TedH

I finally got around to replacing the intake gaskets to see if the oil consumption was related to ingesting oil via leaking intake gaskets. No improvement. I used a Permatex gasket dressing on both sides of the gasket around all 8 intake ports. I positioned the gaskets carefully and torqued to 30 ft lbs. Smoked on start up and then smoked (light smoke but smoke all the same) as it warmed up and then each time I started it when checking for coolant and motor oil leaks. I hoped that if the intake were pulling oil, the dressing would have helped.

Worth noting, the old intake gaskets WERE wet with oil on both sides...

Should the intake gaskets have oil on them? I had no indication of oil on the top side of the intake. I did notice oil in the EGR passage (Edelbrock 3701 intake) when I tipped the intake manifold over for cleaning.

I assume I should next check clearance betw intake and heads.... then, if within tolerances, try thicker intake gaskets?

There is no oil leakage from front or rear intake gasket/rails. The oil smoke is a light blue color and smells of oil.

Amorget

How many miles are on your motor? The rings or valve stem seals also could be letting oil in.

TedH

Rings would be next. I had the cylinder heads rebuilt with new guides, upgraded positive lock seals and spring kits.

Question: Fel Pro makes both 1204 and 1256. 1256 seems to be the printoseal variety.

should I swap the 1256 in place of the 1204 (and with the permatex dressing on both sides of gaskets)?

I am reading the intake gaskets will wick up oil over time... but since I just started the motor and it is already smoking, I'm thinking it is more than the gaskets soaking up oil... it sounds more like rings now... if it is not ill-fitting intake gasket.

My DART 180's call for 1.23"x1.99" gaskets (the 1204/1256 dimensions).

The Edelbrock 3701 intake calls for 1.28"x2.09 gaskets (the 1205 dimensions).

I assumed I should go with the gasket for the cylinder heads (1204 recommended) as the intake (1205 recommended) is resting on that surface. I figured if the intake has slightly larger ports, no problem... the difference between the two gasket sets is 5 hundredths on width and 10 hundredths height (1/10").

Did I miss the mark?

TedH

My DART heads do not have EGR passages. I had oil in the EGR passages of the 3701 when I cleaned it.

Perhaps I should try the 2101 intake so that it mates better to my cylinder heads (no EGR).

I also have some issues getting a wrench on the two bolts that are on the passenger side of intake (middle 2). The one is almost impossible to torque properly where it is between EGR and heat stove.

I have electric choke and don't use the heat stove either.

I could try:
Install Fel-Pro 1256 gasket with the 3701
Swap in 2101 with Fel-Pro 1256 printoseal
Swap in 2101 with Fel-Pro 1205

TedH

I have decided to pull the 3701 intake and install a fresh 2101 with Fel-Pro 1205 printoseal gaskets. Going to clean all surfaces and install Gasgacinch on the cylinder head surfaces and the side of the intake gaskets that will contact the cylinder heads. Will cure both applications and then install.

I will compare the 1204/1205 before I glue everything up (I have a set of both in the garage currently).

bozzman3

Did u check the pcv hose to make sure the car is not sucking in oil from there?Did u pull the tranny modulator hose to make sure that its not sucking trans fluid ?

bozzman3

Use the 1205 and are you following the correct torque sequence?

garygnu

bozzman has some great ideas to check out .also check the valve seals to make sure they are were they suppose to be .

TedH

New bronze guides and positive lock seals in 2013 with cylinder head refresh.

Going with the 1205 gasket with Gasgacinch glue and the 2101 intake. 2101 will elim the tight fit on the bolts near EGR/heat stove. Heads have no heat crossover ports.

There is no trans hose as I converted to 700R4 back around 2002.

PCV is not pulling oil. I eliminated that possibility.

Engine came with aluminum intake in '80. Shop Manual calls for 30ft lbs torque. I've seen some literature from Edelbrock that calls for 25 ft lbs.

TedH

Religiously.

doorgunner

Maybe I wasn't paying attention.....When you install an intake manifold....test fit it first with NO gaskets....use a filller gauge to make.sure there is an equal air gap either side-to-side or front and rear...

If the intake manifold "bottoms out" on the front/rear of the block.....Make sure the gasket pieces will be thick enough to fill in the gap at the intake ports once the front and rear pieces are installed.

I hope I worded it so that it makes sense...I had a "gap" problem with my 350 cu.in.....I needed thicker port gaskets.

bozzman3

What gaskets are you using for the ends?Get rid of those rubber strips and use the right stuff instead

TedH

I plan to use 1/4" bead (tall) of RTV per Edelbrock suggestion. I had used the end gaskets that came with the Fel-Pros.

TedH

Good info. I will check the gaps as you recommend.

gatorp

Have you done a cylinder leak down test to rule out bad rings? I have built many a small block back in my younger days, never used any sealant on the intake gaskets except at the corners front and back to seal the lifter valley. If your heads were surfaced this could cause a difference in how your intake fits, especially if they were surfaced incorrectly as in a slight angle. I would use some plastic gauge between the manifold and heads,no gasket,torque bolts, need not be full torque specs,then remove the manifold and you will know for sure if it is an intake gasket problem.

TedH

I've run a compression test and I get 160psi or better on all cylinders.

Once I've ruled out the intake leaking, there is only the rings left to rule out. I've figured intake leaking due to the high compression reading. Also, the engine runs VERY strong; it is not down on power and does not demonstrate any distress. Only way I know the plugs are fouling is to pull them. The HEI does a good job of burning most of the oil off the plugs so they are not heavily fouled.

gatorp

[QUOTE=TedH;1587098269]I've run a compression test and I get 160psi or better on all cylinders.

Once I've ruled out the intake leaking, there is only the rings left to rule out. I've figured intake leaking due to the high compression reading. Also, the engine runs VERY strong; it is not down on power and does not demonstrate any distress. Only way I know the plugs are fouling is to pull them. The HEI does a good job of burning most of the oil off the plugs so they are not heavily fouled.[/Q A leakdown test will tell the story on whether the rings are sealing or not. A compression test will not. Borrow a leak down kit and do...only way to diagnose the rings.

TedH

[QUOTE=gatorp;1587098298]OK. Will do that once I verify the intake sealing properly. Concerned that the intake gaskets I removed after refresh in 2013 are soaked with oil on both sides. I installed them dry. Going to remove the 3701 intake and 1204 gaskets which were dressed around all intake ports and replace with 2101 and 1205 gaskets with gasgacinch dressing on cylinder head sides of gaskets.

Will be verifying intake gap (without gaskets) with 2101 once I clean off all surfaces.

doorgunner

TedH.....you're a good man for "hanging in there" with all this advice being given to you from long distances.


As for the leakdown test:
You probably know to listen closely at the intake and exhaust ports when doing a leakdown test to make sure it's not one of the valves that is leaking, rather than the rings---which would give you a false conclusion on the cylinder being tested.

70BBvert

When the heads were rebuilt were the valves replaced as well? I spent a long time chasing a similar problem on the 390 engine in my Mustang, replaced gaskets, rebuilt the heads twice, checked intake gaps with feeler gauges, replaced valve seals, changed intakes, etc. Even pulled the engine to replace the rings all to no avail.

Finally took the heads to a different machine shop who found the valve stems were worn, tapered top to bottom by approx .003"

Told me this would have worn out the valve guides in a very short period of time. Replaced the guides & all the valves and have not had a problem in the past 10 years. Previously I would burn a qt of oil in less than 100 miles. Couldn't drive the car with smelling like burning oil after a short drive and the back of the car was covered in oil residue.

I would start with a leak down test before replacing the gaskets again.

Jim