mfpvette80

I posted previously about rotating the rag joint to fix this issue. Upon further inspection the rag joint assembly matches the diagram in the AIM for my 1980. The mark on the steering shaft is at 3 o'clock, and I'm guessing it should be at 12. My turn signal cancelling cam doesn't work under these conditions.

So if the rag joint is correct, is there any other way to get the shaft turned 90 degrees? Can the Pittman arm be dropped and repositioned?

MelWff

In your previous post you stated this happened because you R&R'ed the steering column. If you center the box steering shaft are the wheels straight?

hugie82

Isn't the shaft coming off the box splined? I thought you could clock that shaft in any position. Either that or you will spinning tierod sleeves to straighten the wheel.

stumpshot

I installed mine 180 out on the 75. Had to pull the column and rotate it 180. Only fix I know is rotating the steering column.

Jim Shea

First of all I assume that you have a 1980 Corvette. There were minor differences through the years.

There are a couple ways to misassemble steering system parts such that the steering wheel was 180 degrees out (upside down) but not 90 degrees.

For the most part unless you have a damaged or bent frame or other steering component, I would think your problem is in the tie rods. Take a look at your left and right tie rods. Measure the length of each and compare. They should be pretty close to the same length. If they are different lengths, I would take your Vette to a competent alignment shop.

If you have further interest in steering system centering, here is a link to a paper on the subject.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...v28jl20091.pdf

BTW, the steering gear input shaft has a flat machined at 12 o'clock with the gear on center. That flat was introduced around 1969. It only allows the flexible coupling to be assembled to the steering gear in put shaft in one position.

Jim

doorgunner

Jim Shea........thanks for taking the time to reply.......I will use the info to check the steering on my project car!

Haggisbash

Mine was exactly the same as yours when I got the car. You need to meet these conditions -
Wheels pointing straight ahead.
Flat on input shaft to steering box should be at 12 o'clock.
Pitman arm should be pointing straight ahead.
Under the horn button if you look at the end of the steering shaft there is a chisel mark on it, this should be at 12 o'clock. Unless all of these conditions are met your indicators wont index properly and the steering feel will be wrong at straight ahead position.

mfpvette80

My condition is exactly as Haggisbash described it. The index mark on the steering shaft as you sit behind the wheel is at 3 o'clock with the wheels straight. The rag joint appears correct according to the AIM. The flat on the splined steering shaft is 90 degrees off from the flat on the steering box shaft, again, as shown in the AIM. Pittman arm appears to point straight forward. So what can you do to correct the issue? I'll check the tie rod ends, and that seems to be the only remedy.

MikeDs73

Just download and read Jim's Steering Wheel Centering Procedure. It's easy to follow. I just recentered mine without issue.

mfpvette80

I read Jim's paper and found the problem. The flex joint is off 90 degrees on the steering box shaft. Didn't think it could mount that way, but there it is. The bolt runs parallel to the flat, and that's the problem. Both flats on the steering box shaft and the steering column shaft need to be at 12 o'clock, and mine are a quarter turn off. Both tie rod ends have 1/2" of exposed threads.

So here's the big question: Can the steering column be dismounted and pulled back an inch and a half to rotate the joint into the correct alignment? There are two fasteners on the fire wall, and two under the dash. Not hard to get to. Will there be enough slack in the wiring to the harmonica connector to accommodate the movement? Might be a quick fix, however, nothing on this car seems to be.

thegazman

Seems to me like it would be easier to take the three bolts out of the steering box.

MikeDs73

I think yes you'll have enough slack to do that but someone else may know better from experience. I think it's easier than dropping the steering box but thats my opinion.

Haggisbash

In my case there was enough slack in the wiring to pull the column back but I opted to move the steering box instead because it was easier than fiddling with the bolts under the dash and on the firewall for the column. You only need to undo the bolts holding the steering box to the chassis you don't have to drop the pitman arm or steering linkage.

mfpvette80

I tried the steering box first with no luck. About 3/4" was all the room it would give at the flex joint. I do have headers but the interference was between the frame and the box. Looks like I have no choice but to drop the column. It really doesn't look more difficult than loosening the steering box. All fasteners seem accessible. Wasn't sure about the wiring though. The harmonica connector is tough to get at.

Jim Shea

I am sure that there will be enough slack in the two vehicle wiring harnesses to allow you to pull the steering column back an inch or two.
The "harmonica" connector snaps into a small bracket that is welded to the steering column jacket. You should be able to disconnect it from the bracket allowing even more slack in the harness system.

FYI, connections between the flex coupling assembly and the steering column and/or the steering gear input shaft were designed with considerable overlap because steering is such a critical safety system. We tried to insure that under all reasonable misassembly, missing or loose fasteners, etc the steering system would provide ample warning to the driver that something was critically wrong before losing all steering ability.

For the benefit of safety, servicing is a b*tch.
Sorry,
Jim

mfpvette80

I dismounted the column and pulled it back with no issue. Slid the coupling off the steering box shaft and rotated the wheel to where it needed to be. Much easier than dropping the steering box, even with a clutch pedal in the way. Thanks all.