Vacuum leak at headlamp
07-14-2014, 12:21 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Vacuum leak at headlamp
while searching for a vacuum leak causing an idle issue, I found a leak at the right headlamp. With external a vacuum pump setup I can hear the leak. pulled and plugged the hoses and the entire system held vacuum. Reconnected the lines and where the actuator arm is I can change the pitch of the leak. Are these canisters rebuildable?
And wondering what all I need to do to tackle the job. Seems every time I put one piece back on I need to remove two to fix something else.
And wondering what all I need to do to tackle the job. Seems every time I put one piece back on I need to remove two to fix something else.
07-14-2014, 06:40 AM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi 70,
If it's the seal for the actuator's rod that's leaking, it's available and replaceable.
The seal is under the rubber accordion dust boot you see on the rod.
There's a metal ring retainer on the seal that needs to be removed to make the switch, but that's quite easy.
The seal on the internal diaphragm isn't replaceable.
If the leak is heard when the pump is on the straight (green) port it's the diaphragm seal. If it's heard when the pump is on the curved (red) port it's the rod's seal.
Regards,
Alan
If it's the seal for the actuator's rod that's leaking, it's available and replaceable.
The seal is under the rubber accordion dust boot you see on the rod.
There's a metal ring retainer on the seal that needs to be removed to make the switch, but that's quite easy.
The seal on the internal diaphragm isn't replaceable.
If the leak is heard when the pump is on the straight (green) port it's the diaphragm seal. If it's heard when the pump is on the curved (red) port it's the rod's seal.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 07-14-2014 at 06:49 AM.
07-14-2014, 08:15 AM
#4
Race Director
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Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
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If it is the shaft seal (which it sounds like) and not the actual diaphragm it is an easy fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...new-seals.html
Just make sure you count how many turns you need to make to remove the clevis so you can re-install the same without having to spend a bunch of time adjusting the system again
HIH
M
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...new-seals.html
Just make sure you count how many turns you need to make to remove the clevis so you can re-install the same without having to spend a bunch of time adjusting the system again
HIH
M
07-14-2014, 10:55 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I believe it is the seal. Is it possible to change without removing the actuator?
The headlamp does go up and down. So I think the bellows inside is ok.
Not quite ready to spend a lot to go to electric.
The headlamp does go up and down. So I think the bellows inside is ok.
Not quite ready to spend a lot to go to electric.
07-14-2014, 10:59 PM
#6
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M
07-28-2014, 11:42 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Fixed the problem. the seal kit worked out. Only thing in all the videos and post they forgot to mention one small item that is easily overlooked.
The dust cover has a small weep hole and should be on the bottom to drain any water that might get in it.
Turning it might make it rip so it's a good idea to install it by finding the hole first
The dust cover has a small weep hole and should be on the bottom to drain any water that might get in it.
Turning it might make it rip so it's a good idea to install it by finding the hole first