Ranger24

Ok, I'm starting this sooner than planned but because an engine issue has cropped up that may cause it to detonate I've decided to park it and start on the restoration work now. The approach I'm taking is to work on the bottom half of the car moving from the stern to the bow and then do the motor and interior.

The first thing I am doing is dropping the fuel tank, removing the tail light assemblies and bumper brackets so I can begin working the frame issues. I plan to knock the rust back and spray as much of the frame as I can with rust inhibitor. With the tank out of the way this becomes a much easier job I believe.

The following photos are of the various pieces I am focusing on now and as progress moves forward I will continue to share. Currently, I've removed the fuel from the tank (truck is now half full) and removed the connections from the sending unit. As you may be able to see in the photos I have already run into an issue. The male end on the sending unit was frozen into the wiring harness so I'll need to address that when the new tank goes in. Today the tank comes down.


Enjoy the ride.

Ranger24

More photos:

Ranger24

Tank is out along with all the bumper brackets and wiring harness. Bracket bolts were a *&^*&%.

Ranger24

Couple of pics of the frame once everything was out of the way, after a bit of grinding and then with the paint.

Ranger24

Got the back end grinded and painted.

Ranger24

I found this mounted behind the left rear body mount. Is this the car horn...seems like an odd place for the car horn and I can't find this on Ecklers or Zip.

Anyone know what it is?

GRipp 73

That is the horn for your alarm system

Ranger24

Thanks!

Ranger24

Anyone have any thoughts on how to fix this little problem? The male end from the fuel sending unit broke off in the connector.

DBez93

Good luck with the project, I'm following it, as for the connector, buy a new one & crimp it in place, an entirely new harness would be a total pain, but I've cracked into the center console to see an electricians nightmare in my car, so when the time (& money) come to truly tear apart the car, wiring is going to be a high priority after sanding & painting the frame... 30+ year old wiring is never to be trusted

doorgunner

If there is enough still protruding from the sending unit, you could clean off the rust and solder an extension to it........
then as the other member said------Buy a new connector/
cut off the rusted connector/
slip heat-shrink onto the original wiring/
splice the new connector into the original wiring/
SOLDER the splices/
slide the heat shrink over the soldered connections and heat-shrink it.

Ranger24

There wasn't anything protruding. I have located a replacement and plan to do just as you suggest by using the solder/heat shrink approach. There are a few other areas that need the same treatment.

doorgunner

Thanks for the update....keep us informed.

terrys6t8roadster

If the plastic housing is OK, they sell new copper ends, both male & female that you can replace. You should be able to get them from any good parts house. T

Ranger24

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Ranger24

This weekend, as I wait on parts, I started cleaning up the bumper brackets and lower fuel tank cross member.

Ranger24

After a lot of grinding with discs and wire wheels the brackets are now cleaned and painted.

72LS1Vette

What are you painting the parts with? If you aren't using a base prep like RustBullet or POR-15 you may be just wasting your effort. Grinding to bare metal is good but ordinary paint will start rusting again very quickly.



Rick B.

Ranger24

Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate the input. I'm using Eastwood Rust Ecapsulator, which acts as a primer and rust inhibitor. According to the tech at the company it can be sprayed on clean rust or clean bare metal.

Ranger24

Parts for the tank came in along with the tail light housings. I couldn't wait for the weekend so I assembled the tank with the exception of the sending unit. I won't put that on until the tank is mounted in the car.