSI at idle, twice what you actually need)it has several advantages and won't break the bank. The corvette endurance racing or autocross events I would also recommend a 0W-50 - 15W-50 true synthetic as the higher the oil temp the less the viscocity and extended high rpm will heat it up. Good post and info!!
I agree with you completely about the higher viscosity issues especially with cars that sit for long periods like my L-82. I only drive my 78 from April through November so very cold temperature startup issues are a minor issue. In addition, I never start the 78 without first priming the engine with the starter motor, whenever, I start the car. Rather than starting the car immediately by depressing the gas pedal to set the electric choke, I just let it crank with the starter for about 5-10 seconds at a time, with a brief rest between each interval, until the oil pressure climbs to 40 lbs. Then I set the choke with the gas pedal and she roars to life.
Here's a little known fact most people do not know about modern cars with fuel injection. You can prime the engine as well from the driver's seat without starting the car. On my 2010 Z06 which sits most of the time, if you floor the gas pedal and hit the start button while you hold the pedal to the floor, the engine will NOT start, just crank over. I wait until the pressure hits about 50 lbs on the Z06 and you can either just take your foot off the gas pedal or engage the start procedure as you normally would with your foot off the gas pedal and the LS7 will fire. Most all modern cars have this feature which is to clear a gas flood condition. Totally eliminated all valve train clatter at start up!!
01-12-2014, 08:19 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Great read jb78L-82, thanks for the info......
In my 82, which now has 108,000 plus, I have been using Castrol Edge
with SYNTEC (specially formulated for Classic Cars) SAE 5W-50 for the last 18 months, which is my "dd". I end up getting discounts at the parts store and save about $10 or more for oil & filter purchase. I don't know what the zinc content is, but it does state on the rear of the label;
"increased zinc levels for extra engine wear protection". I went with this because it is a 5W @ start-up & of course a 50W @ operating temps.
With the 82, on initial start-up, I always let the pump run and prime the injectors, then start, even with the very cold weather we have had here in the NE, oil pressure is just about instant, with no starting and or oil pressure problems at all. I have used Mobil 1 for years and tried some others, but the Castrol is at a good price, and this particular formula is not available everywhere. It's also good to know about the Mobil 1 0W-40.
And this will make some cringe,
I change the oil & filter every 10,000 miles, which amounts to twice a year. I know, I may be 
but it works for me......again, great read....................Tom
In my 82, which now has 108,000 plus, I have been using Castrol Edge
with SYNTEC (specially formulated for Classic Cars) SAE 5W-50 for the last 18 months, which is my "dd". I end up getting discounts at the parts store and save about $10 or more for oil & filter purchase. I don't know what the zinc content is, but it does state on the rear of the label;
"increased zinc levels for extra engine wear protection". I went with this because it is a 5W @ start-up & of course a 50W @ operating temps.
With the 82, on initial start-up, I always let the pump run and prime the injectors, then start, even with the very cold weather we have had here in the NE, oil pressure is just about instant, with no starting and or oil pressure problems at all. I have used Mobil 1 for years and tried some others, but the Castrol is at a good price, and this particular formula is not available everywhere. It's also good to know about the Mobil 1 0W-40.
And this will make some cringe,
I change the oil & filter every 10,000 miles, which amounts to twice a year. I know, I may be but it works for me......again, great read....................Tom
01-13-2014, 06:31 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I would suggest one change to the oil sticky which may confuse some readers:
You state under Mobil 1 15W-50 on the sticky that "It still remains unclear to me how Mobile 1 can claim API SM/SN compliance when the oil is exempt by grade and far exceeds the maximum ppm ZDDP allowed."
The article confirms that contradiction and explains under the "Added-Protection Oils" section that "And even though it (Mobil 1 15W-50, my addition) has around 1,200 ppm phosphorous and 1,300 ppm Zinc, it's still API certified, as this viscosity isn't required to have the lower ZDDP level."
Want to make that change? Thanks
01-13-2014, 10:26 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
I still see the two as contradictory. The sticky is clear that it's exempt by grade from the API SN spec, but it can't be compliant with a spec it's exempt from - essentially it's not covered by the spec, so it's hard for it to claim compliance with the spec.
I'll change the wording a bit.
Mobile 1 claims SN approval for this oil, although the grade (15W50) is not included in that specification. Regardless, it contains the right amount of ZDDP for flat-tappet cams.
I'll change the wording a bit.
Mobile 1 claims SN approval for this oil, although the grade (15W50) is not included in that specification. Regardless, it contains the right amount of ZDDP for flat-tappet cams.
Last edited by billla; 01-13-2014 at 10:33 AM.
01-13-2014, 10:56 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I still see the two as contradictory. The sticky is clear that it's exempt by grade from the API SN spec, but it can't be compliant with a spec it's exempt from - essentially it's not covered by the spec, so it's hard for it to claim compliance with the spec.
I'll change the wording a bit.
Mobile 1 claims SN approval for this oil, although the grade (15W50) is not included in that specification. Regardless, it contains the right amount of ZDDP for flat-tappet cams.
I'll change the wording a bit.
Mobile 1 claims SN approval for this oil, although the grade (15W50) is not included in that specification. Regardless, it contains the right amount of ZDDP for flat-tappet cams.
01-13-2014, 01:20 PM
#11
Pro
Member Since: Apr 2006
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You can’t always count on high zinc motor oil. I’ve performed Engineering “Wear Protection Capability” testing on a group 40 different high zinc oils to see how high zinc oils compare among themselves. And the fact is, not all high zinc oils provide the same wear protection.
The OP’s information recommended Mobil 1 15W50 because of it high zinc level. Well, don’t believe everything you read. It does NOT provide the wear protection you think it does. It ranked only 21st out of the 40 high zinc oils tested. And its viscosity is way too thick for almost any application. See below for details:
Wear protection reference categories are:
• Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection
• 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection
• 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection
• 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection
• Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection
The higher the psi number, the better the wear protection.
1. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phos = 3489 ppm
ZDDP= 3000 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.
2. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
NOTE: Due to its very low TBN value, this oil is only suitable for short term racing use, and is not suitable for street use.
3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
4. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
5. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil synthetic = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
ZDDP = 2100 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.
6. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil synthetic = 95,360 psi
zinc = 1431 ppm
phos = 1441 ppm
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
7. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL semi-synthetic = 90,226 psi
zinc = 1221 ppm
phos = 955 ppm
ZDDP = 1000 ppm
8. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil synthetic = 86,270 psi
zinc = 1247 ppm
phos = 1137 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
9. 15W40 RED LINE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4/CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CF/CH-4/CF-4/SM/SL/SH/EO-O = 85,663 psi
zinc = 1615 ppm
phos = 1551 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
10. 5W30 Lucas API SM synthetic = 76,584 psi
zinc = 1134 ppm
phos = 666 ppm
ZDDP = 900 ppm
11. 5W50 Castrol Edge with Syntec API SN, synthetic, formerly Castrol Syntec, black bottle = 75,409 psi
zinc = 1252 ppm
phos = 1197 ppm
ZDDP = 1200 ppm
12. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) synthetic = 74,860 psi
zinc = 1421 ppm
phos = 1338 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
13. 5W40 MOBIL 1 TURBO DIESEL TRUCK synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4 and ACEA E7 = 74,312 psi
zinc = 1211 ppm
phos = 1168 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
14. 15W40 CHEVRON DELO 400LE Diesel Oil, conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM, = 73,520 psi
zinc = 1519 ppm
phos = 1139 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
15. 15W40 MOBIL DELVAC 1300 SUPER Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4/SM, SL = 73,300 psi
zinc = 1297 ppm
phos = 1944 ppm
ZDDP = 1600 ppm
16. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi
zinc = 1325ppm
phos = 1234 ppm
ZDDP = 1200 ppm
17. 15W40 “NEW” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM = 72,022 psi
zinc = 1454 ppm
phos = 1062 ppm
ZDDP = 1200 ppm
18. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
zinc = 1621 ppm
phos = 1437 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
19. 15W40 “OLD” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4,CG-4,CF-4,CF,SL, SJ, SH = 71,214 psi
zinc = 1171 ppm
phos = 1186 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
20. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
ZDDP = 1600 ppm
21. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 70,235 psi
zinc = 1133 ppm
phos = 1,168 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
22. 30wt Edelbrock Break-In Oil conventional = 69,160 psi
zinc = 1545 ppm
phos = 1465 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
23. 10W40 Edelbrock synthetic = 68,603 psi
zinc = 1193 ppm
phos = 1146 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
24. 15W40 LUCAS MAGNUM Diesel Oil, conventional, API CI-4,CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL = 66,476 psi
zinc = 1441 ppm
phos = 1234 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
25. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) synthetic = 66,211 psi
zinc = 1774 ppm
phos = 1347 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
26. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi
zinc = 1154 ppm
phos = 1075 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
27. 5W30 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 64,175 psi
zinc = 1765 ppm
phos = 2468 ppm
ZDDP = 2100 ppm
28. “ZDDPlus” added to Royal Purple 20W50, API SN, synthetic = 63,595 psi
zinc = 2436 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2053 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
ZDDP = 2200 ppm
The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 24% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Most major Oil Companies say to NEVER add anything to their oils, because adding anything will upset the carefully balanced additive package, and ruin the oil’s chemical composition. And that is precisely what we see here. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
29. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
zinc = 1170 ppm
phos = 1039 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
30. 10W30 Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Hi-Performance Oil, conventional = 62,538 psi
zinc = 2116 ppm
phos = 1855 ppm
ZDDP = 1900 ppm
31. 10W30 Comp Cams Muscle Car & Street Rod Oil, synthetic blend = 60,413 psi
zinc = 1673 ppm
phos = 1114 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
32. 10W40 Torco TR-1 Racing Oil with MPZ conventional = 59,905 psi
zinc = 1456 ppm
phos = 1150 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
33. “ZDDPlus” added to O’Reilly (house brand) 5W30, API SN, conventional = 56,728 psi
zinc = 2711 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2172 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
ZDDP = 2400 ppm
The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 38% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
34. 10W40 Summit Racing Premium Racing Oil, API SL conventional = 59,483 psi
zinc = 1764 ppm
phos = 1974 ppm
Claimed ZDDP level on the bottle = 1800 ppm
NOTE: Summit discontinued this line of oil, as of spring of 2013.
35. “ZDDPlus” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 56,243 psi
zinc = 2955 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2114 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
ZDDP = 2500 ppm
The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 12% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
36. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Royal Purple 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 54,044 psi
zinc = 1515 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1334 ppm (up 517 ppm)
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a whopping 36% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
37. 10W30 Comp Cams Break-In Oil conventional = 51,749 psi
zinc = 3004 ppm
phos = 2613 ppm
ZDDP = 2800 ppm
38. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Lucas 5W30, API SN, conventional = 51,545 psi
zinc = 1565 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1277 ppm (up 517 ppm)
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a “breath taking” 44% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
39. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 50,202 psi
zinc = 1680 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1275 ppm (up 517 ppm)
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 22% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
40. 30wt Lucas Break-In Oil conventional = 49,455 psi
zinc = 4483 ppm
phos = 3660 ppm
ZDDP = 4000 ppm
So, as you saw above, the highest ranking high zinc oil that provided the BEST WEAR PROTECTION of this group of 40 high zinc oils, had 3000 ppm ZDDP. But, the lowest ranking high zinc oil had one third MORE ZDDP at 4000 ppm. Even though this lowest ranked oil had far more zinc in it, it provided LESS THAN HALF AS MUCH WEAR PROTECTION, making it by far the worst of all 40 oils tested. Then the 4th place oil had only 1100 ppm ZDDP, and the 7th place oil had only 1000 ppm ZDDP.
So, the results above show:
1. My tester and test procedure have no problem at all showing excellent performing high zinc oils. The fact is, my oil testing performs worst case torture testing on motor oil. So, an oil HAS TO BE GOOD to produce good results. And we saw that many high zinc oils produced excellent results here.
2. This is ABSOLUTE PROOF that not all high zinc oils have equal wear protection capabilities. And why would anyone think that all high zinc oils are good? Not all tires are good. Not all cylinder heads are good. Not all camshafts are good. The world just doesn’t work that way. Some high zinc oils are quite good and provide excellent wear protection, while other high zinc oils are not good at all, and provide rather poor wear protection. It just depends on the particular oil in question. And that makes it totally clear here, that you simply CANNOT predict an oil’s wear protection capability by looking only at its zinc level. Life is just NOT that simple. If you only look at zinc levels, that is no better than guessing. So, if anyone tells you that you need high levels of zinc for more wear protection, even if it comes from a Cam Company, don’t believe a word of it. Because as you can see above, they have no idea what they are talking about. Would you really want to use the 40th ranked last place oil simply because it has more zinc than the number one ranked oil here? That is just what you’d be doing if you believed the incorrect advice about only looking at zinc levels. In fact, MANY WIPED FLAT TAPPET LOBES COULD HAVE BEEN AVOIDED, INCLUDING DURING BREAK-IN, if people had not blindly believed that all high zinc oils provide all the wear protection they need. Because nothing could be further from the truth.
3. A motor oil’s wear protection capability is determined by its base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, with the emphasis on its additive package which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, and NOT simply by how much zinc is present. The ONLY way to know for sure how much wear protection any given oil can provide, is to look at “dynamic wear testing under load” results, such as I have provided above.
My motor oil testing, is very similar in concept to dyno testing an engine. An engine dyno test is also dynamic testing under load. For the guys who just want to look at a motor oil zinc level reference chart, that is like looking at an engine’s build sheet instead of its dyno print out. Which do you think has more value?
For actual motor oil facts, go to the link at the bottom of my reply, and read my entire motor oil testing write-up, then decide for yourself what you want to believe. Actual test data facts, or the common high zinc MYTH? The engine you save, may be your own.
VISCOSITY SELECTION:
• Thinner oil flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating critical engine components much more quickly than thicker oil can. Most engine wear takes place during cold start-up before oil flow can reach all the components. So, quicker flowing thinner oil will help reduce start-up engine wear, which is actually reducing wear overall.
• The more free flowing thinner oil at cold start-up, is also much less likely to cause the oil filter bypass to open up, compared to thicker oil. Of course if the bypass opened up, that would allow unfiltered oil to be pumped through the engine. The colder the ambient temperature, and the more rpm used when the engine is cold, the more important this becomes.
• Thinner oil also flows more at normal operating temperatures. And oil FLOW is lubrication, but oil pressure is NOT lubrication. Oil pressure is only a measurement of resistance to flow. Running thicker oil just to up the oil pressure is the wrong thing to do, because that only reduces oil flow/lubrication. Oil pressure in and of itself, is NOT what we are after.
• The more free flowing thinner oil will also drain back to the oil pan quicker than thicker oil. So, thinner oil can help maintain a higher oil level in the oil pan during operation, which keeps the oil pump pickup from possibly sucking air during braking and cornering.
• The old rule of thumb that we should have at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm is perfectly fine. Running thicker oil to achieve more pressure than that, will simply reduce oil flow for no good reason. It is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain at least the rule of thumb oil pressure. And one of the benefits of running a high volume oil pump, is that it will allow us to enjoy all the benefits of running thinner oil, while still maintaining sufficient oil pressure. A high volume oil pump/thinner oil combo is preferred over running a standard volume oil pump/thicker oil combo. Because oil “flow” is our goal for ideal oiling, NOT simply high oil pressure.
• Oil flow is what carries heat away from internal engine components. Those engine components are DIRECTLY oil cooled, but only INdirectly water cooled. And better flowing thinner oil will keep critical engine components cooler because it carries heat away faster. If you run thicker oil than needed, you will be driving up engine component temps. For example: Plain bearings, such as rod and main bearings are lubricated by oil flow, not by oil pressure. Oil pressure is NOT what keeps these parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply the oil to this interface. The parts are kept apart by the incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge that is formed as the liquid oil is pulled in between the spinning parts. As long as sufficient oil is supplied, no wear can occur. In addition to this, the flow of oil through the bearings is what cools them. So, thinner oil will flow more, and thus cool the bearings better, as well as lubricate the bearings better than thicker oil.
• Thinner oil will typically increase HP because of less viscous drag and reduced pumping losses, compared to thicker oils. That is why very serious Race efforts will generally use watery thin oils in their engines. But, an exception to this increase in HP would be in high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, where thinner oil can allow the lifters to malfunction at very high rpm. In everyday street vehicles, where fuel consumption is a consideration, thinner oils will also typically increase fuel economy. The majority of new cars sold in the U.S. now call for 5W20 specifically for increased fuel economy. And now Diesel trucks are increasingly calling for 5W30, also for fuel economy improvement.
• With the exception of high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the first number cold viscosity rating, the better the cold flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better cold than 20W50. And 0W30 flows WAY better cold than straight 30wt, which is horrible for cold start-up flow and should be avoided at all cost. And the lower the second number hot viscosity rating, the better the hot flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better hot than 20W50.
• Thicker oil DOES NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of well over 100 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. For example, some 5W20 oils have proven to provide OUTSTANDING wear protection, while some 15W50 oils have only been able to provide MODEST wear protection. So, do not run thicker oil under the false assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines.
• BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.
540 RAT
U.S. Patent Holder
Member SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers)
To see my entire 100+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, along with additional motor oil tech FACTS (with over 17,000 “views” worldwide), here’s a link:
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
The OP’s information recommended Mobil 1 15W50 because of it high zinc level. Well, don’t believe everything you read. It does NOT provide the wear protection you think it does. It ranked only 21st out of the 40 high zinc oils tested. And its viscosity is way too thick for almost any application. See below for details:
Wear protection reference categories are:
• Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection
• 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection
• 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection
• 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection
• Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection
The higher the psi number, the better the wear protection.
1. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phos = 3489 ppm
ZDDP= 3000 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.
2. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
NOTE: Due to its very low TBN value, this oil is only suitable for short term racing use, and is not suitable for street use.
3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
4. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
5. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil synthetic = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
ZDDP = 2100 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.
6. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil synthetic = 95,360 psi
zinc = 1431 ppm
phos = 1441 ppm
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
7. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL semi-synthetic = 90,226 psi
zinc = 1221 ppm
phos = 955 ppm
ZDDP = 1000 ppm
8. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil synthetic = 86,270 psi
zinc = 1247 ppm
phos = 1137 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
9. 15W40 RED LINE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4/CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CF/CH-4/CF-4/SM/SL/SH/EO-O = 85,663 psi
zinc = 1615 ppm
phos = 1551 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
10. 5W30 Lucas API SM synthetic = 76,584 psi
zinc = 1134 ppm
phos = 666 ppm
ZDDP = 900 ppm
11. 5W50 Castrol Edge with Syntec API SN, synthetic, formerly Castrol Syntec, black bottle = 75,409 psi
zinc = 1252 ppm
phos = 1197 ppm
ZDDP = 1200 ppm
12. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) synthetic = 74,860 psi
zinc = 1421 ppm
phos = 1338 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
13. 5W40 MOBIL 1 TURBO DIESEL TRUCK synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4 and ACEA E7 = 74,312 psi
zinc = 1211 ppm
phos = 1168 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
14. 15W40 CHEVRON DELO 400LE Diesel Oil, conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM, = 73,520 psi
zinc = 1519 ppm
phos = 1139 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
15. 15W40 MOBIL DELVAC 1300 SUPER Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4/SM, SL = 73,300 psi
zinc = 1297 ppm
phos = 1944 ppm
ZDDP = 1600 ppm
16. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi
zinc = 1325ppm
phos = 1234 ppm
ZDDP = 1200 ppm
17. 15W40 “NEW” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM = 72,022 psi
zinc = 1454 ppm
phos = 1062 ppm
ZDDP = 1200 ppm
18. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
zinc = 1621 ppm
phos = 1437 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
19. 15W40 “OLD” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4,CG-4,CF-4,CF,SL, SJ, SH = 71,214 psi
zinc = 1171 ppm
phos = 1186 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
20. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
ZDDP = 1600 ppm
21. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 70,235 psi
zinc = 1133 ppm
phos = 1,168 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
22. 30wt Edelbrock Break-In Oil conventional = 69,160 psi
zinc = 1545 ppm
phos = 1465 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
23. 10W40 Edelbrock synthetic = 68,603 psi
zinc = 1193 ppm
phos = 1146 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
24. 15W40 LUCAS MAGNUM Diesel Oil, conventional, API CI-4,CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL = 66,476 psi
zinc = 1441 ppm
phos = 1234 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
25. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) synthetic = 66,211 psi
zinc = 1774 ppm
phos = 1347 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
26. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi
zinc = 1154 ppm
phos = 1075 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
27. 5W30 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 64,175 psi
zinc = 1765 ppm
phos = 2468 ppm
ZDDP = 2100 ppm
28. “ZDDPlus” added to Royal Purple 20W50, API SN, synthetic = 63,595 psi
zinc = 2436 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2053 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
ZDDP = 2200 ppm
The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 24% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Most major Oil Companies say to NEVER add anything to their oils, because adding anything will upset the carefully balanced additive package, and ruin the oil’s chemical composition. And that is precisely what we see here. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
29. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
zinc = 1170 ppm
phos = 1039 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm
30. 10W30 Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Hi-Performance Oil, conventional = 62,538 psi
zinc = 2116 ppm
phos = 1855 ppm
ZDDP = 1900 ppm
31. 10W30 Comp Cams Muscle Car & Street Rod Oil, synthetic blend = 60,413 psi
zinc = 1673 ppm
phos = 1114 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
32. 10W40 Torco TR-1 Racing Oil with MPZ conventional = 59,905 psi
zinc = 1456 ppm
phos = 1150 ppm
ZDDP = 1300 ppm
33. “ZDDPlus” added to O’Reilly (house brand) 5W30, API SN, conventional = 56,728 psi
zinc = 2711 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2172 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
ZDDP = 2400 ppm
The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 38% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
34. 10W40 Summit Racing Premium Racing Oil, API SL conventional = 59,483 psi
zinc = 1764 ppm
phos = 1974 ppm
Claimed ZDDP level on the bottle = 1800 ppm
NOTE: Summit discontinued this line of oil, as of spring of 2013.
35. “ZDDPlus” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 56,243 psi
zinc = 2955 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2114 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
ZDDP = 2500 ppm
The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 12% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
36. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Royal Purple 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 54,044 psi
zinc = 1515 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1334 ppm (up 517 ppm)
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a whopping 36% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
37. 10W30 Comp Cams Break-In Oil conventional = 51,749 psi
zinc = 3004 ppm
phos = 2613 ppm
ZDDP = 2800 ppm
38. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Lucas 5W30, API SN, conventional = 51,545 psi
zinc = 1565 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1277 ppm (up 517 ppm)
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a “breath taking” 44% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
39. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 50,202 psi
zinc = 1680 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1275 ppm (up 517 ppm)
ZDDP = 1400 ppm
The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 22% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised.
40. 30wt Lucas Break-In Oil conventional = 49,455 psi
zinc = 4483 ppm
phos = 3660 ppm
ZDDP = 4000 ppm
So, as you saw above, the highest ranking high zinc oil that provided the BEST WEAR PROTECTION of this group of 40 high zinc oils, had 3000 ppm ZDDP. But, the lowest ranking high zinc oil had one third MORE ZDDP at 4000 ppm. Even though this lowest ranked oil had far more zinc in it, it provided LESS THAN HALF AS MUCH WEAR PROTECTION, making it by far the worst of all 40 oils tested. Then the 4th place oil had only 1100 ppm ZDDP, and the 7th place oil had only 1000 ppm ZDDP.
So, the results above show:
1. My tester and test procedure have no problem at all showing excellent performing high zinc oils. The fact is, my oil testing performs worst case torture testing on motor oil. So, an oil HAS TO BE GOOD to produce good results. And we saw that many high zinc oils produced excellent results here.
2. This is ABSOLUTE PROOF that not all high zinc oils have equal wear protection capabilities. And why would anyone think that all high zinc oils are good? Not all tires are good. Not all cylinder heads are good. Not all camshafts are good. The world just doesn’t work that way. Some high zinc oils are quite good and provide excellent wear protection, while other high zinc oils are not good at all, and provide rather poor wear protection. It just depends on the particular oil in question. And that makes it totally clear here, that you simply CANNOT predict an oil’s wear protection capability by looking only at its zinc level. Life is just NOT that simple. If you only look at zinc levels, that is no better than guessing. So, if anyone tells you that you need high levels of zinc for more wear protection, even if it comes from a Cam Company, don’t believe a word of it. Because as you can see above, they have no idea what they are talking about. Would you really want to use the 40th ranked last place oil simply because it has more zinc than the number one ranked oil here? That is just what you’d be doing if you believed the incorrect advice about only looking at zinc levels. In fact, MANY WIPED FLAT TAPPET LOBES COULD HAVE BEEN AVOIDED, INCLUDING DURING BREAK-IN, if people had not blindly believed that all high zinc oils provide all the wear protection they need. Because nothing could be further from the truth.
3. A motor oil’s wear protection capability is determined by its base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, with the emphasis on its additive package which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, and NOT simply by how much zinc is present. The ONLY way to know for sure how much wear protection any given oil can provide, is to look at “dynamic wear testing under load” results, such as I have provided above.
My motor oil testing, is very similar in concept to dyno testing an engine. An engine dyno test is also dynamic testing under load. For the guys who just want to look at a motor oil zinc level reference chart, that is like looking at an engine’s build sheet instead of its dyno print out. Which do you think has more value?
For actual motor oil facts, go to the link at the bottom of my reply, and read my entire motor oil testing write-up, then decide for yourself what you want to believe. Actual test data facts, or the common high zinc MYTH? The engine you save, may be your own.
VISCOSITY SELECTION:
• Thinner oil flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating critical engine components much more quickly than thicker oil can. Most engine wear takes place during cold start-up before oil flow can reach all the components. So, quicker flowing thinner oil will help reduce start-up engine wear, which is actually reducing wear overall.
• The more free flowing thinner oil at cold start-up, is also much less likely to cause the oil filter bypass to open up, compared to thicker oil. Of course if the bypass opened up, that would allow unfiltered oil to be pumped through the engine. The colder the ambient temperature, and the more rpm used when the engine is cold, the more important this becomes.
• Thinner oil also flows more at normal operating temperatures. And oil FLOW is lubrication, but oil pressure is NOT lubrication. Oil pressure is only a measurement of resistance to flow. Running thicker oil just to up the oil pressure is the wrong thing to do, because that only reduces oil flow/lubrication. Oil pressure in and of itself, is NOT what we are after.
• The more free flowing thinner oil will also drain back to the oil pan quicker than thicker oil. So, thinner oil can help maintain a higher oil level in the oil pan during operation, which keeps the oil pump pickup from possibly sucking air during braking and cornering.
• The old rule of thumb that we should have at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm is perfectly fine. Running thicker oil to achieve more pressure than that, will simply reduce oil flow for no good reason. It is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain at least the rule of thumb oil pressure. And one of the benefits of running a high volume oil pump, is that it will allow us to enjoy all the benefits of running thinner oil, while still maintaining sufficient oil pressure. A high volume oil pump/thinner oil combo is preferred over running a standard volume oil pump/thicker oil combo. Because oil “flow” is our goal for ideal oiling, NOT simply high oil pressure.
• Oil flow is what carries heat away from internal engine components. Those engine components are DIRECTLY oil cooled, but only INdirectly water cooled. And better flowing thinner oil will keep critical engine components cooler because it carries heat away faster. If you run thicker oil than needed, you will be driving up engine component temps. For example: Plain bearings, such as rod and main bearings are lubricated by oil flow, not by oil pressure. Oil pressure is NOT what keeps these parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply the oil to this interface. The parts are kept apart by the incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge that is formed as the liquid oil is pulled in between the spinning parts. As long as sufficient oil is supplied, no wear can occur. In addition to this, the flow of oil through the bearings is what cools them. So, thinner oil will flow more, and thus cool the bearings better, as well as lubricate the bearings better than thicker oil.
• Thinner oil will typically increase HP because of less viscous drag and reduced pumping losses, compared to thicker oils. That is why very serious Race efforts will generally use watery thin oils in their engines. But, an exception to this increase in HP would be in high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, where thinner oil can allow the lifters to malfunction at very high rpm. In everyday street vehicles, where fuel consumption is a consideration, thinner oils will also typically increase fuel economy. The majority of new cars sold in the U.S. now call for 5W20 specifically for increased fuel economy. And now Diesel trucks are increasingly calling for 5W30, also for fuel economy improvement.
• With the exception of high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the first number cold viscosity rating, the better the cold flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better cold than 20W50. And 0W30 flows WAY better cold than straight 30wt, which is horrible for cold start-up flow and should be avoided at all cost. And the lower the second number hot viscosity rating, the better the hot flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better hot than 20W50.
• Thicker oil DOES NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of well over 100 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. For example, some 5W20 oils have proven to provide OUTSTANDING wear protection, while some 15W50 oils have only been able to provide MODEST wear protection. So, do not run thicker oil under the false assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines.
• BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.
540 RAT
U.S. Patent Holder
Member SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers)
To see my entire 100+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, along with additional motor oil tech FACTS (with over 17,000 “views” worldwide), here’s a link:
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
01-13-2014, 04:04 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
Last edited by billla; 01-13-2014 at 05:02 PM.
06-30-2014, 10:21 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
What else can I say? I really don't know how to get the message across more specifically about oils than posting information from credible sources plus my own real world experiences. This kind of reminds me of news stories where someone shoots another person, caught on camera, video tape, etc and a family member says well that was not my son who did the shooting, despite irrefutable evidence.
07-03-2014, 12:11 AM
#16
1st Gear
Member Since: Jul 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
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What else can I say? I really don't know how to get the message across more specifically about oils than posting information from credible sources plus my own real world experiences. This kind of reminds me of news stories where someone shoots another person, caught on camera, video tape, etc and a family member says well that was not my son who did the shooting, despite irrefutable evidence.
Same old thing - old stories floating everywhere. I METICULOUSLY ran my cam in and wiped a lobe. I will use tis list as a reference and pick an oil with over 90 whatever (will use additive for break in to not lose warranty on cam - unfortunately)
07-03-2014, 06:26 AM
#17
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
There is overwhelming evidence supporting synthetics in our cars, high Zinc oils for flat tappet cams, breaking in roller cams as well as flat tappet cams-all supported in this article that was in VETTE MAGAZINE and………….
You have people saying, well, I don't believe it…see my comment in post #15.
I absolutely love the Shell Rotella (diesel oil) crowd recommending a diesel oil for C3's-its cheap and readily available-so is corn oil …. unbelievable…………..
You have people saying, well, I don't believe it…see my comment in post #15.
I absolutely love the Shell Rotella (diesel oil) crowd recommending a diesel oil for C3's-its cheap and readily available-so is corn oil …. unbelievable…………..
07-03-2014, 07:21 AM
#18
Race Director
Great post guys. A lot of work and really good information.
I must admit that I'm part of the Rotella fan club (haven't tried corn oil yet) but will also point out that few of us put large numbers of miles on these cars. Sure there are situations where cams fail quickly but I would think that once properly broken in that most would last a while with just about any quality oil. Doesn't mean that I shouldn't switch though.
I found the recommendation to break in roller cams interesting and unexpected.
I must admit that I'm part of the Rotella fan club (haven't tried corn oil yet) but will also point out that few of us put large numbers of miles on these cars. Sure there are situations where cams fail quickly but I would think that once properly broken in that most would last a while with just about any quality oil. Doesn't mean that I shouldn't switch though.
I found the recommendation to break in roller cams interesting and unexpected.
07-04-2014, 07:15 AM
#19
"For Corvettes with no cats or track only vettes, Mobil recommends Mobil 1 0W-50 racing"
I use this oil. But I also see racing oils should be changed every 500 miles. Seen the price of this oil in The Netherlands (about $160,- for 5 liters); can I safely switch to any other viscosity full synthetic?
I use this oil. But I also see racing oils should be changed every 500 miles. Seen the price of this oil in The Netherlands (about $160,- for 5 liters); can I safely switch to any other viscosity full synthetic?
07-04-2014, 08:29 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
"For Corvettes with no cats or track only vettes, Mobil recommends Mobil 1 0W-50 racing"
I use this oil. But I also see racing oils should be changed every 500 miles. Seen the price of this oil in The Netherlands (about $160,- for 5 liters); can I safely switch to any other viscosity full synthetic?
I use this oil. But I also see racing oils should be changed every 500 miles. Seen the price of this oil in The Netherlands (about $160,- for 5 liters); can I safely switch to any other viscosity full synthetic?
I also have used Mobil 1 15W-50 for years in my L-82 with its flat tappet cammed engine but will be switching to Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula (1,000 PPM ZDDP) with the engine just rebuilt with a roller cam. In the USA only, Mobil 1 15W-50 is NOT a true synthetic, but Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro is a true Group IV synthetic, in the states only, plus I prefer the 0W weight for cold startup, where 90% of engine wear occurs. Hope that helps.