Suggestions on making fuel line
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Suggestions on making fuel line
While under the hood I am wanting to replace the fuel line from Mech fuel pump to carb with all metal line and filter. Anybody done this? If so, custom made yourself, how and what did it take? I expect some tubing, flaring tools and EFI fuel filter would work. I remember reading an article on this somewhere.
#2
Race Director
I've watched tsw71 build a setup. You'll need a flaring tool, tubing bender and a filter as mentioned. I'd do a delco metal filter with a line from pump to filter, then filter to carb or splitter block.
#3
Drifting
I have made a few steel fuel lines and it is easy, with a little care, planning and time. Go to your local auto parts supplier and ask for 3/8ths line with both ends double flared, just like factory. I prefer the clear steel, not the black that many carry. My clear steel lines come from Car Quest, but others must also have them.
You can use a coat hangar, or other flexible metal rod to bend a mock up of about the shape you need. I have a cheap hand held bender that is basically a loop with a channel for the tube. I have other benders, but that is the one I mostly rely on to make the bends. It will go in my pedestal vise during most of the bends. The bend for me always starts at the carb and ends at the FP. At some point you will want to cut the length to make the work easier. This means one end needs to be flared, remember to keep the nut on before doing the flare. I have made several flares using a cheap clamp type tool using a button. These are iffy at best. Reliable flares can be made, but it may take a few tries. Once the line is too short, you need to buy another and start over. Another option is to check around your neighborhood for a shop that does this kind of work. I had one a mile from my location and only discovered him by accident. For $10 he gives you a perfect flare. Be sure you clearly mark where it needs to go.
Another option for a reliable flare, if you plan on doing many is Eastwood. They now have a very effective flaring tool for under $200. Your first bend from the carb in a Gen 1 Chevy engine is getting around the water pump return nipple. Sorry, I can't find the photos right now, but they also get around the serpentine drive system up front. After mine was done, I put it to the buffing machine to add a little luster to the plating on it. In my opinion, the steel line looks best and is the most reliable, so why not try and make one, the steel line will only set you back around $7. It is about 32 inches long and you will cut about 8 of that off. The mock up wire will tell how much line you will need. Remember a filter should be bought that matches the line you are using and two flares will need to be made for the filter. Best to make the entire line first, then go back and cut in for the fuel filter.
You can use a coat hangar, or other flexible metal rod to bend a mock up of about the shape you need. I have a cheap hand held bender that is basically a loop with a channel for the tube. I have other benders, but that is the one I mostly rely on to make the bends. It will go in my pedestal vise during most of the bends. The bend for me always starts at the carb and ends at the FP. At some point you will want to cut the length to make the work easier. This means one end needs to be flared, remember to keep the nut on before doing the flare. I have made several flares using a cheap clamp type tool using a button. These are iffy at best. Reliable flares can be made, but it may take a few tries. Once the line is too short, you need to buy another and start over. Another option is to check around your neighborhood for a shop that does this kind of work. I had one a mile from my location and only discovered him by accident. For $10 he gives you a perfect flare. Be sure you clearly mark where it needs to go.
Another option for a reliable flare, if you plan on doing many is Eastwood. They now have a very effective flaring tool for under $200. Your first bend from the carb in a Gen 1 Chevy engine is getting around the water pump return nipple. Sorry, I can't find the photos right now, but they also get around the serpentine drive system up front. After mine was done, I put it to the buffing machine to add a little luster to the plating on it. In my opinion, the steel line looks best and is the most reliable, so why not try and make one, the steel line will only set you back around $7. It is about 32 inches long and you will cut about 8 of that off. The mock up wire will tell how much line you will need. Remember a filter should be bought that matches the line you are using and two flares will need to be made for the filter. Best to make the entire line first, then go back and cut in for the fuel filter.
Last edited by Red 69; 04-12-2014 at 03:04 AM.
#5
Drifting
I made mine. From experience I can tell you, buy extra tubing. You will screw up the first couple until you figure out the lengths with the curves. And buy a REALLY good flaring tool. The cheap ones don't clamp well enough and the tubing will slip. You can also use a C clamp or vise to get more clamping force on the flaring tool.
The bottom tube is a factory reproduction piece. Then I cut and flared the top half of it where the filter goes.
I incorporated the newer FI fuel filer mentioned in Lar's paper.
The bottom tube is a factory reproduction piece. Then I cut and flared the top half of it where the filter goes.
I incorporated the newer FI fuel filer mentioned in Lar's paper.
#6
Former Vendor
inline filter system from Peak Speed Shop
For anyone having a hard time getting the Weatherhead 1446 adapters (including o-ring) for this setup, Peak Speed Shop now sells them online.
Weatherhead 1446 adapters
Or, order a whole kit for Quadrajet Carburetor setup:
C3 Filter Kit from Peak Speed Shop
Go to: http://peakspeedshop.com/Zen_Cart/in...x&cPath=90_138
Weatherhead 1446 adapters
Or, order a whole kit for Quadrajet Carburetor setup:
C3 Filter Kit from Peak Speed Shop
Go to: http://peakspeedshop.com/Zen_Cart/in...x&cPath=90_138
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: charlotte north carolina
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Get the Nickel-Copper alloy tubing from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto. It's softer than steel, and flares easily with el-cheapo Harbor Freight tools and doesn't work harden like aluminium.
#9
Former Vendor
They can be ordered through Peak Speed Shop.
http://peakspeedshop.com/Zen_Cart/in...x&cPath=90_138
#10
Melting Slicks
I make quit a bit of Hydraulic Tubing in my work. I have my own Hydraulic Flaring Tools. I have also made all my own Fuel Lines for my Turbo EFI set up. My recommendation is don't. Sounds like You have a Fuel Line coming from a Mech Fuel Pump to a Carb. Many if not all the Corvette Vendors should have this, so why not just buy whats all ready made and proven.
#11
Team Owner
look at a company called ''the right stuff'' in ohio,
they are one of the best manufactures ive dealt with in years,i bought lines for my 69' 427/400 resto and the dr frame brake line didn't fit[my car was built late and a 70' line fit],then my tri-power feed line was to long,i sent them my org line,and it turns out 400 and 435 hp cars had 2 different lines ,because of the intake heights,,they used my line and built a new one that fit better then new
they are one of the best manufactures ive dealt with in years,i bought lines for my 69' 427/400 resto and the dr frame brake line didn't fit[my car was built late and a 70' line fit],then my tri-power feed line was to long,i sent them my org line,and it turns out 400 and 435 hp cars had 2 different lines ,because of the intake heights,,they used my line and built a new one that fit better then new