Fuel pump location
#1
Fuel pump location
I know this has been addressed a thousand times, but after searching for several days.... I give up.
I have an 82 cross fire corvette and would like to know where the fuel pump is?
Is it in the tank and it has to be removed? Or can it be removed/checked through the gas cap?
I have an 82 cross fire corvette and would like to know where the fuel pump is?
Is it in the tank and it has to be removed? Or can it be removed/checked through the gas cap?
#2
#4
this is one of several sites for testing fuel pressure on a throttle body system
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/..._pressure.html
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/..._pressure.html
#5
I followed the link above and it wasn't very specific to an 82 vette. Can someone provide more details on where to connect a fuel pressure gauge? I assume it's somewhere before the fuel injector.
The fuel filter is against the passenger side behind the tire and hard to get to, so it doesn't look like the place to try.
Also, I have a question about how to remove the fuel pump. The link above was great but didn't address how to take it out. I'm attaching a picture of the gas cap, with the lid removed and gasket. Do I remove all of those nuts in a circle?
The fuel filter is against the passenger side behind the tire and hard to get to, so it doesn't look like the place to try.
Also, I have a question about how to remove the fuel pump. The link above was great but didn't address how to take it out. I'm attaching a picture of the gas cap, with the lid removed and gasket. Do I remove all of those nuts in a circle?
#7
Burning Brakes
The '82 was the C3's first model with an electric fuel pump. There are reams of good history about it if you do a search on this forum - which your admission of not knowing it was in the tank via the filler hole is a giveaway - they all (100%) talk about it on the topic. My original pump was 32 years old and still going strong, but they will fail, so for the relative bargain cost I just replaced it as follows, but while the patient is open, I strongly suggest that you also replace the sending unit since it will be in your hand and then you can mark off that system as being good to go, hopefully for a long time - although, the Asian-made crap of today isn't very predictable. Btw, I don't regret replacing it with the original design pump vs. one with a fuel pressure uplift (1985 C4pump that you will read about) - too risky for me due to upstream seal integrity risks. You'll need a new tank/sender gasket, too.
1.) start the car and bleed off the fuel pressure by disconnecting (and leaving off) the negative battery cable. It will quickly stall. Have an extinguisher close by and spray water in the area to minimize any static electricity risk. Call me paranoid.
2.) Remove the filler cap assembly to access and remove the electrical connector and three hoses - they'll come off. A good chance to use a wire brush on the male/female terminals and add dielectric grease.
3.). Lift out the sender and while doing so, twist it 180 degrees clockwise - it comes right out. Ignore the complaints that it is difficult - I read to do this on this forum and it works and is out in well under 10 seconds from when you start pulling and twisting.
4.). Cover the fuel filler hole as securely as possible to minimize fumes and do your stuff. I used plastic and good duct tape which worked fine. The pumps are not very expensive and the black rubber fuel output hose is almost certain to be rotted, bleeding off PSI, and contributing to your drivability issue as many of us with this "new" (at the time) technology upgrade discovered as time went on. Make sure the pump comes with a good fuel-rated exit hose which connects the pump to the sender. Can't overstate this importance.
Good luck,
Dave
1.) start the car and bleed off the fuel pressure by disconnecting (and leaving off) the negative battery cable. It will quickly stall. Have an extinguisher close by and spray water in the area to minimize any static electricity risk. Call me paranoid.
2.) Remove the filler cap assembly to access and remove the electrical connector and three hoses - they'll come off. A good chance to use a wire brush on the male/female terminals and add dielectric grease.
3.). Lift out the sender and while doing so, twist it 180 degrees clockwise - it comes right out. Ignore the complaints that it is difficult - I read to do this on this forum and it works and is out in well under 10 seconds from when you start pulling and twisting.
4.). Cover the fuel filler hole as securely as possible to minimize fumes and do your stuff. I used plastic and good duct tape which worked fine. The pumps are not very expensive and the black rubber fuel output hose is almost certain to be rotted, bleeding off PSI, and contributing to your drivability issue as many of us with this "new" (at the time) technology upgrade discovered as time went on. Make sure the pump comes with a good fuel-rated exit hose which connects the pump to the sender. Can't overstate this importance.
Good luck,
Dave
#8
Burning Brakes
The '82 was the C3's first model with an electric fuel pump. There are reams of good history about it if you do a search on this forum - which your admission of not knowing it was in the tank via the filler hole is a giveaway - they all (100%) talk about it on the topic. My original pump was 32 years old and still going strong, but they will fail, so for the relative bargain cost I just replaced it as follows, but while the patient is open, I strongly suggest that you also replace the sending unit since it will be in your hand and then you can mark off that system as being good to go, hopefully for a long time - although, the Asian-made crap of today isn't very predictable. Btw, I don't regret replacing it with the original design pump vs. one with a fuel pressure uplift (1985 C4pump that you will read about) - too risky for me due to upstream seal integrity risks. You'll need a new tank/sender gasket, too. 1.) start the car and bleed off the fuel pressure by disconnecting (and leaving off) the negative battery cable. It will quickly stall. Have an extinguisher close by and spray water in the area to minimize any static electricity risk. Call me paranoid. 2.) Remove the filler cap assembly to access and remove the electrical connector and three hoses - they'll come off. A good chance to use a wire brush on the male/female terminals and add dielectric grease. 3.). Lift out the sender and while doing so, twist it 180 degrees clockwise - it comes right out. Ignore the complaints that it is difficult - I read to do this on this forum and it works and is out in well under 10 seconds from when you start pulling and twisting. 4.). Cover the fuel filler hole as securely as possible to minimize fumes and do your stuff. I used plastic and good duct tape which worked fine. The pumps are not very expensive and the black rubber fuel output hose is almost certain to be rotted, bleeding off PSI, and contributing to your drivability issue as many of us with this "new" (at the time) technology upgrade discovered as time went on. Make sure the pump comes with a good fuel-rated exit hose which connects the pump to the sender. Can't overstate this importance. Good luck, Dave
#9
Racer
I followed the link above and it wasn't very specific to an 82 vette. Can someone provide more details on where to connect a fuel pressure gauge? I assume it's somewhere before the fuel injector.
The fuel filter is against the passenger side behind the tire and hard to get to, so it doesn't look like the place to try.
Also, I have a question about how to remove the fuel pump. The link above was great but didn't address how to take it out. I'm attaching a picture of the gas cap, with the lid removed and gasket. Do I remove all of those nuts in a circle?
The fuel filter is against the passenger side behind the tire and hard to get to, so it doesn't look like the place to try.
Also, I have a question about how to remove the fuel pump. The link above was great but didn't address how to take it out. I'm attaching a picture of the gas cap, with the lid removed and gasket. Do I remove all of those nuts in a circle?
#10
Thanks Lakeside49 (aka Dave) for the info!
As a further thought... can I use one of those lines in the picture to test fuel pressure? If so, which one, left or right?
What I want to do is check the fuel pressure before I replace a pump, in case it's not the fuel pump.
As a further thought... can I use one of those lines in the picture to test fuel pressure? If so, which one, left or right?
What I want to do is check the fuel pressure before I replace a pump, in case it's not the fuel pump.
#11
Burning Brakes
Plan on replacing it, though. Unless you're just flipping it or biding time, it will save you, probably the number one most avoidable '82 breakdown/low performance risk factors on the car. For peace of mind if anything.
Dave
Last edited by Lakeside49; 10-22-2014 at 05:56 PM.
#12
Can someone confirm if the line I'm pointing to in this picture is where I should check the fuel pressure?
It looks like I should be able to remove the nut on the fuel line before the fuel injector and insert a T valve. Does that sound right?