Ranger24

Here's a silly question. When installing the fuel tank do you adhere the squeak pads to the frame or simply set them in there and tighten the straps down?

Ranger24

So today I installed the bumpers, tail lights and test fit the new tank. It actually went in there rather easily, which I did not expect. The rear end of the car looks so much better now with the rust gone, fresh paint and new fasteners.

Ranger24

Started tearing down the rear end this morning. This is a photo of the system I used to control the spring while loosening the nuts on the spring bolts. Worked quite well.

Ranger24

As most of you know rust is present in most of these cars. However, the unknown is exactly where it is and how it will unmask itself as you work through removing old parts. Here is one I found today (sway bar bracket bolt head was sheered off and I couldn't get a wrench in on the upper bolt head to prevent twist as I removed the lower nut from the spring bolt) while removing the spring. After monkeying around with this for a while I finally decided it needed some Dewalt Sawzall persuasion.

Once I got past this the spring came right out. That damn thing was heavier than I though it would be.

Ranger24

Removed the rear end components yesterday with the exception of the diff. and trailing arms. I think I may need an additional set of hands for that.

It doesn't appear the brake lines have ever been disconnected so there is a lot of rust build up. I've been shooting the connections with PB blaster so we'll see how that goes. Based on another thread I also ordered some Kano Kroil. Poster said the stuff outperforms PB Blaster by long margin.

Ranger24

Photos

rajin cajin

Great job Ranger. Looks about right where I am. I use a small portable sand blaster for small jobs such as blasting the bolts on the frame and such. It really has cut down on breaking bolts during removal. I also pressure wash real good prior to any frame work. I end with a good soaking of PB blaster or such on all the bolts and nuts also. Anything to make less of a mess. All that rust and grime becomes airborne and falls in eyes and ears and such. I dropped my tank and was going to sandblast it till I turned it over and found the small pinholes on the top leaking fuel. Awaiting my new tank and sending unit now. Did you purchase the tank sending unit install tool? That lift must be a life saver. Keep the pics coming.

Ranger24

I did buy the tool and it worked nicely although it was a one use purchase. Looks like you're on your way. I did find a nice little surprise today. Looks I'm dropping the diff and sending it to Vtech.

Ranger24

That lift must be a life saver. Keep the pics coming.

I couldn't do this without it, makes a huge difference.

rajin cajin

Two steps forward and one step back. It appears you have the same luck I usually have.

rajin cajin

I'm not ever making the same luck comment again in my entire life....

Look what I just found

74modified

At least you found it before something bad happened. I find that 1/2 transmission fluid & 1/2 acetone works really well for breaking loose old fasteners. It works better than most store bought fluids.

Ranger24

I was able to loosen the brake lines using my nice new pair of line wrenches ($9 at Harbor Freight ).

Today I dropped the differential but not without some drama. When loosening the universal brackets I stripped the head on one of the bolts. So I ended up removing the brackets at the trans and pulled the entire drive shaft out with the diff...with a little help. Quite frankly, I think it will go in that way...easier to torque those bolts that way.

Ranger24

Ok, I also started working on the trailing arms. OMG those shims and crown nuts are welded in place (with rust). The pins broke off in the crown nuts. I was able to pull the pins for the shims but that's about where things stopped.

So I would like some suggestions on how to get these damn things out. Long metal blade Sawzall? What about using a cut off wheel on that nut?

rajin cajin

If I remember correctly on my 76, I used a 4 inch steel blade on a sawzall at a 90 degree angle between 2 of the shims on the side of the trailing arm to cut the bolt. I cut the bolt head and nut from the outer frame at first but could not budge or drive the portion of the bolt that was in the trailing arm. I had to drive a chisel in between the shims first just to make a little room for the blade. I never was able to drive the bolt out of the trailing arms once they were out the car. It's a mess in that small opening of the frame. This was a previous basket case that was pretty much rusted solid. Sad part was the car only had 13k original miles.

rajin cajin

Think Ill give it a try. I also sometimes put a MAPP torch on the metal around the bolts to expand the metal and then hit it with PB blaster when it gets heated up. A quick expansion and contraction between the two metal surfaces usually breaks rust and crud loose. This little trick has saved my rear end numerous times when I knew I would break a bolt off otherwise. Just make sure to get the MAPP (yellow tank) versus the propane (blue tank) as MAPP gets hotter.

Ranger24

What type of blade did you use in the Sawzall? I have gone through 6 or 7 now but they do not appear to be cutting the bolt. I did get through the shims but stalled.

Ranger24

OMF'n&*^% these TAs are a major PITA! That constant shaking of the Sawzall is enough to drive a man insane. I was able to get one cut out tonight after about 40 mins worth of work making two cuts so one down, an understanding of the process/approach and one to go.

Ranger24

BTW, those TA grade 8 bolts are tough. I consulted my local Lowes handy guy in the tools department and he highly recommended the Lenox Extreme Metal blades. I went through two of them on one trailing arm (not bad based on other posts I've seen) so I highly recommend these.

rajin cajin

Ya, It was either lenox or Milwaukee blades I used. The cheap yellow blades didn't last long. Have you managed to get the bolt out of the trailing arm?? I had to put mine in a 12 ton press to press the bolt shaft out of the trailing arm.