vetteguy22

Have seen the kits advertised but have never talked to anyone using them. So, does anyone have any experience with this and what are peoples thoughts. My engine is a small block gen 1 427 with 11½ - 1 compression.
Rob

akdale

Yes, 350 SB w/weiand 142 supercharger. Using snow performance kit. Running wiper fluid for injection. -40 has methanol in it. Works great, allows me to run pump gas with 9 lbs boost on a 8-1 comp engine.

Ibanez540r

Mind giving some specs on the motor? Is exactly what I am building. What cam are you running? Any advice or anything you would have done different?

cv67

ran a snow kit on my old 90 ZR-1 NA
Helped with pinging does make a difference
50/50 water-windshield wash fluid

ddawson

Not on the Corvette but I used the Alkycontrol on another car.

I also ran 100% for the extra octane needed to keep the knock away.

cottoneg

Water injection I believe has been used in aviation for quite some time. I would just be very careful using Methanol. It is very toxic and absorbed right through the skin. Use care when handling it.

M A Fry

Here's a great article on water/methanol injection.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/misc/mannject.html

akdale

ibanez540, here is what I am running

SB 350 .030 over, Probe forged pistons, Edelbrock performer heads, 2.02/1.6 65cc chambers, Edelbrock performer cam 234/244 @.050 .488/.510 at valve, 112LSA, weiand 142 and matched intake, water/methanol injection, smallest pulley for 142 so 9lbs boost I believe. Compresison is 8.0 to 1. Cheapie deluxe HEI with hyper tech coil. Thats coming out and am adding a MSD 6al w/boost retard. Carburation is a 750cfm 4150.

bebezote

yes it works.... go with something like snow performance or other very high pressure pump... works fantastic... just use blue washer fluid from any gas station or walmart.. its 40% meth... works great..

tap off your stock wiper resivour... works like a charm... look for the necessary triggers.. rpm, loading , boost, depending what you have..

bebezote

vetteguy...do you have alum heads on that big 427? you should be ok with 91 with alum heads at 11:1...with a bit less timing...

garygnu

if you don't drive the car a lot ,use high-octane gas .could you swap on lager chamber heads ?like a 75 cc AFR head .the right cam could kill enough dynamic compression to run 92 octane ,but it would hurt vacuum .

gerry72

There is a very, very long history of rodders using water/water-alcohol injection on street-driven high compression engines. It's safe, it's cheap, and it works just as good as it did many years ago.

gkull

Both of my 427 and later bored to a 434 were 11.5-11.7 C/R The key is having enough cam duration. Mine ran fine on our 91 super unleaded.

back when i didn't understand the the relationship to static and dynamic compression ratios i had a 355 motor in my vette that would rattle cruising down the highway at light throttle. I used Morroso 104 octane booster and then I went to a distilled water/methanol system

It used a small electric pump and attached to the engine vacuum as a regulator. The problem was it could go through its little 1/2 gallon in couple hundred miles and i always had to carry another gallon jug to fill it.

The fix was just to throw in a bigger cam and get rid of all the band aids

vetteguy22

Yes, I am running Dart aluminum heads. I understand about reducing the timing but would rather be on the safe side.

vetteguy22

The car is definitely not a daily driver. Always run premium gas. I basically have no vacuum now. I believe we had only 6lbs when we checked it on the dyno. Built this motor to achieve 600+ hp. Not willing to change heads. The car will be run on the street and also the road race track. On the track I will use race Sunoco.

gkull

what heads and cam specs did you go with? Vacuum is usually referred to in inches. Your 6 inches will not be enough to run brakes or headlights. If you raise the idle speed and change the dizzy to have say 34 total at 3000+ rpm and 18-20 initial timing. Your vacuum might actually double to 12 ish

Oh I have dart heads on my motor

bashcraft

How is running a bigger cam than needed not a band-aid? The only fix would be to lower the compression.

gkull

Who said anything about running a bigger cam than needed?

If you build a N/A motor and it has detonation problems caused by too small of a cam which caused overly high Dynamic Compression ratio. The most simple fix is to change the cam to a higher duration which will decrease the dynamic compression ratio.

yes, you can over cam a motor and ruin drivability, So you have to put some thought into DCR calculations. Changing out pistons or going to larger cc heads is much more expensive than a cam shaft.

I consider lowering timing, octane booster, water injection to be band aids because they are masking a problem

v2racing

You can also have a cam ground with the intake lobe center retarded some to give you a later closing intake. This is one of the things the OEM's use to get away with high compression. FI and knock sensors make it easier for them though.

I like an engine that will rev and make power at or above 7000 rpm's, so longer duration and wider lobe separation fits my needs well. Of course you need heads that will support it too. My build would have come on harder in the mid range with a 108 LSA, but I would have more problems with detonation because usually you would also close the intake earlier with narrower LSA. I almost went 112 LSA when I ground my cam. 110 made for a good compromise.

Water/Meth injection has been around since WW2 in fighter planes, maybe longer. It works. It can become necessary on high boost applications. We used to use the boost itself to inject the water/meth. A line off the boost side of the turbo or blower to the top of a sealed container holding the water/meth. Then a line from the bottom of the container to a nozzle on the inlet pre-boost side on the turbo or blower. We would put an adjustable valve in the boost side line so as to have the injection kick in at the boost we wanted. Super simple system.

The best thing to do is plan the complete build out before you buy a single piece! I mean the entire car!

bashcraft

I guess I made the assumption that you picked the right cam to begin with.