Belgian1979vette

Yes, I have, but that makes them suck in the hot air from the headers.

Meanwhile on the other side I have a problem with the tube entry. I have to put it closer to the engine centerline due to the proximity of the alternator + bracket. The tube is bigger than the height of the box so it protrudes some above. On the other side I could move the tube downward since the valve covers was offset more to the back. Here this is not possible, so the tube has sits higher than the box. Need to make some sort of transition and at the same time be able to seal it.

REELAV8R

Those look very nice. Lots of work into that design.
Wondering if there should be some kind of heat barrier/insulation applied to keep it all from soaking up too much heat from under the hood and valve covers and kind of pre-heating your intake charge.
I suppose wouldn't be too much of a concern if the air was moving through there fast enough like at WOT. But what about cruise and idle or lower RPM operations?

resdoggie

Run the intake tubes to draw cold air from wheel wells i.e. the inner fenders and use the panel filters? Trying to install a filter outside of the stack intake box limits your options for placement. A 3" dia tube for each side should supply enough air. Looking at your pics, nice job btw, why not take inlet air into the boxes from the sides vs the front?

Belgian1979vette

That's only an option on the passenger side. On the driversside everything is stuffed with the brake booster, steering gear...

Belgian1979vette

Well, that has crossed my mind as well. Previously I ran a carb on this engine with 360° filter. That was even worse.

I found out that the heat coming of the exhaust headers forms a convection that makes the heat end up right on top of the engine (highest part in the hood). From there it usually goes out through the back of the hood (L88 with open rear in my case). Plus the radiator adds more heat to all of this.

I measured the temps with the IAT sensor in that area and they run up to 130°F in 28°C weather so that's quite a lot of heat.

I intend to put a heat schield blanket on the headers to reduce the heat convection.

Possible my next move might be electric fans that only come on when neede.

Not sure how else to deal with it though.

Belgian1979vette

Trial fit with both boxes. Still a lot of work to do (final welding and grinding)



It's rather 'stuffed' under there.

REELAV8R

I was thinking along the lines of a ceramic spray on coating. Not sure how well something like that would work under heat soak conditions though. Eventually the heat would penetrate and everything would be roughly the same temp under the hood.
The fans sound like a decent idea just to keep the air moving through instead of stagnating under the hood at slower speeds. Lot of stuff under the hood though.

Belgian1979vette

Yes it will heat soak as well. I just hope that cool air will help reducing that heat some.

Belgian1979vette

Ran across a problem.

I was trying to make a seal between the lid and the actually box. I used blue RTV, with the lid side covered with vaseline to prevent the rtv sticking through it.

However the RTV won't cure like this. Apparently it needs air to do that and due to the Vaseline it probably doesn't get air/moisture.

REELAV8R

Could try a painters tape or some other low tack tape instead.

cardo0

Sounds like all u need is a "gasket" though u prefer RTV/silicone. Sheet gasket material is getting harder to find in the US let alone overseas - in Belgium only u would know. Pep Boys had a roll of generic gasket material but i found a nice sheet(s) of material made by Clevite for Mahle (mahle is a german company i believe) that i used on my camaros EGR. Sold in different thicknesses too - 1/16", 3/32", 1/8". Plenty of gasket vendors online though.

Making gaskets is somewhat fun - just pencil the outline or paper transfer and cut it out.

Good luck. BTW where did/are the air intakes located?

pauldana

And that is the reason i made mine out of fiberglass...

you can use your aluminum unit you built to make a mold, and make a fiberglass unit./

Belgian1979vette

For the time being above/in front of the A-arms. This is the area where there is the least rad and header heat.

Belgian1979vette

update





I've used some generic seals that I found in a hardware store (foam type seals that are used to seal of windows/doors). I tested them in an oven during 20 minutes at 100°C and they seemed to hold up fine. Also immersed them in gasoline for an entire night and they were fine. Only the glue dissolved.

I had to disassemble some coolant line for the heater and put in a longer one to clear the right box. Had to refill the coolant system.

Just warmed it up to operating temps to get all air purged out as much as possible and she's cooling down now.

Overall the system seems to work. The sound of the stacks is somewhat reduced although when blipping the throttle there is definatly some aggressiveness in the sound.
The box seems to stay quite cool during this brief run. Also the stacks themselves stay cooler. I got IAT temps of around 31°C. Outside temps are around 20°C. Not sure if that will remain like this when driving.

Had to put in some rather difficult bends in the right airbox tube to get the filter to sit in the front and to avoid the tube from obstructing closure of the hood.

After warmup I took off the lids and the seals seems to be ok.

Hopefully it stays like that when I'm going to testdrive.

REELAV8R

Is that the final position of the intake cones?
Is there a way to get them down behind the air dam maybe for cooler air?

garygnu

how about using some flattened piping to go over the top of the radiator ? I have seen steel flattened piping from exhaust companies .you could use small aluminum tubing ,split it and weld in some aluminum sheet metal .

Belgian1979vette

You would need to have both side of the flattened center to go back to round, which is not as easy to do. Also, I would think you need to be able to take it out, so it should have to be made in 2 pieces. And I would need 2 of those.

Belgian1979vette

No the area in front of the radiator is blocked by the shroud and the crossmember.

Gale Banks 80'

With my Twin Turbo set up I ended up running Ducts threw the fender wells and around the Radiator and then I have K&N Filters down in the Bumper area. I'm not so sure its got the best flow, but it was about my only option. I used Aluminum weld ells to make it and I have contemplated replacing the fender area with a molded in Fiberglass duct.

Belgian1979vette

Was there space enough ? The fender well is crowded with the tire turning in.

Also , where did you cut the hole ?