hwcoop

Installed a 454 in my 73 and went with a Tach drive HEI distributor and a Quick Fuel carb with electric choke

I have the Distributor wired to the IGN teminal on the fuse box, can i run the Choke to the same connection?
I am currently running the sound system off the ACC position

not sure what current the distributor & choke would draw

Thanks,
Howard

caryb78

[QUOTE=hwcoop;1588608930]Installed a 454 in my 73 and went with a Tach drive HEI distributor and a Quick Fuel carb with electric choke

I have the Distributor wired to the IGN teminal on the fuse box, can i run the Choke to the same connection?
I am currently running the sound system off the ACC position

not sure what current the distributor & choke would draw

Thanks,
Howard[/QU

If you are concerned I wired mine into the wiper motor wiring, easy to get to and works great.

DUB

Howard,
When GM went to suing the HEi...the old fabric insulated single filament wire that was used for the coil went to a large 12 gauge wire. AND this wire is actually coming right off the ignition switch and NOT going through the fuse panel....to be technical....if my memory serves me correctly......SO...when whenever you attach anything to the inner ports ion your fuse panel...these terminals are already being protected by the fuse beside it.....depending on if it is BAT, IGN or ACC.

So...technically this large 12 gauge wire from your ignition switch is already routed to the firewall bulkhead connector....and GM then installed the fabric insulated wire in the connector and took it to the distributor and starter.....so....what I have done is remove the connector at the firewall and pull out the terminal and install a new one with the correct wire.....BUT...I am picky about stuff like this and have the correct terminals and you can do it as you see fit.

AS for the choke power source...I would see how many amps it draws and make sure that it is on a protected circuit....like what was previously mentioned. I prefer to run a fresh circuit....but once again...that is just me.

DUB

doorgunner

Good advice above about using a separate new wire to the new HEI....and also a separate new wire to the electric choke (if you connect the E-choke to the same HEI supply wire, the HEI will not get the full power that it is design to receive).

Being a rookie, I learned that the cloth-wrapped original wire from the firewall to the distributor is a resistor-type wire, and should be replaced with a new/heavier multi-strand wire that will supply full voltage and amps to the HEI for max spark at the sparkplugs, like DUB said.

Also, wire the electric choke to a newly-run wire to the fuse box....make sure the E-choke is fed by a fuse that receives 12 volts only when the key is turned to the ON position....this will prevent the electric choke from staying on constantly(even when the key is OFF), or in the ACC. mode...... when the E-choke is really not needed, causing the battery to run-down.

BKarol

And if you want to take it one step further, you can buy an oil pressure switch (ctr of pic). On this SB one wire attaches to the prong on the right and taped into the wiper wire. The other wire is from the choke to the prong on the left. IN this way, current will be fed only if there is oil pressure. So you can use acc or on and not worry about it.

DUB

Nice idea. That's using your 'noodle'.

DUB

Captain bob

Why not follow the original GM. Wiring diagram?? Take the original positive lead coming from the starter solenoid to the dizzy coil. Just fold back at both ends because it is a resistive wire. Replace with 12 gauge wire from solenoid to B+ on new tach drive HEI. Next ; the electric choke from the Holley needs a positive 12 volts on start only (key on 12 volt,key off 0 volt) this is exactly what is in the replacement harness with a dual feed connector just use one.

Captain bob

I just want to clarify the HEI wiring ; the OEM corvette starter solenoid has a yellow fabric coverd wire on same terminal as red wire .there is a purple wire on the other terminal ( don't touch) fold back yellow fabric wire and replace with 12 gauge stranded wire and retape harness to look OEM.the yellow wire supply's 8 volt to coil just fold this end back.there is also a white/red/ black wire on same terminal as that fabric yellow wire you folded back .this wire has a fuze link in it to protect ignition .conbine this white/red/ black wire to a #12 female spade connector along with that new wire you ran from solenoid to male spade on the side of HEI.walk away with a smile your baby is still wire the same as corvette engineers design it.never tap ANYTHING off ignition wiring! Be advised corvette engineers also put a fusible link in that white/red/black wire going to ignition switch this wire is tapped and sents power thru red wire to horn relay that is why we don't want to reinvent the corvette wiring schematic .this is the only way to wire a HEI in c-3 with OEM point dizzy.

DUB

Captain Bob,

I can usually follow the way someone does something...BUT you lost me on this. It is hard to tell if you are wiring in the choke or getting 12 volts to the HEI coil....or both.

I can not see how you are getting SWITCHED 12 volts of power to the distributor coil coming from the starter solenoid.

I still prefer to do it the way GM engineers designed it when the Corvettes came with an HEI from the factory. Coming off the bulk head connector.

I am sure you got it working...but your explanation (for me) is not coming across that way.

DUB

74modified

Captain Bob
I also am having a hard time following. On the points cars the power coming from the key switch is only hot in the on/run position. In the crank position the power has to come from the starter lead. That is why the points coil is fed from two directions.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/asset...ette/47935.jpg

Captain bob

Wow this is real bad for me . I am a retired Electrical engineer and I confused my brothers instead of helping! My post was in answer to the original post from " Hwcoop" whom installed a HEI distributor in a corvette that had a point distributor, so I am keeping the wiring the same as OEM just taking the resistor wire from solenoid to old coil and folding it away at both ends and replacing in same harness (retape ) a new wire to b+ terminal of new HEI along with existing fusible linked wire on coil together they are put in female spade that goes on to male spade of HEI ( b+). This would follow the exact wiring of the schematic however on later corvette's that came with HEI from factory power would come from bulkhead.this post has nothing to do with choke wiring other then a warning don't tap off HEI to supply power to choke.dub if you look at 68 up Vette with points this is factory wiring with points.

hwcoop

Thanks for the help guys!, I'll poke around tomorrow if i can get the garage warm -20c outside :-(

DUB

You either did not read what you wrote...or are seriously mistaken.

GM did not use resistance wires for an HEI....because they came out in 1975. I have not seen a 1973 or a 1974 with a factory HEI. Because GM did not have a cable driven tachometer HEI distributor....and 1973 and 1974 Corvettes had a cable driven tach. Electronic tachometers came out in 1975. PLEASE correct me if I am WRONG.

Also...there are NO fusible links in the resistance wire or at the coil....or used in any way for the coil wiring.

GM went to the large 12 gauge wire in 1975 and stuck with that until the HEI's got replaced with the Opti-spark distributor the LT-1 engines.

So it only seems logical to do it the way that was used for 17 years.

I agree to NOT use the HEI power wire for the choke.

I did...and I verified before making these comments. I know the system and know what GM did during the change...I just had to make sure....which is why I reply to do it like GM did it.....BECAUSE...ALL 1968-1974 points distributors have a 12 gauge wire coming from the ignition switch that changes to the resistance wire at the bulkhead....and the same 12 gauge wire is also used for the HEI cars...when GM did away with the resistance wire and went with the pink 12 gauge wire.

And yes...I KNOW that the 1969 wiring diagram in the assembly manual is INCORRECT when tracing the resistance wire back to the bulkhead connector. The drawing is WRONG and GM designers accidentally switched it with the temperature sender wire.....BECAUSE the resistance wire is going to the WRONG bulkhead connector ( the one for forward lamps and NOT ignition).

DUB

commander_47

I believe it is best to have the auto choke work on it's own circuit.

Why does the stereo run off the ACC?

Can't you run the stereo off the regular 20 amp radio circuit?

Then run the choke on the keyed ACC? That is what I do on my car.

jnb5101

Use the IGN stud to power the HEI and a relay mounted on the firewall or inner fender. Power the relay output contact from a fused wire from the horn relay, and use that to power the choke and any other accessories that might be added in the future. That way, the only current draw is the HEI and the relay coil, and the IGN fuse won't blow and kill the engine, even if something else shorts out.

Captain bob

"Hwcoop" whom installed a HEI distributor in a corvette that had a point distributor". Obviously this indicates he has a c-3 1968 to 1974 if he had a 1975 or newer it would have had a HEI.all of these years c-3 with points have 8 volts at positive side of coil so you just replace wire from starter solonoid with new wire and fold back old this also prevents BUBA from making a flying "T" splice on ign. wire from bulkhead.no more conversation on this beat horse!

hwcoop

I had the numbers matching 350 L82 with Point type tach drive distributer in for a while, during my restoration i added a pertronix unit and ran it off the "IGN" lead on the fuse block...no problems
Wanted more power and wanted to preserve the original 350 so i bagged it and dropped in a warmed over 454 using a new HEI Tach drive distributer and Quick Fuel 750 CFM carb with electric choke.. so now just working the kinks out and finishing things up

Thanks for all the great responses
Howard

MelWff

When you say fold back the wire, do you mean cut the wire that it no longer functions?

DUB

Head horse my backside....

I am TOTALLY AWARE of the 1968-1974 original ignition wiring configuration. I was just trying to understand where you were going due to your initial post was not making sense.

First off I do things correctly. So..splicing into the resistance wire that is in the bulkhead is something I WOULD NOT DO and comment on that the resistance wire is removed when I do these conversions....which is COMMON SENSE. And keeping in stride with what was done from the factory...any future mechanic can expect to find that 'things' are where they are ...because I have to fixed enough Corvettes when they have been completely brutalized by someone.

AND....answer me this???? If your idea...coming off the starter solenoid is so good...why did GM not do it???? When they had 17 years to do so.

IN MY OPINION....I do 'things' correctly and strive to challenge myself and not look for easier ways that even though they may work...but rather try to keep in stride with what GM did....if not implement improvements were used years later.

And if a person wants to use the IGN port in the fuse panel. I TRULY do not care what they do...all I am TRYING to do is tell 'those that MAY CARE' that they are using a FUSED terminal....so IF the fuse blows...their car dies.

Implementing the way that you outlined is all well in good if someone wants to do it. I am NOT writing NOT to do it YOUR WAY..to each his/her own.

DUB

DUB

More than likely...remove and literally fold it back inside the harness wrap area so it is hidden and protected....and can be used if in the future the car is returned to a points set-up.

DUB