Resuface flywheel or replace?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Resuface flywheel or replace?
I removed the flywheel from my 70 LS5, clutch was chattering. I replaced the clutch when I did a frame off twenty years ago but foolishly tried to save money by skipping the flywheel resurface. Paying for that mistake now.
I see some hairline cracks on the surface here and there, not a lot of them but they're present. NAPA quoted $80 to resurface. Question is can a machinist tell if any cracking is present after resurfacing? NAPA offers a replacement for $120. I don't know where the replacement comes from, could be China. I generally prefer to recondition OEM parts. In this case I wonder about safety, whether a machinist could tell me if it's salvageable.
If not, is the NAPA product a good choice for a stock LS5?
Thoughts or experiences?
I see some hairline cracks on the surface here and there, not a lot of them but they're present. NAPA quoted $80 to resurface. Question is can a machinist tell if any cracking is present after resurfacing? NAPA offers a replacement for $120. I don't know where the replacement comes from, could be China. I generally prefer to recondition OEM parts. In this case I wonder about safety, whether a machinist could tell me if it's salvageable.
If not, is the NAPA product a good choice for a stock LS5?
Thoughts or experiences?
#2
Safety Car
I would attempt the resurface small cost, if it fails and cracks are visible, get a replacement. if it cleans up of you have your original,
not some cheap made in china with recycled tin cans.
the machinist can check for cracks after it is machined.
not some cheap made in china with recycled tin cans.
the machinist can check for cracks after it is machined.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That's what I'm concerned about. I'd rather keep the original flywheel rather than buy a new one of unknown quality. The cracks are a concern. If a machinist can verify the cracks are gone, great, I'll keep the original. Thanks.
#5
Red Road Warrior
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: Lansdale 19446 PA
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
I had the same clutch chattering when I got my 76. I took my flywheel to NAPA and had it resurfaced. They will remove only what is necessary to get rid of the cracks.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had the same clutch chattering when I got my 76. I took my flywheel to NAPA and had it resurfaced. They will remove only what is necessary to get rid of the cracks.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.
#7
Team Owner
I'm not a fan of 40 year old fly wheels with surface cracks in them. I have been blessed with the money to buy SFI rated items.
LS5's have moderate power and not high rpm. You could have yours machined and it will be much lighter. I had a 30 pound SFI 168 tooth 11 inch clutch shaved down to 22 pounds. Lighter flywheels make it more fun. I've since gone to a 10 pound 153 tooth aluminum.
The world is full of choices. Flywheels can be a lifetime long investment.
LS5's have moderate power and not high rpm. You could have yours machined and it will be much lighter. I had a 30 pound SFI 168 tooth 11 inch clutch shaved down to 22 pounds. Lighter flywheels make it more fun. I've since gone to a 10 pound 153 tooth aluminum.
The world is full of choices. Flywheels can be a lifetime long investment.
#9
Race Director
$80 sounds like a lot to cut a flywheel, I would check around. If you or anyone else is interested I have a genuine GM 454 flywheel that had a fresh cut then got wet, $95 plus postage although I think it might go USPS flat rate in a medium box for $12.
#10
Team Owner
You will probably not find a GOOD quality replacement part for $100 or less. I would stay with the original, IF:
There are no chipped, damaged teeth on it;
The cracking appears to be at the surface and due to surface heating;
You feel confident in the machining capabilities of the NAPA store and personnel.
Otherwise, buy a new, QUALITY part...a lighter one would be better (but more expensive).
There are no chipped, damaged teeth on it;
The cracking appears to be at the surface and due to surface heating;
You feel confident in the machining capabilities of the NAPA store and personnel.
Otherwise, buy a new, QUALITY part...a lighter one would be better (but more expensive).
#11
Le Mans Master
[QUOTEno Vette Go;1587736565]I had the same clutch chattering when I got my 76. I took my flywheel to NAPA and had it resurfaced. They will remove only what is necessary to get rid of the cracks.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.[/QUOTE]
I did not use any shims with the resurfaced flywheel and new clutch kit- balanced yes. Adjusted clutch free play and good to go.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.[/QUOTE]
I did not use any shims with the resurfaced flywheel and new clutch kit- balanced yes. Adjusted clutch free play and good to go.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You will probably not find a GOOD quality replacement part for $100 or less. I would stay with the original, IF:
There are no chipped, damaged teeth on it;
The cracking appears to be at the surface and due to surface heating;
You feel confident in the machining capabilities of the NAPA store and personnel.
Otherwise, buy a new, QUALITY part...a lighter one would be better (but more expensive).
There are no chipped, damaged teeth on it;
The cracking appears to be at the surface and due to surface heating;
You feel confident in the machining capabilities of the NAPA store and personnel.
Otherwise, buy a new, QUALITY part...a lighter one would be better (but more expensive).
I could go with a steel flywheel from Hayes or some other aftermarket?
[QUOTEno Vette Go;1587736565]I had the same clutch chattering when I got my 76. I took my flywheel to NAPA and had it resurfaced. They will remove only what is necessary to get rid of the cracks.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.
I did not use any shims with the resurfaced flywheel and new clutch kit- balanced yes. Adjusted clutch free play and good to go.
When you pick up your flywheel - get shims equal to the amount of material removed. Shims will go between the crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel surface in the original/stock position.
I did not use any shims with the resurfaced flywheel and new clutch kit- balanced yes. Adjusted clutch free play and good to go.
I hated to tear this car down again so I want to go with what gives me the best peace of mind without over spending.
#13
Le Mans Master
The shims on the resurfaced flywheel reminds me of the discussion around measuring a cam button for my roller cam and the "black" magic of measuring pushrods for the roller cam-so much of this stuff is way overplayed….
#14
Le Mans Master
I bought a RAM #1521 for $300 and it could not be mounted. The mounting holes were off just enough that 1 bolt could not be installed no matter how it was clocked. It's a decoration in my garage now. I had the OEM flywheel resurfaced locally for $30 and it works fine.
#15
Le Mans Master
I just put a RAM HDX clutch kit-$350 on my 355 L-82 4 speed and it fit perfectly-no issues. My builder for the short block recommended RAM for my applications since he has used many of them with zero problems. Why didn't you just return your clutch?
#16
Melting Slicks
Flywheel
When doing my 70 clutch I replaced everything using the OEM manufacturer LUK. I had the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel balanced as a unit by a machine shop. The machine shop will put a mark and dye to note how the units aligned as they were balanced.
Also check to make sure the ball stud is in good shape and that the throw out bearing is installed correctly.
Lastly, make sure the pilot busing is not magnetic. Most made today are magnetic, if only slightly. It should be a bronze (oilite), non magnetic bushing.
There is no way I would trust a 40 year old flywheel with even a hint of cracks IMHO.
You may also want to consider having the Muncie checked out while everything is out and rebuild the shifter.
Bill
Also check to make sure the ball stud is in good shape and that the throw out bearing is installed correctly.
Lastly, make sure the pilot busing is not magnetic. Most made today are magnetic, if only slightly. It should be a bronze (oilite), non magnetic bushing.
There is no way I would trust a 40 year old flywheel with even a hint of cracks IMHO.
You may also want to consider having the Muncie checked out while everything is out and rebuild the shifter.
Bill
#17
A good machine shop will do a mag inspection (magnaflux is a trade mark) prior to surfacing; penetrant will not pick up any subsurface cracks which may be caused by metal smearing. You can use a 10x magnafying glass to check prior to the mag inspection yourself for surface indications; cracks will appear jagged although they may appear straight when doing a standard visual inspection with out magnification.
Make sure you check the gear on both the flywheel AND the starter.
Also, I agree; the price quoted for machining is pretty high.
Make sure you check the gear on both the flywheel AND the starter.
Also, I agree; the price quoted for machining is pretty high.
#18
Napa isn't the only place selling parts/service...also there is probably a minimum dimension after machining (like a brake rotor)...if the cracks are gone and it meets dimensional specs I would not be afraid to reinstall...Good Luck!
#19
NAPA quoted $121 for a replacement. I don't know where it comes from, assume China? $80 to resurface.
I could go with a steel flywheel from Hayes or some other aftermarket?
I got a funny look when I asked about shims, counter man never heard of them. Bottom line is their machinist said the cracks will still be there after machining. Said they shouldn't be a problem unless I plan to rev the engine very high. What's very high I don't know. It's a stock big block, can't go too high.
I hated to tear this car down again so I want to go with what gives me the best peace of mind without over spending.
I could go with a steel flywheel from Hayes or some other aftermarket?
I got a funny look when I asked about shims, counter man never heard of them. Bottom line is their machinist said the cracks will still be there after machining. Said they shouldn't be a problem unless I plan to rev the engine very high. What's very high I don't know. It's a stock big block, can't go too high.
I hated to tear this car down again so I want to go with what gives me the best peace of mind without over spending.
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
When doing my 70 clutch I replaced everything using the OEM manufacturer LUK. I had the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel balanced as a unit by a machine shop. The machine shop will put a mark and dye to note how the units aligned as they were balanced. Also check to make sure the ball stud is in good shape and that the throw out bearing is installed correctly.
Lastly, make sure the pilot busing is not magnetic. Most made today are magnetic, if only slightly. It should be a bronze (oilite), non magnetic bushing.
There is no way I would trust a 40 year old flywheel with even a hint of cracks IMHO.
You may also want to consider having the Muncie checked out while everything is out and rebuild the shifter.
Bill
Lastly, make sure the pilot busing is not magnetic. Most made today are magnetic, if only slightly. It should be a bronze (oilite), non magnetic bushing.
There is no way I would trust a 40 year old flywheel with even a hint of cracks IMHO.
You may also want to consider having the Muncie checked out while everything is out and rebuild the shifter.
Bill
I'll check the pilot bearing, appears to be a bronze alloy. It was installed sometime in the mid 80's or early 90's. I'd guess the car hasn't had more than 5K miles put on it since then. This car spent a lot of time from early 90's to just a few years ago apart, project was put on hold for several years.
I'm considering rebuilding the shifter while it's out.
The transmission had all bearings, seals, blocking rings, and shifter forks replaced in the early 90's, factory parts. It has a slight leak in the front, hard to tell where it's coming from or whether it may have been overfilled once. I know the counter gear shaft is a common leak area but don't see how oil from there would get into the bell housing. Maybe a gasket issue on the bearing retainer? Could be the nut is installed backwards though I'd expect it to leak much more heavily in that case.
A good machine shop will do a mag inspection (magnaflux is a trade mark) prior to surfacing; penetrant will not pick up any subsurface cracks which may be caused by metal smearing. You can use a 10x magnafying glass to check prior to the mag inspection yourself for surface indications; cracks will appear jagged although they may appear straight when doing a standard visual inspection with out magnification.
Make sure you check the gear on both the flywheel AND the starter.
Also, I agree; the price quoted for machining is pretty high.
Make sure you check the gear on both the flywheel AND the starter.
Also, I agree; the price quoted for machining is pretty high.
Yes, $80 appears to be quite high compared to prices I've heard others paying for this service. I've lost track of local machine shops I used to deal with years ago. Not sure what shops are around and who has a good reputation.