Solid LT1

BJ if you want aluminum for cheap you have to go to the dark side....an LS2 bare block is $1125@Summit a LS3 about $150 more. Either block can withstand 500HP if naturally aspirated.....I bought my LS3 dry sump motor from Racing Junk for $5000 delivered but, now I'm in the build about $8.5K. Those LS blocks are practically " free " when you compare them to a GenI aluminum assembly, heads too....bare LS3 heads are under $300 for 320CFM of airflow, pretty hard to do that with a 23/18 degree GenI head.

Gale Banks 80'

For what ever it is worth I bought my GMPP Block on e-bay some 5-6 years ago for $2500 new in the Box. I figured I paid 1 k more than a new Iron Block. The person who sold it said that his Engine builder wouldn't use it because he wouldn't trust it compared to one of the other brands of blocks that he had used before. It was to be built for Sprint Car. When my Engine builder built it he said that it was the best Aluminum Block he had ever used, the first one that didn't need grinding and clearance work to make it work. The Block itself is not made by GM. If I remember correctly it was made by March Performance, possibly the same who make the Belt setup's ? I'm going to move the Car tomorrow, I can look if interested.

63mako

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DART-SBC-400-ALUMINUM-RACE-SERIES-ENGINE-BLOCK-chevy-gm-drag-car-hot-street-rod-/331439589617?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4d2b56c8f1&vxp=mtrI would rebush the lifter bores.

Bee Jay

Yes, I am interested.

Solid LT1

BJ be careful when shopping for a used GenI alloy block make sure about things like cam bearing type, cam location, deck height, main bearing size, bore centers, lifter bore diameter, bellhousing mount, oil pump requirements, fuel pump boss ( if your planning on running a mechanical pump ) and other things. There are many variations on the theme, the one in that Ebay auction has expensive requirements for lifters and camshaft type....sometimes it might be better to buy a new part with all the features you need. Dart aluminum blocks are reasonably priced as are Brodix, around $4500 for a new block....the Ebay one is $3500 but, then you have to buy expensive lifters or get lifter bores reworked.....around $400-500 a special expensive cam core for the 55mm needle bearing cam requirement, then think about how long a needle bearing cam might last in a street motor....suddenly a used bargin turns into an expensive nightmare! You might want to look on Racing Junk for parts but, buyer beware! Most alloy blocks were run in Sprint Cars and lead a hard life if they are for sale, it might be because they have been welded up and patched together too many times.

leadfoot4

Just for the point of reference, where are you located? Based on that, maybe we can steer you to a race shop that has something like that on hand, that maybe is no longer needed, due to a rule change or retirement from racing.

Way back when, when I was involved in oval tracking, there used to be a newspaper called 'The National Parts Peddler', that had all sorts of new/used/overstock performance parts that were for sale. It might still be published....

waljr

racing junk search

http://www.racingjunk.com/search?act...sPP=&sortBy=pl

Kid Vette

This one looks interesting!





For Sale: ALUMINUM BLOCK PRO series SBC- $2,199.99

Gale Banks 80'

SWARTZ MACHINE COMPANY is the Tag on the Block. The Tag is on the Drivers side Bellhousing area where we would expect the casting Number.
One thing of interest on these Blocks that is good to know is that they do not use a standard SBC Oil Pan Gasket. We all know that SBC's use a Thick or a Thin Pan Seal, but there is actually a 3rd Seal that is a Medium Thickness. It was used on some Blocks during the transition. I have a 1972 010 Block that uses it. Don't expect to run down to the local Auto Parts store and ask for the medium one. I do understand that the Oldsmobile Rocket Block uses the Medium and that's where to get it. This is on my to do list this winter. Last time I checked there wasn't a one piece Gasket available.

L88Plus

Shipped from California, right where it came off of the boat from China. Until it's proven worthy, I'd leave 'em alone.

leadfoot4

For a street engine, I think you'd have to do more than that. Take a close look, the block has "roller" cam bearings. That's a good thing for racing, but might require a $$$ camshaft....

Bee Jay

Hot Damn! Unless you guys think otherwise I'm going to take a chance and put $1000 down for a machined block. I have no problem with "Chinese" parts. It is World Products, I think a reputable company. I really wanted a complete short block. Maybe someone here, in Cali. hopefully, will be willing to assemble one for me. Gkul, my brother from another mother. Want to build an alloy 427?
Bee Jay

63mako

I seen that. Not a real big deal. 55MM roller bearing is pretty common. Different cam core is all. Rebushing the lifter bores is a bigger deal though. I would pass on that and the Chinese block. You want an aluminum block, spend the money and buy a new Brodix or Dart, 400 bore, 350 mains, raised cam bore if your building a 427. Do it right, do it once, NOT the place to cheap out.

Solid LT1

BJ! dont be a " beta tester " for a Chinese alloy engine block! Here is the guy off Racing Junk with some of the best pricing on alloy blocks

Link: http://www.raceengineparts.net/engin...-small-blocks/

63mako

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRODIX-SMALL...-/290976062993
350 main, 4.125 bore, raised cam, standard cam bearing for $4400 brand new Brodix is how I would go. I don't like small base circle cams.
can build a 427 with 4" stroke, standard 4.125 bore and standard base circle cam.

69427

Looks like some quality merchandise.
I am curious about the 112# weight stated for one of the blocks. That's two pounds more than my BB block.

Kid Vette

Here's the info on the seller: murray Member Since: 12/31/2002

He's been on racingjunk.com for 12 years. I'd give him a call.

63mako

Do not believe this is a World block, ask. Price seems to good to be true.

Solid LT1

Its a " World Block " as in.....made on the other side of the world, ....also they mention needs machining for $500 additional charge....I say give me a list of present users I can talk with about your great product.....to verify if it is actually a great product.

Here is what I know as a World block made by Bill Mitchell, looks nothing like the block in the RJ ad

Link: http://www.theengineshop.com/product...num-block.html

jim2527

Is there such a thing as a lightweight steel block?

Edit: I see Dart makes a 175# iron block