joebobo32

Hi. I have been on here for a while, because my 69 Camaro ended up having an L79 motor from a 68 vette in it. I posted about it here and in the orphan forum and gave the info to NRCS, but no responses. That led to a search for a C3 with no motor. I ended up buying brammo's since he found another project. He posted about it here - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-70-coupe.html

I just got the car on Sunday. I am going with a light, loosely period correct restore. My goal is to get the car running as soon as possible.

It seems the suspension was rebuilt in the mid 90s and the engine seems to have been pulled shortly thereafter (last registration sticker = 96 and no coins beyond '94 were vacuumed up).

The car seems fairly complete. From the short time I have had to look at it, the frame is good. No visible issues with the bird cage at first blush. Suspension looks good. Paint is decent 20 footer. Lots of chips but probably had some paint in the 90s. The hood is raised.

More to the point, I am having the 68 L79 rebuilt to put in this 70 vette. I need to select a cam and pistons, and I am looking for suggestions that will take into account what I have.

I plan on using the 68 2-bolt main block. I will stroke it to a 350. I will use the rebuilt Qjet off my 69 Camaro (7029202 DH; a 350 carb), the L79 cast iron intake (3919803), the camel hump heads (3917291). I have the stock exhaust manifolds from the L79, and the car came with some Hooker Headers dated 1995. The collectors are already there with the 70 vette, so going with the headers may be easier in the end; less exhaust work.

The rear end is a CAV, which means 3.08 gears. The transmission is a muncie, not sure yet if a m20 or m21, it is dated prior to the A, B, C suffix.

Again, the goal is to get the car going with what I have as quickly as possible while improving on the motor. The heads and intake will certainly hold me back, and the 3.08 gears aren't going to be too exciting, but I really want to just use what I have, and improve on it to the extent possible. The gears make me think more low end torque would be good. I will not race or go to the drag strip.

I got in deep on my 69 Camaro putting in a zz383, headers that needed modification, etc. It has sat for a long time, and I do not want to make that mistake again. The Camaro may have a great set up now, but I am not sure it makes up for the amount of down time. I just want to get the vette back on the road.

With that detail, and based on what I have read up, people often suggest the following comp cams for a 350 rebuild: XE262, 268, 270. I am not going to deck the block so as to keep the numbers. It will be .30 over. I should stay below 11:1, and I probably should not use domed pistons, but please let me know your thoughts on what you would do with the motor rebuild.

This is my first foray into vettes. I will say my wife looked at the vette and she actually had positive comments. When it comes the the Camaro, she keeps asking me to sell it.

My goal is to start this as a build thread as a buddy and I put in the engine and get the car running. When we were looking at the car yesterday and coming up with a plan we were wondering if we should pull the radiator and use the picker to put the engine and tranny in together or try a different approach. With that long nose do you all still approach it head on? Is it necessary to pull the radiator?

Thanks in advance. I will start an album soon, but the link I provided takes you to a bunch of pics. I have also seen prior suggestions to neophytes to get the AIM, chassis manual, etc. That is on the list. For now, I am going to drain the tank, get a battery and try to start seeing what wiring nightmares are ahead. The engine will be rebuilt in a few weeks. I will check out the brakes soon, and hopefully everything is in order.

Thanks.

joebobo32

I thought I would cut this down to get some feedback. First, the cam and pistons. What cam and pistons would you recommend with the following set up:

I plan on using the 68 2-bolt main block. I will stroke it to a 350. I will use the rebuilt Qjet off my 69 Camaro (7029202 DH; a 350 carb), the L79 cast iron intake (3919803), the camel hump heads (3917291). I have the stock exhaust manifolds from the L79, and the car came with some Hooker Headers dated 1995. The collectors are already there with the 70 vette, so going with the headers may be easier in the end; less exhaust work. The rear end is a CAV, which means 3.08 gears. The transmission is a muncie, not sure yet if a m20 or m21.

Second, for the engine install, would you remove the radiator to try to install engine and transmission at same time or come from side with just the motor and bring the transmission underneath. I saw this, and it does not seem anyone tried to install with the transmission mounted to the engine. See https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-a-motor.html

Thanks.

70LQ4

Joe , I always remove and install Corvette Motors by themselves. Then install the Transmission separately. Less chance of screwing something up , and don't have to remove the hood or Radiator assembly.

On the Motor since you are stroking it , go all the way and make a 383 out of it . Crank is about the same price , and You can use 350 pistons with factory 400 Rods . Go small on the Cam , Comp Cams 252 worked great in the one I built years ago. Spend Your Money on the best set of Heads that You can afford , can't go wrong with AFR 195s . This combo will work with the 3.08s and will pull hard from off idle to 4500 rpm. Don't let anyone tell You that the factory short Rods won't hold up , the 383 that I built years ago lasted Me 175,000 miles and still ran fine when I sold it, and by the way the Car I had it in only had 2.87 gears. Stan.

DUB

I myself... remove the hood...which is no big deal...and I install the engine and transmission both connected together. That way if the car is a manual...the clutch and all can be easily installed and not damaging the clutch disc and or pilot bushing. I use an engine tilter. I DO NOT use a 'cherry picker'...I have a chain fall hoist and can use it....which may change your attack plan.

Radiator can stay.

DUB

68post

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/wisecopistons.html

Forged reverse dome pistons at a great price.
I think their calculated compression may be high for a -15cc with a 64cc head ( @ 9.6-1 ) (355ci ) and that should be confirmed because it could easily be too high for your application. $380

You should go to a 383 instead , if possible, for nearly the same price. Just add block clearancing to the machining invoice, and buy Scat Procomp rods for $310 . I know that's always brought up but it's about the torque increase and drivability!

You will have to keep compression down around approx. 9.3 to 9.1 with a 355 or 383 ,your heads , and good/semi-good quench & with a small cam.

joebobo32

@ Stan and 68Post - These are helpful comments. I was thinking about going to 383 and did a few searches on it here. Seems wesmigletz has done it with a 327. Also, there was a good discussion here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...o-a-383-a.html. DZAUTO provided extra detail on what would need to be done with my large journal 327 block. After your comments I have gone back to the machine shop to see what effect stroking all the way to 383 would have on price of rebuild. With saving costs a goal, it will all come down to costs.

@ Dub and Stan - Thanks for tips on install. Radiator assembly will stay in. I do not have an engine tilter or ready access to one, so we may just go engine separate from transmission and use the cherry picker.

If I stick with 350 the machine shop is proposing the following - Comp Cams xm262h = 218/224@.050" .462/.477" -112 lobe sep. This is almost the xe262 cam, but the marine version. The only difference is xe262 is 110 lobe sep instead of 112, and the marine cam has more lift on exhaust. He thinks even these small differences give me a broader power curve over the xe262. Any other thoughts on this?

My next project is to open up the muncie and see how it looks. I will then siphon the old gas, and throw in a battery to see what electrical issue I can spot.

joebobo32

Machine shop explained increased costs to stroke to a 383. They are too high for me considering the block is non-matching, so I am sticking with a relatively stock 350 build using period correct parts. If anyone has a thought on the marine cam, let me know. I spoke to Comp, and they think the proposal makes sense. Thanks.

68post

I was thinking the block was a medium journal and not a small journal,( '69 first year - not '68, my mistake). I don't blame you it would be a hassle, a 355 from 327 will still be a nice 28ci upgrade.

Gale Banks 80'

Assuming that Your car was an original 4 speed and there for has a removable Cross Member I'm in the camp of removing the Hood and dropping the Engine and Trans in all in one assembly. If Your car does not have a removable cross member I would quickly revert to doing the Engine Trans separately.

joebobo32

Here are some shots of the car - https://picasaweb.google.com/1071571...eat=directlink

Here is a video of the car on the dyno - https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...88&pnref=story

Just posted over here (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1589210511) to see if anyone would eyeball the project and provide thoughts. Please let me know. Thanks.