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Anyone running RideTech suspension yet?

Old 09-29-2014, 11:36 PM
  #21  
Solid LT1
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Where I'm at with it... I like the crossmember mount, both for the diiff relocation, the fact that you can drop the diff without dropping the x-member, and what I consider to be the best of the various upper spring mounts for coilovers.

Van Steel's setup comes to $3900 for new control arms, trailing arms and coilover bits.

There's the Shark Bite rear setup, but, uh... pass. $1500 in the cheapest iteration, and I'll still have to do front control arms.

It's still... a LOT of money for the Ridetech setup, but... not horrible. Looks like the usual outlets have it for around $5500 for the base setup; still have to add a sway bar... at least a front one.

So basically, they haven't really fixed the toe-control problem more so allowed you to lower the car a bit more without extending into the range where the toe curve starts getting wacky?

The Ridetech effort is a good one but, for the back....I have a Greenwood 5 bar that solves the toe control problem. I'm considering selling some kits...I have enough parts for 2 Vettes right now. If you interested in looking at a Greenwood PM me.
Old 09-29-2014, 11:38 PM
  #22  
TheSkunkWorks
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
The Ridetech effort is a good one but, for the back....I have a Greenwood 5 bar that solves the toe control problem. I'm considering selling some kits...I have enough parts for 2 Vettes right now. If you interested in looking at a Greenwood PM me.
PM'ed
Old 09-30-2014, 12:00 AM
  #23  
Shark Racer
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FWIW, it's at 3 min.
Looks like it'd be pretty easy to get.

Don't forget the stock crossmember shrouds them so it's ONLY possible to get at them from the top.
Old 10-01-2014, 03:25 PM
  #24  
marolf101x
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You can remove the diff without removing the cross member. I designed it specifically for this purpose. Yes, it's tight. But you can get to the bolts from the side, so it's not too bad.
Old 10-01-2014, 08:44 PM
  #25  
l88rocket
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I haven't put Ridetech on a C-4, But I run them on every car I build now, you cant beat them for quality, ride, fit etc.. IMO there best shock on the market.
Old 01-03-2015, 11:01 AM
  #26  
CWerner
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Are there any others that have tried this setup yet and can share your thoughts?

I'm considering the setup on my C2.
Old 01-03-2015, 02:57 PM
  #27  
Shark Racer
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Originally Posted by CWerner
Are there any others that have tried this setup yet and can share your thoughts?

I'm considering the setup on my C2.
I bought the rear suspension kit with single adjustable shocks. I'm waiting for the spindles to be built and then I'll install them.

The parts are beautiful and a very good, comprehensive kit. Hopefully they'll get installed some time this month.
Old 02-17-2015, 05:31 PM
  #28  
bfit
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hello all
I have level 2 rear in my vette ( 70 model ) the improvement in handling is worth the out lay.
The benefit of being able to drive out of corners earlier, gains a lot of time .

I changed the mounting position of the sway bar to allow me to carry a spare wheel.
Bfit
Old 03-10-2015, 11:06 PM
  #29  
0chase@ridetech
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Check out the 48 Hour Corvette build

http://www.ridetech.com/48hourcorvette/
Old 03-15-2015, 06:16 PM
  #30  
NDBoyd
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Originally Posted by bfit
I changed the mounting position of the sway bar to allow me to carry a spare wheel.
Bfit
Was the rear sway bar a big issue to move?

NDBoyd
Old 03-27-2015, 10:15 AM
  #31  
0chase@ridetech
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see it in action this weekend at the Texas Motor Speedway!


http://www.texasmotorspeedway.com/up...ate-street-car
Old 03-31-2015, 12:01 AM
  #32  
bfit
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H mate sorry I have not replied before this.

to answer your question no
I made new brackets to mount the bar behind the chassis cross member.
Bfit
ps
The car handles so much better now
I can get on the power earlier in corners and I find I have much less rear end steer
under power.
you can see in the first photo how I lengthened the connecting link form the sway bar to the trailing arm
Attached Images    

Last edited by bfit; 03-31-2015 at 12:20 AM.
Old 04-01-2015, 12:46 PM
  #33  
NDBoyd
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Originally Posted by bfit
H mate sorry I have not replied before this.

to answer your question no
I made new brackets to mount the bar behind the chassis cross member.
Bfit
ps
The car handles so much better now
I can get on the power earlier in corners and I find I have much less rear end steer
under power.
you can see in the first photo how I lengthened the connecting link form the sway bar to the trailing arm
Thanks for the pictures and info! Big help in understanding what you did. Was going to make this a project for next winter, but I'm excited to get going. Also, great excuse for a lift, so I'm pressing ahead. Probably bug you again when I get the parts.

Thanks Again!
Old 04-01-2015, 12:54 PM
  #34  
69Myway
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I was at the 48 hour corvette build and got to look at this up close for many hours. The parts are pure works of art.

Looking to save my $$$$ for one on my wife's 69.
Old 04-01-2015, 09:04 PM
  #35  
bfit
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Originally Posted by 69Myway
I was at the 48 hour corvette build and got to look at this up close for many hours. The parts are pure works of art.

Looking to save my $$$$ for one on my wife's 69.
Its had to understand why some one has not done this set up
30 years ago.

There are others out there, however this is so simple and well made
Besides that the rear of my car is now predicable.

I can throw it in to a corner and still be braking then get on the power much earlier that with the stock stile tailing arm set up.

bfit
Old 04-02-2015, 08:32 AM
  #36  
0chase@ridetech
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looks good!
Old 04-02-2015, 02:03 PM
  #37  
FLYNAVY30
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For you guys who did the install yourself, any ballpark time estimates? Obviously brake upgrade/bleed time is going to factor into the equation. Im assuming based on the videos and the .pdf instructions on the web site that the most difficult part is going to be removing the factory trailing arms.

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Old 04-02-2015, 06:00 PM
  #38  
0ridetechbret
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Originally Posted by NDBoyd
Was the rear sway bar a big issue to move?

NDBoyd
Leave it off. We have found that unless you are racing with REALLY sticky tires on a fast road course, the car performs better without it. Street driving, or even racing with less than slicks, will not load the car enough to need it.
Old 04-02-2015, 06:09 PM
  #39  
FLYNAVY30
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Originally Posted by ridetechbret
Leave it off. We have found that unless you are racing with REALLY sticky tires on a fast road course, the car performs better without it. Street driving, or even racing with less than slicks, will not load the car enough to need it.
Thanks Bret, thats good to know....its always nice when a vendor is up front about their products and their true application!
Old 04-03-2015, 10:06 AM
  #40  
CWerner
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My C2 is going through the transformation right now. I went without the rear sway as recommended. After the suspension, then flares and then paint. I'll be driving her in May, so stay tuned!.

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