AZDoug

I need to redo the brakes, as there are some issues.

I have sourced a new, correct master cylinder.

The front brakes do not work well at all now, the fluid in the front reservoir is rusty looking, rear reservoir is clean. Front brakes are not actuating well.

I am going to get all the calipers rebuilt.

Who is recommended for caliper rebuild, and sleeving if necessary?

Could the proportioning valve under the MC be causing a problem, or just most likely the MC if the fronts are not working?

Who sells just the steel brake lines from the MC to the proportioning valve? I don't want an entire brake line kit.

Thanks,
Doug

Gordonm

Most of the major vendors sell the lines and rebuilt calipers. Make sure you replace the rubber lines also that go to the calipers. They swell on the inside and don't allow the fluid to flow well. I use Zip for most of my parts but there are others also.

mrvette

Bought my '72 Vert in '95, I can tell you the history of the brakes but it all started right off the bat, the calipers were already stainless sleeved as well as all the ones you get from the chain parts houses....so no advantage there, so tear apart what you have, I BET they are already SS lined....then to go with O ring pistons not those damn lip seals like stock, take the backing springs out, and yes as above replace all the rubber hoses, blast the lines out with brake cleaner and air pressure....inspect best as possible, along about 6? years ago my main line to the rear did rust out and fail, so I used stock stuff off the parts house and coupled some lines together and did my own double flare to go into the m/cyl directly, I eliminated that silly brake warning switch on the front frame, and put a similar fitting as in the rear on there to split the front line R to L......check rotor runout by fingers on the pads with it all assembled, if lots of side/side wobble, turn the rotor on the hub to min side/side/movement....and if necessary shim with some aluminum foil in a common sense arrangement for some reason the right rear seems the worst on these.....

Stick with a standard diameter m/cylinder, I used DOT 5 fluid, so no more rust.....

second thing is that power booster.....MY opinion is to change it out for a hydroboost setup, as that is another thread....but the only way to really feel confident with the brakes, many reasons....but that's down the road a bit.....

AZDoug

I will check for stainless sleeves in the calipers.

Why take the springs out? I am sure they are there for a reason.

Who makes rebuild kits with o-ring seals? i am sure if I just go to NAPA, I would just get a regular lip seal kit.

I found the individual stainless brake lines. I already have new rubber hoses for all four. Decided to do the proportioning valve just because it is easy to get to,and with crap already in the lines, it wouldn't hurt to just change it.

Thanks,
Doug

Alan 71

Hi AZ,
The larger vendors all stock and sell the o-ring seal kits… ZIP, Corvette Central, Paragon, etc.
I'd think many of those parts come from Lone Star Caliper Company.
Regards,
Alan

Brooklinite

The springs serve a purpose with the original lip-seal pistons. With the o-rings they fit much tighter in the bore and the springs won't do anything.