Vintage air evaporator and line install pics 1969
04-02-2014, 03:06 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Vintage air evaporator and line install pics 1969
Guys
I took more shots now of my evap install and the coolant and heater core lines as well as the condenser lines and dryer install. My nose is not factory so neither are my wheel wells so I don't know if they are in the absolute correct place but I did have to bend up my condenser lines quite a bit to fit them where I wanted without rubbing. I still have to install the wiring and evacuate and charge the system and then install the controls but the biggest part is done now. I am a little **** over stuff so I use stuff like rivnuts instead of sheet metal screws for better serviceability. I am re-posting my pics of the cowl bracing so they can be seen in one post. I used a 2" deep pusher fan instead of the one they suggested as my hood just touches the back of the fan as you open it to set the prop.
Rivetnuts for holding up the evap in the car. I dont like sheetmetal screws you only get 1 or 2 threads at best of grip.
Jnuts to hold the metal plate instead of the plastic pushinrivets. Using bolts and washers made the firewall much more rigid. The evap would shake if I pushed on it. Once bolting the plate into place and NOT using the plastic pushin rivets made the firewall opening much more solid.
Rivnuts to hold line plate. 3 screws made the plate nice and flush and again I dont like sheet metal screws.
Trinary switch. To turn on condenser fan and protect compressor due to high or low pressure.
Bought a mastercool 71550 to crimp my own lines. Vintage air will do it for you but you have to ship them there and pay for shipping back.
Heater core hot water control valve.
Modified my controls and rebuilt them with a new faceplate kit.
Defrost duct. I would glue it into place like I did so its solid and wont leak air or come apart.
evap installed with cowl support bars modded to fit back into car with evap in place. Seems there are several designs for the braces starting in 69 so yours may differ.
Original location
Removed tab
tab relocated
modified lower brace
view below unit
Upper brace w 5/8" shock spacer
I closed my vent holes up with fire prof expanding foam. The block offs they gave me are useless on my vent tubes, they would not hold onto the tubes. Just put a bag around the scupper in the cowl with a rubber band around the base to hold it in place then sprayed the foam in carefully and let it expand.
I took more shots now of my evap install and the coolant and heater core lines as well as the condenser lines and dryer install. My nose is not factory so neither are my wheel wells so I don't know if they are in the absolute correct place but I did have to bend up my condenser lines quite a bit to fit them where I wanted without rubbing. I still have to install the wiring and evacuate and charge the system and then install the controls but the biggest part is done now. I am a little **** over stuff so I use stuff like rivnuts instead of sheet metal screws for better serviceability. I am re-posting my pics of the cowl bracing so they can be seen in one post. I used a 2" deep pusher fan instead of the one they suggested as my hood just touches the back of the fan as you open it to set the prop.
Rivetnuts for holding up the evap in the car. I dont like sheetmetal screws you only get 1 or 2 threads at best of grip.
Jnuts to hold the metal plate instead of the plastic pushinrivets. Using bolts and washers made the firewall much more rigid. The evap would shake if I pushed on it. Once bolting the plate into place and NOT using the plastic pushin rivets made the firewall opening much more solid.
Rivnuts to hold line plate. 3 screws made the plate nice and flush and again I dont like sheet metal screws.
Trinary switch. To turn on condenser fan and protect compressor due to high or low pressure.
Bought a mastercool 71550 to crimp my own lines. Vintage air will do it for you but you have to ship them there and pay for shipping back.
Heater core hot water control valve.
Modified my controls and rebuilt them with a new faceplate kit.
Defrost duct. I would glue it into place like I did so its solid and wont leak air or come apart.
evap installed with cowl support bars modded to fit back into car with evap in place. Seems there are several designs for the braces starting in 69 so yours may differ.
Original location
Removed tab
tab relocated
modified lower brace
view below unit
Upper brace w 5/8" shock spacer
I closed my vent holes up with fire prof expanding foam. The block offs they gave me are useless on my vent tubes, they would not hold onto the tubes. Just put a bag around the scupper in the cowl with a rubber band around the base to hold it in place then sprayed the foam in carefully and let it expand.
