How Much HP Will it make??
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
How Much HP Will it make??
Well I pulled the trigger and started a rebuild of my tired L48. Pulled the engine a couple of weeks ago (pics to come), and got started.
I've done alot of reading here on the subject and choose a direction.
My goal is not a race engine/car but a reliable fun street motor/driver. I definitly wanted to build more horsepower than the wimpy L48. Here's where I'm going parts just arrived:
Scat 4340 stroker crank
5.7 rods (stock style w/press fit wrist pins)
Bore .030 over
Speed Pro Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons
Hastings Moly Rings
Clevite main rod & cam bearings
Double roller timing set
#12-210-2 Comp cam:
1500 - 5500 RPM range
Lobe Sep -110
Duration - 268 / 268
Dur @ .050 - 218 / 218
Lobe lift - .302 / .302
Net Valve lift - .454 / .454
Comp Roller Rockers w/lock nuts 1.5:1 Ratio (same as stock)
Copm Hardened push rods
Elgin valve springs - good to .490 lift
New Flex plate
New balancer
Melling Hi Vol oil pump
Fel Pro gasket set
Rotating ***'y to be externally balanced
Long tube headers to true dual exhaust
I'm staying with stock heads for now (budget) but will give fresh valve job and port. Still haven't choosen an intake (suggestions welcome)
I love this forum and the depth of knowledge here so PLEASE tell me what you think good or bad.
Thanks
I've done alot of reading here on the subject and choose a direction.
My goal is not a race engine/car but a reliable fun street motor/driver. I definitly wanted to build more horsepower than the wimpy L48. Here's where I'm going parts just arrived:
Scat 4340 stroker crank
5.7 rods (stock style w/press fit wrist pins)
Bore .030 over
Speed Pro Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons
Hastings Moly Rings
Clevite main rod & cam bearings
Double roller timing set
#12-210-2 Comp cam:
1500 - 5500 RPM range
Lobe Sep -110
Duration - 268 / 268
Dur @ .050 - 218 / 218
Lobe lift - .302 / .302
Net Valve lift - .454 / .454
Comp Roller Rockers w/lock nuts 1.5:1 Ratio (same as stock)
Copm Hardened push rods
Elgin valve springs - good to .490 lift
New Flex plate
New balancer
Melling Hi Vol oil pump
Fel Pro gasket set
Rotating ***'y to be externally balanced
Long tube headers to true dual exhaust
I'm staying with stock heads for now (budget) but will give fresh valve job and port. Still haven't choosen an intake (suggestions welcome)
I love this forum and the depth of knowledge here so PLEASE tell me what you think good or bad.
Thanks
#3
Safety Car
Dart has fair prices on heads I would forego that valve job and porting and look into a set be it them or another company's aluminum heads .
#4
Racer
I had a similar motor many years ago...stock crank and forged pistons, 4 valve releife form speed pro...
compression was about 8.5:1, and the cam was very similar, except .461 on the lift...with a set of 882's for the heads...made about 300-310HP, if I remember correctly...
compression was about 8.5:1, and the cam was very similar, except .461 on the lift...with a set of 882's for the heads...made about 300-310HP, if I remember correctly...
#5
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Royal Canadian Navy
I'd consider a 383 crate motor even if you need to save up a few more dollars.
Belay that. I see now that you already have bought the parts. GL with the build.
Belay that. I see now that you already have bought the parts. GL with the build.
Last edited by resdoggie; 04-01-2014 at 06:33 PM.
#6
#7
Race Director
#8
Le Mans Master
he's saying the combo will make around 55hp more than the stock engine.
#10
Le Mans Master
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What ever the power level really is, the car will be sluggish from a standing start with the 3.08 rear (assumed since the car is apparently an automatic) and the stock torque converter.
#12
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St. Jude Donor '05
383 with that cam will make a torquey driver
Good heads when you can will sure wake it up
Good heads when you can will sure wake it up
#13
Race Director
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As mentioned, I wouldn't put a penny in the stock heads....I'd get a set of just about anything...it would be better. Iron or aluminum...unless you get the cheapest import ones you'll be way ahead.
Then once you get decent heads, choose a better cam.
JIM
Then once you get decent heads, choose a better cam.
JIM
#14
Racer
Do the heads.....Big Power means Air In and Air Out.....Everything works together so if you have big pistons, Cam but no way to feed the beast it will starve. If you restrict the exhaust you are going to slow the purging of what you feed it.
Dart, Pro-Filer have affordable heads ready to go.
I think a set of 2.02 heads run a little less them a grand.......I paid close to $1200 for heads on one of my Harley's.
Simple to do now and not have to redo it later.
Just my thoughts,
Karsten
Dart, Pro-Filer have affordable heads ready to go.
I think a set of 2.02 heads run a little less them a grand.......I paid close to $1200 for heads on one of my Harley's.
Simple to do now and not have to redo it later.
Just my thoughts,
Karsten
#16
Le Mans Master
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Well I pulled the trigger and started a rebuild of my tired L48. Pulled the engine a couple of weeks ago (pics to come), and got started.
I've done alot of reading here on the subject and choose a direction.
My goal is not a race engine/car but a reliable fun street motor/driver. I definitly wanted to build more horsepower than the wimpy L48. Here's where I'm going parts just arrived:
Scat 4340 stroker crank
5.7 rods (stock style w/press fit wrist pins)
Bore .030 over
Speed Pro Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons
Hastings Moly Rings
Clevite main rod & cam bearings
Double roller timing set
#12-210-2 Comp cam:
1500 - 5500 RPM range
Lobe Sep -110
Duration - 268 / 268
Dur @ .050 - 218 / 218
Lobe lift - .302 / .302
Net Valve lift - .454 / .454
Comp Roller Rockers w/lock nuts 1.5:1 Ratio (same as stock)
Copm Hardened push rods
Elgin valve springs - good to .490 lift
New Flex plate
New balancer
Melling Hi Vol oil pump
Fel Pro gasket set
Rotating ***'y to be externally balanced
Long tube headers to true dual exhaust
I'm staying with stock heads for now (budget) but will give fresh valve job and port. Still haven't choosen an intake (suggestions welcome)
I love this forum and the depth of knowledge here so PLEASE tell me what you think good or bad.
Thanks
I've done alot of reading here on the subject and choose a direction.
My goal is not a race engine/car but a reliable fun street motor/driver. I definitly wanted to build more horsepower than the wimpy L48. Here's where I'm going parts just arrived:
Scat 4340 stroker crank
5.7 rods (stock style w/press fit wrist pins)
Bore .030 over
Speed Pro Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons
Hastings Moly Rings
Clevite main rod & cam bearings
Double roller timing set
#12-210-2 Comp cam:
1500 - 5500 RPM range
Lobe Sep -110
Duration - 268 / 268
Dur @ .050 - 218 / 218
Lobe lift - .302 / .302
Net Valve lift - .454 / .454
Comp Roller Rockers w/lock nuts 1.5:1 Ratio (same as stock)
Copm Hardened push rods
Elgin valve springs - good to .490 lift
New Flex plate
New balancer
Melling Hi Vol oil pump
Fel Pro gasket set
Rotating ***'y to be externally balanced
Long tube headers to true dual exhaust
I'm staying with stock heads for now (budget) but will give fresh valve job and port. Still haven't choosen an intake (suggestions welcome)
I love this forum and the depth of knowledge here so PLEASE tell me what you think good or bad.
Thanks
I agree with those who say a good set of cylinder heads are very important. When you get around to it, you will probably notice a distinct difference in power with better heads, and wish you had done it sooner! You do the best you can with what you have available, though, and it sounds like you are building a good base for later upgrades, which is a move in the right direction. Doing a head swap later isn't that big of a deal, relatively speaking.
Scott