Wheel hop with IRS. What to do?
#2
The ORIGINAL and bestest
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Toronto Ontario
Posts: 10,009
Received 234 Likes
on
143 Posts
Toronto Events Coordinator
I also have issues with wheel hop that I would like to resolve.
When my car had an auto trans, I had zero issues. When I converted it to a manual trans (with no other driveline or suspension changes), I then had wheel hop. Hate it!!
So far all I have done is change to better shocks, which did help some.
I think there are a few other mods that might help, but I haven't tried any of them yet:
-VBP traction bar
-Tom's Differentials solid front diff mount
-removing the rubber diff crossmember bushings and mounting it solidly
-stiffer rear spring
When my car had an auto trans, I had zero issues. When I converted it to a manual trans (with no other driveline or suspension changes), I then had wheel hop. Hate it!!
So far all I have done is change to better shocks, which did help some.
I think there are a few other mods that might help, but I haven't tried any of them yet:
-VBP traction bar
-Tom's Differentials solid front diff mount
-removing the rubber diff crossmember bushings and mounting it solidly
-stiffer rear spring
#3
Le Mans Master
To start with, is the car stock (more or less) or a heavily modified engine?
If stock, start with the rear end front bracket. Be sure both cross bolts are tight, the holes are not wallowed out, and the front cushions and bolt are in good condition, and tight.
After that, check the crossmember the rear attaches to above. The two sombrero cups on each end could be worn out. Be sure the bolts are tight, although the car sits on it and keeps it tight from weight.
If stock, start with the rear end front bracket. Be sure both cross bolts are tight, the holes are not wallowed out, and the front cushions and bolt are in good condition, and tight.
After that, check the crossmember the rear attaches to above. The two sombrero cups on each end could be worn out. Be sure the bolts are tight, although the car sits on it and keeps it tight from weight.
#4
On my 79 I had a bad wheel hop problem. I replaced the two large bushings that are used to mount the differential cross member to the frame add the round reinforcements the VB&P sell and no more wheel hop. My car is also a manual.
#5
Le Mans Master
Do you have more info on what you used from VB&P, as also have wheel hop problems with my 80 C3 manual trans.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
All the rear bushings are in good shape. I did not add the round reinforcements that VB&P sells. I guess that will be next on my list.
I thought about the traction bar but I am not convinced that it will work. Does anyone have this on their car?
#7
Melting Slicks
#8
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2013
Location: Lantana Florida
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Heavily modified engine (At least to me it is). Approx. 650hp at the crank. Just an educated guess right now I will be putting it on a dyno next week.
All the rear bushings are in good shape. I did not add the round reinforcements that VB&P sells. I guess that will be next on my list.
I thought about the traction bar but I am not convinced that it will work. Does anyone have this on their car?
All the rear bushings are in good shape. I did not add the round reinforcements that VB&P sells. I guess that will be next on my list.
I thought about the traction bar but I am not convinced that it will work. Does anyone have this on their car?
#10
With the spring set softer the wheel hop was gone. I later added smart struts and traction was increased and still no wheel hop.
Not sure on HP right now but have a 355 with AFR heads and Comp 276 HR cam. Old set up was 335 hp at wheels and this has a bit more power.
#11
Le Mans Master
At first everything was stock with poly bushings but I did not replace the large cross member bushings and I had extreme wheel hop. I then changed to a composite duel mount spring. This helped if I set the spring really stiff but was a harsh ride. I then replaced the cross member bushings and added the reinforcement plates. http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts.htm...category_id=48
With the spring set softer the wheel hop was gone. I later added smart struts and traction was increased and still no wheel hop.
Not sure on HP right now but have a 355 with AFR heads and Comp 276 HR cam. Old set up was 335 hp at wheels and this has a bit more power.
With the spring set softer the wheel hop was gone. I later added smart struts and traction was increased and still no wheel hop.
Not sure on HP right now but have a 355 with AFR heads and Comp 276 HR cam. Old set up was 335 hp at wheels and this has a bit more power.
thanks
#12
Drifting
Dragvet.com camber kit for Drag Racing
VB&P or Vansteel Composite rear spring or locate a Big block rear spring that has the extra leaf. I just sold one (sorry)
My set up includes a 625 lb. rear composite spring that VB&P custom made for me. They are great folks to work with.
I just pulled my 640 h.p. 427 and am now getting ready to drop in 850 h.p. 582. I'm sure my rear end can handle the power as long as I stay on drag radials and don't use the transbrake much.
Good luck,
Joe
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
#14
Drifting
#16
Race Director
Just a shock and tire change eliminated mine, also make sure you have a good patch of road any little bump or hole and you could get wheel hop
#17
Le Mans Master
I ran up to 600 hp with 3.70 and 3.08 rears and 14 inch wide slicks. In the back, the front trailing arms were solid adjusters and no rubber bushings. The diff crossmember was anchored with the solid aluminum disks that you haven't installed. Camber rods were replaced with Heim joints on both ends. The front diff nose bracket had aluminum spacers instead of a rubber bushing set.
Wheel hop is due to axle wrap up, or spring wrap up, depending on who you talk to and what they call it. That can happen in a leaf spring live axle car because the spring actually bends backwards, and why they had traction bars on the leaf springs.
In a Corvette, that can't happen. So rubber bushings have to be deflecting to allow things to move. Get rid of your rubber and you will be rid of the wheel hop.
It could also be possible if you have a really tall tire with weak sidewalls.
I suspect you do not have wheel hop but rather the tail of the transmission is jumping around. Changing transmissions and nothing else should not cause wheel hop.
Wheel hop is due to axle wrap up, or spring wrap up, depending on who you talk to and what they call it. That can happen in a leaf spring live axle car because the spring actually bends backwards, and why they had traction bars on the leaf springs.
In a Corvette, that can't happen. So rubber bushings have to be deflecting to allow things to move. Get rid of your rubber and you will be rid of the wheel hop.
It could also be possible if you have a really tall tire with weak sidewalls.
I also have issues with wheel hop that I would like to resolve.
When my car had an auto trans, I had zero issues. When I converted it to a manual trans (with no other driveline or suspension changes), I then had wheel hop. Hate it!!
So far all I have done is change to better shocks, which did help some.
I think there are a few other mods that might help, but I haven't tried any of them yet:
-VBP traction bar
-Tom's Differentials solid front diff mount
-removing the rubber diff crossmember bushings and mounting it solidly
-stiffer rear spring
When my car had an auto trans, I had zero issues. When I converted it to a manual trans (with no other driveline or suspension changes), I then had wheel hop. Hate it!!
So far all I have done is change to better shocks, which did help some.
I think there are a few other mods that might help, but I haven't tried any of them yet:
-VBP traction bar
-Tom's Differentials solid front diff mount
-removing the rubber diff crossmember bushings and mounting it solidly
-stiffer rear spring