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That's not really correct though. The engine is roughly 1" shorter overall. They did that by making the bell housing flange smaller. To keep the ENGINE in the stock position, you need to use the stock location mounts. If you want to keep the STOCK transmission in the same position, then you need to move the whole engine back an inch (because the inch was chopped off the back). Try thinking about it from a non-retrofit application (IE not mating a new engine to an old tranny). If I want the engine in the same spot as the old one, which mounts do I use?
Like I said, I totally agree its confusing. Once you understand why they call it what they do though, you can understand.
I don't see how there could be any benefit in mounting the engine 1" ahead of where it needs to be in what you think is the stock position. Nothing fits. Who cares if the engine is 1" shorter if it's in the wrong place?
Nevermind. The purpose of these posts is to help others. Readers can read and probably understand what I am saying and therefore prevent them from making the same mistakes that misinformation caused for me when bolting in an LSx engine in place of an sbc.
Thanks Guys! For me, I think the 1" set back will work best. Since I am using the 4L60E automatic transmission, this shouldn't be a problem. Also, I like idea of having the center of mass of the engine closer to the centerline of the vehicle.
Also, I can imagine that having the extra room up front for the accessories will make servicing a little easier. I think I saw the adjustable ones online so that may be the way I go.
Thanks again for all the comments...they help me think through the issues before I have the engine in the air!
So in your case, you are not using the stock length trans, not requiring clutch linkage, your shifter will likely be cable, you may consider looking at all options seeing as you are MODIFYING and your engine doesn't necessarily need to be in the correct position. Your trans will be longer [maybe an inch and can re-use your driveshaft and mount?].
Tho interestingly, when I finally got my engine where it belonged, the original clutch fan fit PERFECTLY in the shroud! Depth and alignment. Tho I suppose it wouldn't have hurt it to be 1" deeper into the shroud. But I did and still do appreciate the extra room at the front of the eng - not needlessly jammed up against the rad.
You will probably want stock location mounts (not 1" setback). You will need all the room you can get around the rear of the tranny and the tunnel. There isn't much room there to begin with, and if you shove the tranny further rear, you make the problem worse.
Mine is sat 1" or so back. Here is what you need to take into consideration.
1. You need to modify the trans cross member bracket. The 1980 removable auto one you can cut the stock mount off, cut the end off (shorten it) and re weld it back on. See my thread for details.
2. You need to use a flexible dipstick
3. You need to shorten the drive shaft
4. You dont need to relocate the alternator up high
5. You still need to block off the heater hoses from the water pump
6. You will need 45 degree and 60 degree fittings to run the return and supply lines for the trans cooler so you clear the body tunnel
There may be more things but thats all i have found so far in my process.
Hello,
Need a little quick help. All of this 1" back 1" forward stuff has my head spinning. I am putting an LQ9 mated to a T56 in my frame off 71'. I have these mounts that say they put the engine in the same spot. Are these going to work for what I am doing? I know I have to mod the transmission cross member and shorten my driveshaft. Right now i want to make sure i have the right mounts so when i go to sit this body back on I am not up the creek without a paddle and already have everything plumbed. Here is a link to my mounts.
Hello,
Need a little quick help. All of this 1" back 1" forward stuff has my head spinning. I am putting an LQ9 mated to a T56 in my frame off 71'. I have these mounts that say they put the engine in the same spot. Are these going to work for what I am doing? I know I have to mod the transmission cross member and shorten my driveshaft. Right now i want to make sure i have the right mounts so when i go to sit this body back on I am not up the creek without a paddle and already have everything plumbed. Here is a link to my mounts.
I can tell you that those energy susp mounts are the culprit mounts that DO NOT put the engine in the stock location. Your original mechanical clutch linkage will not line up etc. If you are using a hyd clutch, have to shorten you Dr Shaft, and move your crossmember anyway it doesn't really matter. I posted a pic of the type that I feel are correct - they do not conveniently use the same holes. I found out all the bs AFTER building my headers. Look at "Dirty Dingos" offerings.
Ha! Confused yet? I went with the motor mounts sold that share holes with the stock motor mount, which moves the engine/tranny mate forward 1”. This allowed the use of late model Camaro 3/4 length headers with only some minor trimming to the 700R4 bell housing. Now, if only I can find some 3/4 headers with 3” collectors. I plugged the water pump holes (no heater) and the cooling is just fine.
Ha! Confused yet? I went with the motor mounts sold that share holes with the stock motor mount, which moves the engine/tranny mate forward 1”. This allowed the use of late model Camaro 3/4 length headers with only some minor trimming to the 700R4 bell housing. Now, if only I can find some 3/4 headers with 3” collectors. I plugged the water pump holes (no heater) and the cooling is just fine.
So my findings agree with yours, that those mounts that share holes actually move the engine 1". Why they call those "Stock Location" for so many years is beyond me. I read once that they were were referring to placing the drivers side head the same distance from the firewall. Who cares if your clutch linkage and drive shaft need to be modified. The dirty dingo adjustable solve all problems. I ended up using their adjustable solid mounts after several sets. Don't see those listed anymore.
[QUOTE=00fxd;1602125798]I can tell you that those energy susp mounts are the culprit mounts that DO NOT put the engine in the stock location. Your original mechanical clutch linkage will not line up etc. If you are using a hyd clutch, have to shorten you Dr Shaft, and move your crossmember anyway it doesn't really matter. I posted a pic of the type that I feel are correct - they do not conveniently use the same holes. I found out all the bs AFTER building my headers. Look at "Dirty Dingos" offerings. [/QUOTE
so...I am running a t56 and plan to run a hydraulic bearing. will these mounts that I have work fine with that? do these sit my engine what they call 1" forward from stock? what trans were u running that the linkage didnt align on?
]
Last edited by mwinchel1; 09-04-2020 at 09:27 PM.
Reason: wrong
Im in the middle of my ls2/T56 swap (and will be for a while). But I ended up doing the 1" forward for a very different reason. Space in the tunnel for the tranny. Its a much larger tranny than original, and in order to get the space needed, as well as putting the shifter closer to stock location (I said closer, not same ), and getting the correct angles in the driveshaft, there was just no way to cram it in there without moving it forward. I still had to cut out my x-member and build new mounts for the tranny of course. Anyways, the energy suspension ones you linked are indeed the 1" forward variety.
07-26-2016, 02:29 PM
), and getting the correct angles in the driveshaft, there was just no way to cram it in there without moving it forward. I still had to cut out my x-member and build new mounts for the tranny of course. Anyways, the energy suspension ones you linked are indeed the 1" forward variety.