68' rear noise, metal shavings
02-07-2015, 04:40 PM
#1
68' rear noise, metal shavings
Just pulled right rear wheel off and noticed fine metal flecks on inside of wheel and along trailing arm etc. have been noticing a rubbing ,scraping sound coming from the rear of car lately. Bearing problem? any other possibilities?
Assuming its a wheel bearing is it a difficult do it yourself repair job?
Assuming its a wheel bearing is it a difficult do it yourself repair job?
02-07-2015, 05:17 PM
#2
I assume you have looked at the brake pads and they show no sign of being worn out? With the wheel on and grabbing the tire do you have noticeable play in the actual wheel bearing, as opposed to the trailing arm or in out play on the half shaft?
02-08-2015, 12:41 PM
#3
Everything feels tight with no in/out play noticed when I yank on the wheel. No play in half shaft. Brake pads are relatively new so I dont see them being the problem. There is a slight click on the initial movement when I rotate the wheel either direction but the opposite wheel does the same thing which sounds more like the brake pads shifting or the differential/half shaft initialing movement.
02-21-2015, 11:29 AM
#4
Any other thoughts on this before I consider replacing the whole wheel hub /trailing arm bearing assembly?
Everything feels tight with no in/out play noticed when I yank on the wheel. No play in half shaft. Brake pads are relatively new so I dont see them being the problem. There is a slight click on the initial movement when I rotate the wheel either direction but the opposite wheel does the same thing which sounds more like the brake pads shifting or the differential/half shaft initialing movement.
02-21-2015, 12:35 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Bearings
The bearings can be a DYI project if you have the necessary tools. There is a very nice step by step thread on how to do the job. Use the search function. I have replaced about a half dozen sets in my cars and for friends. It is much easier to send them out to Van Steel or Bairs to have them rebuilt. Do both sides and unless already done, consider replacing the U joints. It's one of those "while I'm at it". Jerry
02-22-2015, 12:47 PM
#7
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Gregg,
You neglected to tell us if your running stock wheels/rims?
A very minute possibility your inner rim is scraping the e-brake
cable brkt on the trailing arm.
I'd think bearing shavings would fall out to the ground.
Shavings on topside of trailing arm would lead me to check for some type of metal on metal above the trailing arm first.
If you pulled on the wheel at the 12 & 6 position and no apparent play I'd suspect something else.
I had an e-brake spring retaining pin scraping on the backside of the rotor.
It was bent slightly. I strightened it and no problem after that.
Hope this helps.
Marshal
You neglected to tell us if your running stock wheels/rims?
A very minute possibility your inner rim is scraping the e-brake
cable brkt on the trailing arm.
I'd think bearing shavings would fall out to the ground.
Shavings on topside of trailing arm would lead me to check for some type of metal on metal above the trailing arm first.
If you pulled on the wheel at the 12 & 6 position and no apparent play I'd suspect something else.
I had an e-brake spring retaining pin scraping on the backside of the rotor.
It was bent slightly. I strightened it and no problem after that.
Hope this helps.
Marshal
02-22-2015, 07:28 PM
#8
I need to try again pulling the wheel at the 6 and 12 position as you suggest. Good thought about the filing dropping to the ground rather than ending up on top of the trailing arm. I 'll need to pull the wheel off again and try to take a closer look around. The wheels are stock.
also was wondering if its possible that the emergency brake shoe could be rubbing. Never have replaced them. they dont hold anymore so i dont apply them.
also was wondering if its possible that the emergency brake shoe could be rubbing. Never have replaced them. they dont hold anymore so i dont apply them.
Gregg,
You neglected to tell us if your running stock wheels/rims?
A very minute possibility your inner rim is scraping the e-brake
cable brkt on the trailing arm.
I'd think bearing shavings would fall out to the ground.
Shavings on topside of trailing arm would lead me to check for some type of metal on metal above the trailing arm first.
If you pulled on the wheel at the 12 & 6 position and no apparent play I'd suspect something else.
I had an e-brake spring retaining pin scraping on the backside of the rotor.
It was bent slightly. I strightened it and no problem after that.
Hope this helps.
Marshal
You neglected to tell us if your running stock wheels/rims?
A very minute possibility your inner rim is scraping the e-brake
cable brkt on the trailing arm.
I'd think bearing shavings would fall out to the ground.
Shavings on topside of trailing arm would lead me to check for some type of metal on metal above the trailing arm first.
If you pulled on the wheel at the 12 & 6 position and no apparent play I'd suspect something else.
I had an e-brake spring retaining pin scraping on the backside of the rotor.
It was bent slightly. I strightened it and no problem after that.
Hope this helps.
Marshal
Last edited by greggome; 02-22-2015 at 07:31 PM.
02-24-2015, 10:25 PM
#9
Still have not found anything visibly rubbing so I'm preparing to remove the wheel bearing assembly. Any suggestions from those who have been there on how to get those 4 nuts off the half shaft outer flange? I have spread the french lock tabs but I cant seem to get a snug fit with the 5/8 socket as the flange body curves in a little and doesn't allow the socket to seat fully down. The nuts are on so tight I'm afraid I'll end up rounding off the nut.
The bearings can be a DYI project if you have the necessary tools. There is a very nice step by step thread on how to do the job. Use the search function. I have replaced about a half dozen sets in my cars and for friends. It is much easier to send them out to Van Steel or Bairs to have them rebuilt. Do both sides and unless already done, consider replacing the U joints. It's one of those "while I'm at it". Jerry
Last edited by greggome; 02-24-2015 at 10:29 PM.
02-25-2015, 05:51 PM
#10
Still have not found anything visibly rubbing so I'm preparing to remove the wheel bearing assembly. Any suggestions from those who have been there on how to get those 4 nuts off the half shaft outer flange? I have spread the french lock tabs but I cant seem to get a snug fit with the 5/8 socket as the flange body curves in a little and doesn't allow the socket to seat fully down. The nuts are on so tight I'm afraid I'll end up rounding off the nut.
02-25-2015, 10:17 PM
#11
Still seems odd to have metal filings appearing from a bad wheel bearing especially since all seems tight with no play noticed. I have the riveted rotor on so I cant get a look at the E brake shoe and hardware to see if thats the cause. Thought I might start there before jumping into a wheel bearing repair. Any suggestion on drilling out the rivets? Thought I read somewhere that taking the rivets out and removing the rotor could effect runout when reinstalled without the rivets holding the hub in place.
Use a deep well socket. I jack up both sides of rear end and put car in neutral so I can spin wheel a little to gain access to all bolts. Make sure to chock front wheels.i just removed both trailing arms in the past two weeks for bearing replacement. I found all kinds of broke/wore out parts.
02-26-2015, 04:41 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Still seems odd to have metal filings appearing from a bad wheel bearing especially since all seems tight with no play noticed. I have the riveted rotor on so I cant get a look at the E brake shoe and hardware to see if thats the cause. Thought I might start there before jumping into a wheel bearing repair. Any suggestion on drilling out the rivets? Thought I read somewhere that taking the rivets out and removing the rotor could effect runout when reinstalled without the rivets holding the hub in place.
02-28-2015, 08:06 PM
#13
Okay, drilled out the rivet heads and have been hammering away on the rivet studs with a 1/4" punch with no success. they are in so tight I cant imagine they would ever come loose on their own so I figure i can leave them in without worry about them coming out.
The lower PB spring appears to be the culprit as it was hanging loose on one end where it was worn thin and shiny at the hook. Sure beats pulling the whole hub to replace wheel bearings as originally suspected. Any tips on replacing the PB shoes and hardware?
The lower PB spring appears to be the culprit as it was hanging loose on one end where it was worn thin and shiny at the hook. Sure beats pulling the whole hub to replace wheel bearings as originally suspected. Any tips on replacing the PB shoes and hardware?
Last edited by greggome; 03-01-2015 at 12:11 AM.
03-05-2015, 08:56 PM
#14
oil change?
While I'm undertaking the PB repair I have a clear view of the rear diff. plug. The car has never had a fluid change. Wondering if its a good time to drain and put new fluid in BUT if it aint broke dont fix it comes to mind. Any thoughts on this. Also i understand you need to do figure 8's after a change for the posi unit. cant think of anywhere local that i have enough space to pull that off.
Okay, drilled out the rivet heads and have been hammering away on the rivet studs with a 1/4" punch with no success. they are in so tight I cant imagine they would ever come loose on their own so I figure i can leave them in without worry about them coming out.
The lower PB spring appears to be the culprit as it was hanging loose on one end where it was worn thin and shiny at the hook. Sure beats pulling the whole hub to replace wheel bearings as originally suspected. Any tips on replacing the PB shoes and hardware?
The lower PB spring appears to be the culprit as it was hanging loose on one end where it was worn thin and shiny at the hook. Sure beats pulling the whole hub to replace wheel bearings as originally suspected. Any tips on replacing the PB shoes and hardware?