Little Mouse

How big could I make a lifter bore in a factory SBC block for flat tappit use should i decide to use the block.

TimAT

A BBC will go to .904- at least that what I'm going with.(per my machine shop guy) Makes the axle and wheel nearly double the stock .843. Plus they already make lifters with that diameter. I have to think since both the SB and the BB share the same .843 liters that there's plenty of meat in the block. I'm also using bronze bushings.

Little Mouse

They used to bush SBC for roller lifters, boring out the bores to 9.03 may well work, flat tappits don't have the side loading of a roller. My understanding is there are AMC solid flat tappits 9.03 that can be used in the chevy.

I still have three blocks i never got rid of, i sold a 454, 4 bolt block with a .030 bore on it. If I still had it would bore it to .060 and use it.

TimAT

I'm going with solid rollers- that is the reason for the .904 and bushings. If I had the extra cash I'd also go with a 60mm roller cam- along with a 4.6 bore block. So it's a .060 over 454.

Little Mouse

Im fixing to use some 2 x 4 rectangle build a longer wheelbase T-bucket with a kicked up front and back rails to keep it low. Most kits use 1 1/2 x 3 rectangle only set the wheelbase at 103" and are not kicked up. Only thing I can't do is a roll cage. Im going to have sort of nascar cage with side protection for me, it will be more street driven then anything. Even with all that it will be less then 2500 lbs. So I do not have to have big power to make it scoot. Will set the wheelbase around 114/116 and stretch the body cowl for more leg room. It will be unusual in that it will be a 4 speed manual T-bucket. Only the SBC will be common as dirt. It is tempting to use say a 383 or 440 mopar so it won't be more like other t-buckets, but I'm kind of SBC fan as in Little Mouse. There was a time when it was chevy or nothing but at 60 guess I out grown that a long time ago. Most all people even in the kits use to wide a rear end in there build and they end up looking goofy IMO. The narrowest rear end you can get 54 1/4 is under S-10 pickups and blazers. The strongest version was in 95 up V6 models. But it is only a 10 bolt rear.

I may have to buy a dana 60 pickup rear end there cheap in the yrds. Narrow it cut the spring perches off and buy new axles. Assuming it was in good shape, I would have no worries.

gkull

http://tgsperformance.com/bbc.html

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ode=LifterSets

TimAT

Those Elite Lifters also can be rebuilt by Comp.. for a small fee of course. But it's less that throwing them in the trash and buying new ones.

Little Mouse

Good info.

gkull

4.600 bores are only attainable on monster aftermarket blocks for making engines like high 500 to over 600 ci.

The 427 & 454 chevy stock are 4.250 bore. I had a max bored (+.120) overstock block with a 4.25 stroker crank in my dragster and it was only 510 or 511 ci depending who you were talking to.

TimAT

Fat fingers typed the wrong info-- IF I had the extra cash I'd go to the 4.6 bore block with the 60mm roller bearing cam.. As I'm relatively poor, it's a .060 over 454 block.

63mako

AMC .904 Solid flat tappet lifters will work and oil the pushrods.

Little Mouse

That's what I have been told. Im going to talk to a machine shop see what the costs are. Then if I want to go forward take one of these blocks into see if its any good. The one that has the nodular caps. Not what id really like to do would rather have an shp pro block or at least an shp block. Nothing is cheap to do anymore and i live in the past. Still waiting for the 60s to come back with only modern medicine of today, the rest I can do without. Well radial tires are a bit better then bias ply but I seemed to survive on the bias ply lol.