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Header and Intake manifold bolt selection.

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Old 08-02-2014, 04:44 PM   #1
jotto
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Default Header and Intake manifold bolt selection.

My son is over in the US at the moment and is going to pick me up some bolts for my stainless headers and for an intake swap.

For the headers I was looking at either ARP 400-1201 or 400-1101, the only difference I can see is the head type, 12 point and hex. Is that the only difference? I dont think I need the drilled ones.

When looking for intake bolts, I want black and came up with 3 ARP selections but am confused as to which set to buy, 2 are 12 point and one is hex. Any ideas what the difference between the 12 point sets are? 134-2102, 134-2101 and 134-2001. The 2102 set is about $10 more expensive but looking at the summit site, it doesnt really explain the difference.

Appreciate any insight.

Intake bolts, black.

Header bolts

Last edited by jotto; 08-02-2014 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:49 PM   #2
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THe only difference I see is stainless steel vs Chromemoly. For the intake I prefer 12pt so they are easier to get a wrench on the center ones. Same for Exhaust header bolts too.

The 2102 look longer.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:11 AM   #3
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Jotto - tread carefully here with header bolts. With my bb and alloy Brodix heads the length of of the header bolts as sold by ARP (3/4") was insufficient. They were marginal with Hedman headers allowing barely 3/8" inch thread into the head. Changing to Hooker headers with a thicker flange reduced that to 1/4" - ripe for stripping out threads. Real Steel sell loose 12 point stainless ARP bolts that are slightly longer that do the job (1 1/4" I think) And yes, use 12 point as they are easier to tighten up.
BTW for my bb I actually bought an additional stainless 12 point intake bolt set and used them for the headers as they are longer (1 1/4" I seem to recall) - don't know if same thing applies with small block though! Rgds., Ross

Last edited by roscobbc; 08-03-2014 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:46 AM   #4
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Cheers Ross, will check the header flange thickness as I have OBX headers and it looks fairly thick. Time I add a washer and a gasket....

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Jotto - tread carefully here with header bolts. With my bb and alloy Brodix heads the length of of the header bolts as sold by ARP (3/4") was insufficient. They were marginal with Hedman headers allowing barely 3/8" inch thread into the head. Changing to Hooker headers with a thicker flange reduced that to 1/4" - ripe for stripping out threads. Real Steel sell loose 12 point stainless ARP bolts that are slightly longer that do the job (1 1/4" I think) And yes, use 12 point as they are easier to tighten up.
BTW for my bb I actually bought an additional stainless 12 point intake bolt set and used them for the headers as they are longer (1 1/4" I seem to recall) - don't know if same thing applies with small block though! Rgds., Ross
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:42 AM   #5
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Cheers Ross, will check the header flange thickness as I have OBX headers and it looks fairly thick. Time I add a washer and a gasket....
Essential if using ally heads to use copper grease on threads - helps prevent bolts seizing-up.
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:32 AM   #6
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I used socket head type bolts. The interference between the header and the bolt head is eliminated. In the areas where the header pipe bends sharply toward the bolt, I cut off a 1/2" piece of allen wrench, inserted it into the bolt and then used an end wrench on that to tighten.
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Old 08-03-2014, 02:06 PM   #7
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I agree...socket head header bolts make the job much easier.
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:34 AM   #8
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I agree...socket head header bolts make the job much easier.
Ditto on the socket head bolts for headers, 1 in.
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