hugh9222

1982 FUEL PUMP/GAGE SENDING UNIT (PGU) REMOVAL
After being told that you can remove the PGU without dropping the tank I spent some 3 or 4 hours over several days manipulating the unit to no avail. Having had to drop the tank twice before (once to remove varnish and replace the PGU and once to replace the tank itself) I stupidly dropped it again. DON’T DO THAT!! It is a major waste of time and energy.
With the tank filler hole slightly forward of the deck access hole and the tight working space it is hard to see how the PGU could come out without removing the tank. The reason I failed in my initial attempts to remove the PGU I was attempting to lift it straight up and out. Enough of my drama!!
Here is how I now do it and it takes me less the 5 minutes once all the attachments are removed:
1. Remove the gas access cover—4 black Philips screws. Lift out the entire cover assembly.
Note: I taped the deck access opening so as not to scratch or ding the paint.
2. Lift out the ‘rubber catch cup’. Remove the drain hose from cup.
3. Disconnect the three wire electrical connection. Just for information the wire codes are:
Tan—fuel pump
Orange—sending unit
Black--ground
4. A. If you’re thinking of saving the rubber hoses that connect to the PGU loosen the clamps (1/4” bolt head) on the hoses connected to the PGU. Two hoses on the right (3 o’clock position) and one hose on the left (@9 o’clock). Go the #5.
B. I was not saving the hoses so I just CUT them.
5. Remove the eight (8) 11 mm bolts holding the PGU.
6. Pry the PGU up from the tank so it can be twisted easily. (Figure on replacing the gasket between the PGU and tank. Mine was about 7 years old and shrunk considerably.)
7. If you’re attempting to save the hoses and with the PGU loose you can twist to help pull the hose free of the PGU.
8. ROTATE the PGU counter-clock wise approximately 120 degrees. I used the two hose connectors on the right side (@ 3 o’clock as my reference. They ended up between the 10 and 11 o’clock position.
9. With the PGU flat against the tank lift the lower-right side (4:30 position) of the PGU UPWARD.
10. Keeping the PGU tilted, twist and slowly lift the PGU as it clears the tank opening. Don’t force it, simply walk it out.
You have now finished the easy part. Install the PGU in a reverse sequence. I think it best to install the 3 hoses first while you can still twist the PGU. I had a hell-of-a-time getting the 11 mm bolts back in. Getting the hose in place and the clamp tight was about as much fun.
Yes, you can remove the ‘Sending Unit’ out of a 1982 Corvette fuel tank without removing the tank!! I hope this will help someone down the road.
A note of thanks to the forum members that responded to my initial inquiry, particularly ‘DUB’.
Hugh

DUB

AWESOME....I can appreciate your dedication to getting it out and NOT writing it can not be done...when I know it can...because I have done it numerous times.

Gotta LOVE it when a PLAN comes together.

DUB

TDS00PET

Got your info on replacing fuel pump, you make it sound easy. One concern I have is if I reuse the hoses or replace, how hard is it, I'm assuming they have flexibility. Also were their any videos on this anywhere.

74 LS4-454

If replacing the pump, do not reuse the hoses. Use new "Fuel Rated" hoses, as regular hose will get eaten away from sitting in the fuel in a very short time.

Also adding this thread to the "sticky".

DEUTERON

Read your instructions and like you said, with a little care and patience I got the old sending unit/pump removed. Changing the fuel hoses was harder than I thought. Someone changed them before and used 1/4 screw type clamps. I have no idea how they managed to set the clamp and tighten it at the fuel line end. Does any manufacturer supply a forward facing type hose clamp. I don't have much confidence in spring clamps. Secondly, I installed a new gasket one full day before attempting to install the new unit. Putting the new unit in was harder than taking the old one out. Fearing damaging the new unit, I elected to buff down the catch cup lips (not all the way off) making it easier to slip the new unit in.
That's allot easier. After bolting every thing back up I used Koppers 788 splash zone compound and re-constructed the catch cup lips, installed the catch cup and access lid and it looks perfect.

JC82

Like many here, my 82 gas gauge reads a quarter tank all the time even when full. I've replaced the fuel sending unit to no avail and finally ripped the center console out and replaced the gauge but no cigar! With power on and if I disconnect the connecter from the sending unit the gauge goes past full. The last time I pulled the new sender out to inspect it, I ran my arm around the gas tank to insure there was nothing obstructing the float arm and as I rotate the arm thru the arc the gauge moves up and down normally. Once back in the tank it again reverts to a quarter tank. Any ideas?

Hardware95

Hello everyone! I am new to C3s and to this forum. Maybe you guys can help me out.
I just replaced the fuel pump and sending unit on my 82, and the hoses on the right side are pretty rigid. I looked at how to replace them, and it appears that the tank must be dropped to do this. Has anyone done this job, and do you have any advice?
Thanks!

MarkJuen

Float flooded?

L-46man

Check or renew the grounds.

Buccaneer

You do not have to drop the tank to replace the hoses, but it is a PITA though. It's a good idea to replace the hoses anyway so that they don't cause you any issues down the road with fuel since they crack over time. Make sure you replace them with the proper fuel line hose and not just any rubber hose. This is obviously a five year old thread, but for anyone that is going to attempt replacing their pump or sender, it can be done by going through the top of the tank without dropping it. However...with that said, I have run across one 82 that it could not be done through the top. It looked like the tank had been out of the car at some time and when reinstalled they did not get the tank lined up properly with the hole in the body and was off just a hair so that the sender would not come out no matter what. BTW, it's a turning, twisting maneuvering act to get it out of the hole and you have to do remember that technique to get it back in in reverse. Good luck.