Remove oil pan
11-09-2014, 12:44 PM
#3
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2013
Location: Boca Raton Florida
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Not that I have been able to do…..drop the steering center link….do not have to remove it….if you have an automatic probably the torque convertor cover and possibly the starter to get at the bolts next to it.
11-09-2014, 12:57 PM
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Hydr lifter and roller coming in, so it will have new oil type also.
It is a 4 speed. I do have a problem with the steering center link, it there a trick here ??
11-09-2014, 01:40 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Center link must drop. Simply disconnect the idler arm from at the frame attaching point (couple bolts) and the linkage will drop down enough to easily remove the pan.
11-09-2014, 01:45 PM
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
11-09-2014, 02:32 PM
#7
Safety Car
11-09-2014, 02:44 PM
#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I recently did the pan gasket on my 69 4 speed big block. Two bolts on the idler arm and that was it. Left the starter on. There was plenty of room to remove the pan and get in there with a scraper to clean up the gasket surface. You might want to check the rear seal while you have it apart...
A one pc. Fel Pro pan gasket will come in the car.
11-09-2014, 05:41 PM
#9
Safety Car
11-09-2014, 06:06 PM
#10
Safety Car
I would have to say if I was pulling a pan and had cam& lifters in mind, I would pull the engine at that point. You're 85% of the way there anyway. Bell housing bolts, exhaust pipe and engine mounts are all that's left. On the engine stand you can clean, paint, re gasket everything, check everything and most importantly, while standing in the garage with a beverage.
11-09-2014, 09:13 PM
#11
Advanced
I would have to say if I was pulling a pan and had cam& lifters in mind, I would pull the engine at that point. You're 85% of the way there anyway. Bell housing bolts, exhaust pipe and engine mounts are all that's left. On the engine stand you can clean, paint, re gasket everything, check everything and most importantly, while standing in the garage with a beverage.
11-09-2014, 09:30 PM
#12
Safety Car
I would have to say if I was pulling a pan and had cam& lifters in mind, I would pull the engine at that point. You're 85% of the way there anyway. Bell housing bolts, exhaust pipe and engine mounts are all that's left. On the engine stand you can clean, paint, re gasket everything, check everything and most importantly, while standing in the garage with a beverage.
11-10-2014, 05:36 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
I would have to say if I was pulling a pan and had cam& lifters in mind, I would pull the engine at that point. You're 85% of the way there anyway. Bell housing bolts, exhaust pipe and engine mounts are all that's left. On the engine stand you can clean, paint, re gasket everything, check everything and most importantly, while standing in the garage with a beverage.
He has a garage full of Corvette motors
John, remember that if you replace the rear main seal then the thrust bearing (rear main) must be aligned when you tighten the rear main. With the bolts a little more than finger tight push the crank forward, then rearward before tightening the main.
/Karsten
11-11-2014, 11:49 AM
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Problem is, John probably already has another engine on the stand
He has a garage full of Corvette motors
John, remember that if you replace the rear main seal then the thrust bearing (rear main) must be aligned when you tighten the rear main. With the bolts a little more than finger tight push the crank forward, then rearward before tightening the main.
/Karsten
He has a garage full of Corvette motors
John, remember that if you replace the rear main seal then the thrust bearing (rear main) must be aligned when you tighten the rear main. With the bolts a little more than finger tight push the crank forward, then rearward before tightening the main.
/Karsten
I don't think I will change it, it is not leaking.
11-18-2014, 08:27 PM
#15
1st Gear
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: Conway SC
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I'm not sure is this is the right place to ask this, or if it's been covered in another thread but here it goes... My 1972 Stingray has a broken bell housing, it actually has a missing chunk from when the previous owner bottomed it out. My question is, can you replace the bell housing by dropping the trans (4 speed) or do you have to pull the engine? I'm hoping it can be done from just removing the trans cause I'm planning on replacing the shifter and linkage at the same time. Thanks, in advance!
11-21-2014, 07:57 PM
#17
Racer
Member Since: Aug 2012
Location: Glendon Alberta
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One piece felpro
I just installed one in my engine the other day ( on a stand). WOW, so awesome compared to the old 4 piece cork p.o.s. Wish I had another pan to put one in...