C3 Steering problem
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
C3 Steering problem
I've never owned a Corvette before so I'm not sure if this is a problem or it's just the way they drive. When I turn the wheel on my 70 and let go it doesn't return to going straight like in most cars. It stays in the same location where I left it as I entered the turn. This happens when turning in both directions. I've lubricated the steering box to see if that helps but I'm not seeing any improvement. Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Al
Thanks,
Al
#2
have the front end alignment checked in particular the caster would effect wheel return
#3
Racer
It sounds like someone has adjusted the steering box whilst it was on the car. While sometimes it can work, most of the time you will mess up the gear backlash and lose your return to center.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
That may be the case I don't know. The only item I had replaced was the rag joint. After reading the posts thus far maybe I should begin with a front-end alignment and then proceed to having the steering box rebuilt if that doesn't fix it?
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#7
Burning Brakes
If the two ball joints are directly one above the other, the car will turn very easily but the wheel have no impetus to return to the direction the car is traveling. The car will also feel 'darty' when driving on the road, and will tend to follow any ruts. The further back the upper ball joint is behind the front (when looking straight down), the more stable the car will be at speed, and the less it will want to turn. (Think of a bicycle - the further in front of the handle bars, the more difficult to turn, while if it were directly under the handlebars, the easier to turn.
As the frames on C3's age, the amount of caster available in a front end adjustment decreases to the point where it may be 1 degree or less. Stock is approx. 3 degrees +/-, and many recommend up to 5 degrees for the street. There are various ways to correct this problem and get the caster you need. I chose to purchase new upper A-arms with a slightly different (more rearward) location of the ball-joint, restoring all of the adjustment lost ad your frame ages.
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Caster is the measurement of how far the lower ball joint is in front of the upper ball joint. It is measured in degrees.
If the two ball joints are directly one above the other, the car will turn very easily but the wheel have no impetus to return to the direction the car is traveling. The car will also feel 'darty' when driving on the road, and will tend to follow any ruts. The further back the upper ball joint is behind the front (when looking straight down), the more stable the car will be at speed, and the less it will want to turn. (Think of a bicycle - the further in front of the handle bars, the more difficult to turn, while if it were directly under the handlebars, the easier to turn.
As the frames on C3's age, the amount of caster available in a front end adjustment decreases to the point where it may be 1 degree or less. Stock is approx. 3 degrees +/-, and many recommend up to 5 degrees for the street. There are various ways to correct this problem and get the caster you need. I chose to purchase new upper A-arms with a slightly different (more rearward) location of the ball-joint, restoring all of the adjustment lost ad your frame ages.
If the two ball joints are directly one above the other, the car will turn very easily but the wheel have no impetus to return to the direction the car is traveling. The car will also feel 'darty' when driving on the road, and will tend to follow any ruts. The further back the upper ball joint is behind the front (when looking straight down), the more stable the car will be at speed, and the less it will want to turn. (Think of a bicycle - the further in front of the handle bars, the more difficult to turn, while if it were directly under the handlebars, the easier to turn.
As the frames on C3's age, the amount of caster available in a front end adjustment decreases to the point where it may be 1 degree or less. Stock is approx. 3 degrees +/-, and many recommend up to 5 degrees for the street. There are various ways to correct this problem and get the caster you need. I chose to purchase new upper A-arms with a slightly different (more rearward) location of the ball-joint, restoring all of the adjustment lost ad your frame ages.
Last edited by ONeill202; 11-10-2014 at 06:53 PM.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
I was thinking...I don't have any steering pull in either direction. I'm assuming that I can still have an alignment problem even without any pull, right?
Thanks,
Al
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St. Jude Donor '14
#11
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St. Jude Donor '14
Yes, I would have thought that also....sit back and just experience the wealth of knowledge available to you on this forum...Do a google search for corvette front suspension, these guys will be in the results.
Don't piece-meal the parts....replace all of the wearable items. Total rebuild.
Don't piece-meal the parts....replace all of the wearable items. Total rebuild.
#13
Drifting
The front end alignment procedure for C3 Corvettes is no different than any other car made in that era. Therefore any place with alignment equipment will be able to get you straightened out.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
When the guy at the shop drove the car he said it felt like a car that doesn't have power steering. This is my first corvette so I don't have anything to compare it to.
Does anyone know of a way to test if the power steering pump isn't working properly? I don't want to go through the expense of buying a part that I don't need. I was going to order the parts and do it myself.
Thanks to every one for their contributions... I really appreciate all the help.
Al
Last edited by ONeill202; 11-11-2014 at 12:07 PM.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thank you. I had the front end alignment done this morning and while it was off a bit on all areas it still wasn't enough to correct the problem. The recommendation from the shop was to replace the power steering pump and if that doesn't do it to replace the power steering valve.
When the guy at the shop drove the car he said it felt like a car that doesn't have power steering. This is my first corvette so I don't have anything to compare it to.
Does anyone know of a way to test if the power steering pump isn't working properly? I don't want to go through the expense of buying a part that I don't need. I was going to order the parts and do it myself.
Thanks to every one for their contributions... I really appreciate all the help.
Al
When the guy at the shop drove the car he said it felt like a car that doesn't have power steering. This is my first corvette so I don't have anything to compare it to.
Does anyone know of a way to test if the power steering pump isn't working properly? I don't want to go through the expense of buying a part that I don't need. I was going to order the parts and do it myself.
Thanks to every one for their contributions... I really appreciate all the help.
Al
I am always concerned when a "shop guy" talks about bigger ticket items such as power steering components without even mentioning the idler arm, which is one of the highest wear items in the steering system (and the easiest/cheapest to purchase and replace).
#16
Instructor
I've never owned a Corvette before so I'm not sure if this is a problem or it's just the way they drive. When I turn the wheel on my 70 and let go it doesn't return to going straight like in most cars. It stays in the same location where I left it as I entered the turn. This happens when turning in both directions. I've lubricated the steering box to see if that helps but I'm not seeing any improvement. Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Al
Thanks,
Al
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sounds like you have a lash problem, someone has over tightened the lash.. The steering box is supposed to have play in the box at extreme left and right turns of the wheel. The worm gear is crowned on purpase just for that reason, so as it alows the steering to revert back to center via the caster in front end when coming out of a turn back to center.
I did, however, take it to another place that works on corvettes and the owner actually own a 70 vette. I had him take it for a drive and he agrees the problem seems to be in the steering box. I know for a fact the steering box is leaking, and I'm sure at some point it ran dry because I had to add a boatload of grease to fill it up.
So here's my next move...
I'm going to pull the steering box out something today and ship it to a guy that rebuilds these things (Gary, found him on digital corvette) and have him rebuild it. I'm sure it has never been touched so a good cleaning a rebuild might help.
More to come in the steering saga
Thanks, Al
Last edited by ONeill202; 11-15-2014 at 12:30 PM.
#18
Instructor
I agree. I will post the results of my alignment once I run back to the alignment shop and have them generate the paper work for me. I left the other day and they failed to provide me with the alignment numbers from the computer -- it's hard to find good customer service anymore.
I did, however, take it to another place that works on corvettes and the owner actually own a 70 vette. I had him take it for a drive and he agrees that the problem seems to be in the steering box. I know for a fact that the steering box is leaking and I'm sure at some point it ran dry because I had to add a boatload of grease to fill it up.
So here's my next move...
I'm going to pull the steering box out something today and ship it to a guy that rebuilds these things (Gary, found him on digital corvette) and have him rebuild it. I'm sure it has never been touched so a good cleaning a rebuild might help.
More to come in the steering saga
Thanks, Al
I did, however, take it to another place that works on corvettes and the owner actually own a 70 vette. I had him take it for a drive and he agrees that the problem seems to be in the steering box. I know for a fact that the steering box is leaking and I'm sure at some point it ran dry because I had to add a boatload of grease to fill it up.
So here's my next move...
I'm going to pull the steering box out something today and ship it to a guy that rebuilds these things (Gary, found him on digital corvette) and have him rebuild it. I'm sure it has never been touched so a good cleaning a rebuild might help.
More to come in the steering saga
Thanks, Al
Just because things leak doesnt mean its pooched! Leaks are sometimes a good thing, they help keep seals wet and not dry to crack. But yes a rebuild will be good as the brass bushings, esspecially the lower do wear out in the box..
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
Please post the results of your alignment, i.e. the camber, toe and caster for the L.F and R.F. If these appear to be within spec, we can then go on to steering problems.
I am always concerned when a "shop guy" talks about bigger ticket items such as power steering components without even mentioning the idler arm, which is one of the highest wear items in the steering system (and the easiest/cheapest to purchase and replace).
I am always concerned when a "shop guy" talks about bigger ticket items such as power steering components without even mentioning the idler arm, which is one of the highest wear items in the steering system (and the easiest/cheapest to purchase and replace).
I'm still not convinced the guy at the shop knew what he was doing. I told him I needed 2.75 or better of caster and he said he wasn't able to do more on the driver side. I gave him these numbers and he didn't even come close:
Last edited by ONeill202; 11-24-2014 at 07:05 PM.
#20
Team Owner
The only reason for the steering wheel NOT returning to center position is that the steering box mechanism is binding....probably because someone has attempted to 'tighten' it up. Note where the slot in the adjustment screw is located, break the locknut loose, and turn the adjustment screw about 1/8 turn CCW; then lock the locknut back down (while retaining the position of the screw).
Test drive the car again to see if there is more "freedom" in the wheel. In any event, you shouldn't back that adjustment off more than 1/4 turn, unless everything else in the system is in good shape and someone who knows about the steering box is involved. But, that test will help you understand if the box has been 'tightened' or not. Then, you and whoever you choose to assist you, can decide the next course of action.
P.S. Lots of folks will come out of the woodwork to tell you that the stock C3 system is "flawed" and that you NEED to replace it with something else. I've driven C3's from shortly after they were put on the road until today, and there is NOTHING wrong with the basic design of the C3 steering or power steering system if it is in good condition....UNLESS you are trying to roadrace your car and be competitive with better vehicles. It will be a lot less expensive and easier to repair the system you have, than to re-engineer the steering system in your car.
Test drive the car again to see if there is more "freedom" in the wheel. In any event, you shouldn't back that adjustment off more than 1/4 turn, unless everything else in the system is in good shape and someone who knows about the steering box is involved. But, that test will help you understand if the box has been 'tightened' or not. Then, you and whoever you choose to assist you, can decide the next course of action.
P.S. Lots of folks will come out of the woodwork to tell you that the stock C3 system is "flawed" and that you NEED to replace it with something else. I've driven C3's from shortly after they were put on the road until today, and there is NOTHING wrong with the basic design of the C3 steering or power steering system if it is in good condition....UNLESS you are trying to roadrace your car and be competitive with better vehicles. It will be a lot less expensive and easier to repair the system you have, than to re-engineer the steering system in your car.