park brake adjustment
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
park brake adjustment
I've seen the Van Steel video but he doesn't go as far as doing the actual adjustment.
1. Does it matter which way or side the star adjusters go on? Normal GM drums they have lh & rh threads & have to hit the spring in a certain way.
2. Bought car disassembled - so I didn't see it at teardown - park cable is loose at attachment point of lever - is it normal to pinch it tighter so it won't fall out?
3. I see you tighten shoes until wheel won't turn then back off 8-12 teeth. Should they be totally free or still lightly dragging at that point? That's not much more than 1 full turn of the adjuster.
4. Got a hair of runout, on the drum surface not the rotor surface so I've got audible drag at one spot only. Is that a big deal?
Thanks for any tips!
1. Does it matter which way or side the star adjusters go on? Normal GM drums they have lh & rh threads & have to hit the spring in a certain way.
2. Bought car disassembled - so I didn't see it at teardown - park cable is loose at attachment point of lever - is it normal to pinch it tighter so it won't fall out?
3. I see you tighten shoes until wheel won't turn then back off 8-12 teeth. Should they be totally free or still lightly dragging at that point? That's not much more than 1 full turn of the adjuster.
4. Got a hair of runout, on the drum surface not the rotor surface so I've got audible drag at one spot only. Is that a big deal?
Thanks for any tips!
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
I might be missing some parts. I bought the stainless hardware kit and I don't see the little parts where the diagram says "u clip" bend w/ pliers or the curved spring washer. I have just the 2 pc lever.
And, of course, Murphys law is in full effect. I put both star adjusters in backwards.
And, of course, Murphys law is in full effect. I put both star adjusters in backwards.
#4
Race Director
Often times some companies will give you the lever already assembled....because it is easy to install when the spindle is out.
If the spindle is NOT out...the it will need to be assembled and that can be a bit of fun at times.
Also..I always check to make sure that my new 'cross-over' park brake cable will CORRECTLY fit in the curved end if this lever and not want o 'pop-out' due to the curved bend was poorly made....and then I have to go over to the vise and compress it correct.
Hopefully you have a good 'crossover' cable with the original design woven steel spring sleeve...instead of one that has the black sleeve. The cable with the black sleeve can fail much faster and in my opinion are CRAP.
IF you have new shoes...I would keep the adjustment with a bit of drag...because you need to burnish the pads as the manual states...and doing so...this will possibly aid you in not having to go back in and mess with the adjusters and only have to go under the car to adjust the cable for the correct grip of the parking brake when the handle is pulled to the 14th click. I have done so many over the years I can go by feel.
ALSO...when setting your adjusters...make sure your rotor is FLUSH against the spindle ...so have all lug nuts on and snugged well. Because a rotor that is crooked...is pointless.
And the spring on your cross-over parking brake cable goes BETWEEN the LEVER you are working on and the WHITE PLASTIC U CLIP in the trailing arm that guides the cable. I have worked on so many that are wrong...I thought I would mention it.
DUB
If the spindle is NOT out...the it will need to be assembled and that can be a bit of fun at times.
Also..I always check to make sure that my new 'cross-over' park brake cable will CORRECTLY fit in the curved end if this lever and not want o 'pop-out' due to the curved bend was poorly made....and then I have to go over to the vise and compress it correct.
Hopefully you have a good 'crossover' cable with the original design woven steel spring sleeve...instead of one that has the black sleeve. The cable with the black sleeve can fail much faster and in my opinion are CRAP.
IF you have new shoes...I would keep the adjustment with a bit of drag...because you need to burnish the pads as the manual states...and doing so...this will possibly aid you in not having to go back in and mess with the adjusters and only have to go under the car to adjust the cable for the correct grip of the parking brake when the handle is pulled to the 14th click. I have done so many over the years I can go by feel.
ALSO...when setting your adjusters...make sure your rotor is FLUSH against the spindle ...so have all lug nuts on and snugged well. Because a rotor that is crooked...is pointless.
And the spring on your cross-over parking brake cable goes BETWEEN the LEVER you are working on and the WHITE PLASTIC U CLIP in the trailing arm that guides the cable. I have worked on so many that are wrong...I thought I would mention it.
DUB
#5
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Factory adjustment instructions can be uploaded at this link... and pay attention to the burnishing procedure listed at the bottom of the page. You don't do this, the parking brakes will be pretty weak.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=25
Click on supporting document.
Willcox
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=25
Click on supporting document.
Willcox
#6
Race Director
Factory adjustment instructions can be uploaded at this link... and pay attention to the burnishing procedure listed at the bottom of the page. You don't do this, the parking brakes will be pretty weak.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=25
Click on supporting document.
Willcox
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=25
Click on supporting document.
Willcox
I'm not disagreeing this should be done but I can't believe they did this to all the cars.
#7
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Gordon.. as far as I know, yes, this was done on the dyno right before leaving the final assembly line... but the best bet would be to ask John Hinckley for verification, I get a chance I'll send him an email, I'm sure he'll know.
I'll tell you from my own experience, they seem to hold way better when you do this vs. when not.
I'll tell you from my own experience, they seem to hold way better when you do this vs. when not.
#9
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I just re-read the aim instructions and it states, with car on roll test rolls... so yeah, this was done at the end of the line.
#10
Melting Slicks
Here is what I used....
Here is what I used to replace my parking brakes:
http://www.rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html
The parking brakes worked great until I accidently left them engaged and took off. Ha, ha! pretty wimpy parking brakes I think. IMHO, you do not have to worry about anything dragging. After doing this job, I also concluded that med schools use this job to train brain surgeons!
Hope this helps.
http://www.rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html
The parking brakes worked great until I accidently left them engaged and took off. Ha, ha! pretty wimpy parking brakes I think. IMHO, you do not have to worry about anything dragging. After doing this job, I also concluded that med schools use this job to train brain surgeons!
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 20mercury; 01-30-2015 at 10:52 AM.