gsixl

I am posting this just to help someone else wanting cutouts. I am not saying this is the only way to do it but it is one way to do it. Cost me about 20 bucks. Please no negative comments on my welding. I am old and don't see that well anymore plus I had to weld them on while on the car on my back. They don't leak and they do the job on my low car. They don't hang any lower then cross member. I bought a couple of turn downs at the parts store ovaled the end for clearance. Made the flange and plate out of 1/4 inch plate. I cut out the whole first as I used a jig saw with steel blade. I welded stainless bolts to flange. Please use standard nuts on the stainless bolts. Ask me why sometime.

blue427

I wouldn't worry too much about how the welds look as long as they do what you want them to do.I've been welding for over 45 years and had to put down a funky weld or two due to circumstances.They look like 6010 or 6011 arc rod welds.My only question is,are you going to put extensions on them when you open them up? I would think that much heat under a fiberglass car is looking for trouble. Maybe an extension right before the rear tires with a turn down.We use to call them dumpers a long,long time ago,but they would exit to outside the car.

73C34me

it looks like you drag race a bit. i would like to know more about your combo & any improvements from the cut outs.

gsixl

Lincoln flux core welder was used not sure what brand of wire. No way to get them past the crossmember that I can see. I have opened the a few times and don't seem to have a problem with the heat.

gsixl

I have not been back to the track to test them. Mainly just one of those things I always wanted.

Mod75

I like it, haven't had cutouts since, well a long time ago on a 56 ragtop.

Looks like a good installation. My biggest problem was the bolts rusting up, wish i knew about the heat wrap 50 years ago.

For the clearance issue in the first pic it looks fine to me.

gsixl

The stainless bolts make removal quick and easy. Made the mistake first time putting stainless nuts on the stainless bolts. They seized up on one bolt like I had welded it. Finally just broke off. I now just have regular zinc coated nuts on the stainless bolts and they come off easily.

MotorHead

I have exhaust turndowns when I go to open exhaust. Simple exhaust tubing bent on an angle cut to be parallel to the ground, most speed shops sell them for cheap. I use bolts but originally wanted to use wing nuts with a lock washer but there was no room.

gsixl

Ok a peek under the hood. These two hands did all of this. I built this on a budget starting with a $4500 car on ebay and now have around 10k in the car. It is a 350 .40 over turbo 350 2600 stall 4.11 rear. Aluminum heads 64cc and aluminum water pump, air gap dual plane intake, domed pistons, H beam rods, comp cam, quite gear drive c5 master cylinder and aluminum radiator. Stripped everything out of the front, impact bar, air tank, etc. Stripped all hvac radio and windshield wipers. Weighs in a touch over 3000. Its a street rod not a daily driver. Also autocross it and run it down the drag strip. And yes it will draw attention before it is seen. Running bullet glass packs after the crossmember with custom bent tailpipes. I get "man that thing sounds healthy" everywhere I go.