700r4 fiddly bits
#41
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
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Hey! Good job----it's functional and stout........
How is the trans. rebuild progressing?
How is the trans. rebuild progressing?
#42
Team Owner
With regard to speedo accuracy.....believe nothing but a GPS all them tire size/dia. ratio, gear sites are RONG......don't ask how I know....
I was wildly over indicating by over 20% or more, by the tire sites....
got a GPS and am dead nutz on up to 80 mph.... after that the speedo tends to run some increasing % high for instance it says 100 mph, and the real speed is 94 mph.......methinks it's built that way on purpose.....
I was wildly over indicating by over 20% or more, by the tire sites....
got a GPS and am dead nutz on up to 80 mph.... after that the speedo tends to run some increasing % high for instance it says 100 mph, and the real speed is 94 mph.......methinks it's built that way on purpose.....
#43
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
by all the research i found, it places the mount within a 1/4" of the t400 mount.
guess i'll be the guinea pig that try's it
should have it back by the weekend, he's just been busy
never tell anyone that your not in a rush or do it as a fill in job....
#44
Nam Labrat
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Good to hear. Even if you have to move the crossmember, it's not a huge deal......or.....you could make an extension plate if necessary.....one end would bolt to the crossmember.....the other end bolts to the transmission rubberized mount.
#46
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
crawled under last night and started to pull things apart, then more questions arose....
where / how does the steering lockout re-connect? or is that part of the shiftworks kit?
how do the reverse lights opperate now?
there was a plug on the t400 for them originally.
do you put a switch inside on the shifter, or....?
i've only just started and it's doing my head in
this is going to be a pain in the a$$ doing it only 2feet off the ground, a hoist would be a lot easier.
where / how does the steering lockout re-connect? or is that part of the shiftworks kit?
how do the reverse lights opperate now?
there was a plug on the t400 for them originally.
do you put a switch inside on the shifter, or....?
i've only just started and it's doing my head in
this is going to be a pain in the a$$ doing it only 2feet off the ground, a hoist would be a lot easier.
#48
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks, forgot about the kickdown being electrical on the t400.
I guess another fancy bracket to be made then for the interlock cable.
I'm just not very motivated when I get home from work, things annoy me very quickly.....
Some tools even got thrown last night due to things not going as planned.
Took over an hour to get the exhaust off while laying on my back.
I guess another fancy bracket to be made then for the interlock cable.
I'm just not very motivated when I get home from work, things annoy me very quickly.....
Some tools even got thrown last night due to things not going as planned.
Took over an hour to get the exhaust off while laying on my back.
Last edited by riverracer au; 02-16-2015 at 08:34 PM.
#49
Le Mans Master
When things get like that, I try to remember it's a hobby, not a job. But I'm a mechanic on my job, when things go wrong there, I just remind myself that if it was easy, everyone would want to do it and it wouldn't pay well.
#50
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
still here, plodding along,
we've had a week of high 30*'s - low 40*'s (approx 100-105*f)
impossible to do any work in the shed, as it's even hotter in there.
have almost everything disconnected, hopefully drop it out thurs/fri night.
i bought the new oil lines from BTO,
but they are too short and i don't like the braided hoses they supply to connect to the radiator.
so more parts for the spares box....
i'll just reshape the originals
finally got the trans back from the rebuilder, had to have a lot of work done.
the hard parts were not hard anymore, so all replaced,
new bands, steels, vette servo, .500 boost valve, bush kit, mild stage 2 shift kit etc.
the supplied stock torque convertor was upgraded and reset to same as i have with my T400, to about 2800.
would have been cheaper to buy a new trans from BTO and have it shipped here....
looks like with rough measurements, that the mount holes will be about an inch out of position.
will know more when i can get them side by side for an accurate measure.
bit had to measure the T400 whilst sill connected up.
the replacement driveshaft i got hold of is a 2.5" and the old original was a 2-1/4"
had a quick look, might be a bit close to the sides and a couple protrusions in the tunnel.
more checking when the new trans is fitted and i measure the new length required.
we've had a week of high 30*'s - low 40*'s (approx 100-105*f)
impossible to do any work in the shed, as it's even hotter in there.
have almost everything disconnected, hopefully drop it out thurs/fri night.
i bought the new oil lines from BTO,
but they are too short and i don't like the braided hoses they supply to connect to the radiator.
so more parts for the spares box....
i'll just reshape the originals
finally got the trans back from the rebuilder, had to have a lot of work done.
the hard parts were not hard anymore, so all replaced,
new bands, steels, vette servo, .500 boost valve, bush kit, mild stage 2 shift kit etc.
the supplied stock torque convertor was upgraded and reset to same as i have with my T400, to about 2800.
would have been cheaper to buy a new trans from BTO and have it shipped here....
looks like with rough measurements, that the mount holes will be about an inch out of position.
will know more when i can get them side by side for an accurate measure.
bit had to measure the T400 whilst sill connected up.
the replacement driveshaft i got hold of is a 2.5" and the old original was a 2-1/4"
had a quick look, might be a bit close to the sides and a couple protrusions in the tunnel.
more checking when the new trans is fitted and i measure the new length required.
Last edited by riverracer au; 02-23-2015 at 05:09 AM.
#51
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
after wrestling the old one out, we went to lift the new t700/700r4 in,
and it fouls the passenger side of the tunnel.... , not sure if our t700 boxes are different to yours, or wider...
i think if i can remove this panel from the trans side of the tunnel, and glue it back on from the inside of the car,
there should then be enough clearance..
any ideas on how to remove it, hot air gun to soften the glue maybe???
and it fouls the passenger side of the tunnel.... , not sure if our t700 boxes are different to yours, or wider...
i think if i can remove this panel from the trans side of the tunnel, and glue it back on from the inside of the car,
there should then be enough clearance..
any ideas on how to remove it, hot air gun to soften the glue maybe???
#52
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
looked at a BB '69 today with a 700r4 fitted, and that fitted with clearance,
not much, maybe 1/2" at rear and almost 1/4" on servo area on the same patch.
his did have an aftermarket cross member.
mine, with the trans bolted to the engine, and the tail sitting on the mount, sitting on x member,
the yoke end needs to move across towards the passengers side by about 3/8" for the holes to be central.
but it cannot because it hits on the patch area...
i'm so lost why's mine fouling?
how much variation would there be in the tunnel area on these cars?
not much, maybe 1/2" at rear and almost 1/4" on servo area on the same patch.
his did have an aftermarket cross member.
mine, with the trans bolted to the engine, and the tail sitting on the mount, sitting on x member,
the yoke end needs to move across towards the passengers side by about 3/8" for the holes to be central.
but it cannot because it hits on the patch area...
i'm so lost why's mine fouling?
how much variation would there be in the tunnel area on these cars?
#55
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
mine had a t400 as well, the "bump" is shown in the last photo
thats's what it's hitting, the thicker flange around the outside of panel.
it's glued about 5/16" to 3/8" out from the main floor
thats's what it's hitting, the thicker flange around the outside of panel.
it's glued about 5/16" to 3/8" out from the main floor
Last edited by riverracer au; 02-28-2015 at 06:39 AM.
#56
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
think i may have found my problem (insert your joke here...)
my removable x-member is bent with 20mm (3/4") bow, hence the mount was sitting higher and why trans was hitting on the side.
so went over bro's and we straightened it with his Colorado's truck jack, and the weight of the vehicle as well.
a B.F.H. was used a couple of times also
looking closer it has a few dings on the bottom, i guess from being jacked underneath and not from the side.
will know morrow arvo when we try again to fit trans. :o
my removable x-member is bent with 20mm (3/4") bow, hence the mount was sitting higher and why trans was hitting on the side.
so went over bro's and we straightened it with his Colorado's truck jack, and the weight of the vehicle as well.
a B.F.H. was used a couple of times also
looking closer it has a few dings on the bottom, i guess from being jacked underneath and not from the side.
will know morrow arvo when we try again to fit trans. :o
Last edited by riverracer au; 02-28-2015 at 06:42 AM.
#57
Drifting
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Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
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The bracket that I made for the shorter tail shaft, mimicked the original 4 speed bracket and dropped the tranny mount 5/8ths in. below the top of the crossmember. If the longer tail shaft you chose to use lands on top of the crossmember, you may need to drop it even further than just getting it straight again.
Ultimately you may need to loosen the motor mounts to help position the rear of the trans on the proper centerline. You may also have to check the rear end pinion angle and the trans yoke angle to see where you actually need to be. It is the drive shaft angle that will ultimately determine the location of the tail of the trans. Too far out and it will definately vibrate when you get it back on the road.
Ultimately you may need to loosen the motor mounts to help position the rear of the trans on the proper centerline. You may also have to check the rear end pinion angle and the trans yoke angle to see where you actually need to be. It is the drive shaft angle that will ultimately determine the location of the tail of the trans. Too far out and it will definately vibrate when you get it back on the road.
#58
Nam Labrat
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You're doing a good job of identifying problems and finding solutions!
Take your time......or do it my way and do it thrice
C69Vette had a good idea about getting the correct angle on the driveshaft by, if necessary, bending the crossmember even more (or modifying the rubberized transmission mount---which is what I did on my '34 Ford truck 700R4 swap).
Take your time......or do it my way and do it thrice
C69Vette had a good idea about getting the correct angle on the driveshaft by, if necessary, bending the crossmember even more (or modifying the rubberized transmission mount---which is what I did on my '34 Ford truck 700R4 swap).
#59
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
well it fits with clearance on the side now that we have straightened the x-member.
didn't even cross my mind that it could be bent upward,
as you can see the mount distance is the same height with the new extension housing.
i'm going to machine about 5mm (3/16") off the bottom of the mount, just to clear a smige more around the uni joints and hand brake bracket.
T400 center distance
700r4 center distance using the tail housing mount
almost the same length as well, will still need to slot the x-member about 3/4" towards the rear.
and i have slotted the mount bout 1/4" to allow it to move forward on the mount pad until it meets the speedo boss.
didn't even cross my mind that it could be bent upward,
as you can see the mount distance is the same height with the new extension housing.
i'm going to machine about 5mm (3/16") off the bottom of the mount, just to clear a smige more around the uni joints and hand brake bracket.
T400 center distance
700r4 center distance using the tail housing mount
almost the same length as well, will still need to slot the x-member about 3/4" towards the rear.
and i have slotted the mount bout 1/4" to allow it to move forward on the mount pad until it meets the speedo boss.
Last edited by riverracer au; 03-01-2015 at 04:58 PM.
#60
Nam Labrat
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Good documentation for future for 700R4'ers!